The Ship Model Forum

by **Devin** » Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:44 am

One thing I learned recently about EZ line is that it's fibrous. You can snap it, it frays, and you can pull out individual, much smaller pieces. I'm going to give it a try on my next project.

by **Rob-UK** » Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:20 pm

I've tried all sorts, and ended up settling with stretched sprue (using the reliable Jim Bauman method of production), attached with PVA.

by **biggles2** » Sun Jun 22, 2014 12:33 pm

I started with stretched sprue and wasn't happy so I tried different kinds of light fishing line, then UNI Caenis (which I can't even see!), then EZ Line which is way too big in 1/700 anyway, and even fine brass wire, now I'm using stretched sprue again, this time more successfully.

by **EJFoeth** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:39 pm

Err yes, that was what I meant, sorry

by **Akula** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:35 pm

HLJ is a joke these days.

All I see is Modelkasten wire, no Gakken ?????

Bob

by **EJFoeth** » Mon Jun 16, 2014 2:23 am

After a tip on the MW forum, I bought some Gakken rigging wire from Hobby Link Japan and that works quite well. It's metal rigging that is tensionless and can be cut to size. Nice when you expect that rigging tension might be a problem, in my case rigging fixed to PE fixed to brass and stainless steel. I also intend to use it for funnel stays but not for rigging the derrick (need something more flexible to go around the pulleys); not sure what I will use there.

mainmast_09.jpg

(Note: I find HLJ new order system absolutely awful and will try not to buy anything from them)

by **blacman** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 11:57 pm

Pagodaphile wrote:
blacman wrote:Very fine wire is also nice working option. I'm using 0.05mm wire for 1/700 and 0.1mm for 1/350. It gives you opportunity to have straight riggings without any tensions. Another benefit is that once completed - strengthens structurally riggings and masts
I see the advantages you mention however.....how do you join your wire together without accumulating adhesive residue at the joints ? (the area in which sprue shines, since there is no buildup)

I startet rigging from main rig. Then I installing all other like halyards, antenas etc upway: first I make fixation point down (hull or superstructure) by CA glue and I'm finding second fixation point on main rig. Then use fine liquid CA glue : apply in potential fixation point small portion CA - by sharp toothstick and join two wires. After a while I touch once more very sharp toothstick with CA the join from opposite side to apply a bit more glue.
IJN Takao, 1/350:

iJN Kako 1/700

Greetings
Greg

by **sargentx** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 4:44 pm

hahah!
I use Nag Champa. I like the smell : )

Seriously though, it's so nice to be able to see the smoke stream to target the line you want to tighten.

by **biggles2** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 3:39 pm

What kind of incense does it work best with? Sandalwood? Last time I had to burn incense was in the '60's

by **sargentx** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:46 pm

I like to use a variety of things depending on the situation. I've had great experiences with the hairs from a straight black wig I bought at a Halloween store. It shrinks and tightens with incense, but is less prone to breakage due to the heat. It looks like sprue and is quite fine. It's like fatter caenis.

by **biggles2** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 10:26 am

EZ Line is great! However... when you look really closely at it, it is ribbon-like. It's sort of flat. And that really becomes apparent when you paint it ( silver, as for wire cable - light reflection reveals where it is flat, and where it is not). If the company could make it as a monofilament fiber it would be perfect.

by **Pagodaphile** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 3:22 am

blacman wrote:Very fine wire is also nice working option. I'm using 0.05mm wire for 1/700 and 0.1mm for 1/350. It gives you opportunity to have straight riggings without any tensions. Another benefit is that once completed - strengthens structurally riggings and masts

I see the advantages you mention however.....how do you join your wire together without accumulating adhesive residue at the joints ? (the area in which sprue shines, since there is no buildup)

by **blacman** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:40 am

Very fine wire is also nice working option. I'm using 0.05mm wire for 1/700 and 0.1mm for 1/350. It gives you opportunity to have straight riggings without any tensions. Another benefit is that once completed - strengthens structurally riggings and masts

by **PetrolGator** » Tue Jun 10, 2014 10:28 am

Timmy C wrote:There are plenty of existing alternatives to stretched sprue, such as fly fishing lines (thinnest of which is UNI Caenis) or EZ line. While fibre optic lines may work, their transparent nature means they can appear extra thick if the light is shining through them.

JMO, EZ line looks wrong in 1/700 and almost so in 1/350. Caenis is a good alternative if you can find good, tacky glue that won't from nasty little clots like CA glue.

by **Timmy C** » Mon Jun 09, 2014 4:56 pm

There are plenty of existing alternatives to stretched sprue, such as fly fishing lines (thinnest of which is UNI Caenis) or EZ line. While fibre optic lines may work, their transparent nature means they can appear extra thick if the light is shining through them.

by **Akula** » Mon Jun 09, 2014 3:26 pm

Has anyone tried surplus fiber optic strands.
I see there is stuff on the web that is cheap.
I think .0035" diameter strands would be less of a headache than the plastic spru method.
At least you would have absolutely consistent diameter "optical strands" vs the lumpy plastic stretching method.

Crawling back under my rock now.....

Bob

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