The Ship Model Forum

by **Fliger747** » Tue Feb 01, 2022 2:47 pm

I guess the owners could "tumblehome" with the extra profits!

Tom

by **JIM BAUMANN** » Tue Feb 01, 2022 1:23 pm

I don't want to hjack Icemans thread...
but here goes !

so in brief--yes--its a' turret ship '--narrower on deck than at waterline...
the plan was that as Suez and panama canal charges were based on
max beam AT DECK-- they could get away with greater payloads, cheaper charges and a lower metacentric height pro rata --- a great many ships of this type were built- many in the UK -mainly by Droxford and sons

read more here with additional images and fore / aft views
in my build article --here at MW.com
http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... index.html

#
end of Iceman thread hijack.!

by **mikegr** » Tue Feb 01, 2022 5:32 am

superb job!

by **JIM BAUMANN** » Tue Feb 01, 2022 1:50 am

That was quite a workout for the helmsman ! !!

I love it when ships are going along riding light--
the propellor-on-the-surface thrash always looks amazing !

by **Fliger747** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 8:49 pm

Yes, interesting clip! Yes, the pilot house wheel was of the civilian wooden spoked type and the one on the flying bridge steel spoked like the one's on the Woban upper deck.

Not having a complete sampling, but generally warships tended to have the steel disc wheels and maritime or civilian yard constructed seem to differ. What I wonder is if the civilian built Escort Carriers had spoked or disc wheels?

Always something new.

by **BB62vet** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 4:38 pm

Pascal,

Quite an interesting short film on the T-2's built by Marinship. Thanks for posting the link. One detail I picked up was that the tanker had a wooden wheel. Many of the USN warships of that period had a wood rimmed wheel - the inside a flat steel disc. This was the case for FLETCHER Class DDs as well as many of the larger warships (Cruisers, Battleships).

Hank

by **Iceman 29** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 4:15 pm

An interesting little color film about the T2 post-construction trials, which I had missed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDZajESVXZo

by **Iceman 29** » Mon Jan 10, 2022 4:13 am

No, too big!

by **JIM BAUMANN** » Mon Jan 10, 2022 2:29 am

Most excellent works and soooo much ( hidden ) detail!!!

Does the T 2 live under a glass whilst you are nit working ion it?
==> dust is the enemy!

JB

by **Iceman 29** » Sun Jan 09, 2022 7:15 pm

Tks!

Pamanset, and Hornet, both 1:200 scale.

paste.

by **JIM BAUMANN** » Fri Dec 18, 2020 5:36 pm

OK-- I am very very impressed !

what a lot of effort, cleverness and patience that has gone into this so far

its innovative, clean and very very interesting!

Bravo

JIM B

by **Iceman 29** » Sun Nov 08, 2020 3:24 am

I bought a special machine to clean the parts and to pass them to the UV to harden them definitively.

The quality of the liquid resins has improved a lot in the last few years. Our parts are generally painted and therefore protected from UV rays that could destroy them over time.

https://all3dp.com/2/sla-3d-printing-ho ... -is-resin/

I clean mine with isopropyl alcohol (IPA), we can finish the cleaning with water or do it completely with water.

Then we expose the piece to UV for a few minutes to harden it. It doesn't look anything like polystyrene. It is a hard plastic, a technique also used by dentists to make temporary teeth.

The cleaning device from Anycubic, very practical and safe. It's on special offer at the moment:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmJNf5RKKAQ

by **Fliger747** » Sat Nov 07, 2020 11:43 pm

I am a novice, but yes, the whole process is important. The SLA process which uses a resin in a vat is cured by UV, I use a 400+ nm Grow lamp, there are special curing cabinets etc. Perhaps Pascal will comment! Depending on the resin, it is first washed in ISP (Alcohol) and then water. Some resins can be washed in water, dried and thne UV cured. I cannot currently testify as to the archival properties. I know for instance that models with Strtathmore Papers have held up well for some 60 years so far.

With your 3D skills I expect you would be very successful with this!

Tom

by **DrPR** » Sat Nov 07, 2020 11:24 pm

One concern I have is the fragility of 3D printed pieces. A friend created a 1:32 quad 40mm Bofors gun a number of years ago, with every bit of detail shown in the blueprints. It was printed at the highest resolution available at the time. The details came out very nice, but the gun barrels sagged. It was unusable.

Is there a post printing curing process?

How does the strength of the printed material compare to polystyrene?

Phil

by **Fliger747** » Sat Nov 07, 2020 10:48 pm

The mike is out in the shop, but the ream of paper in the office (500 sheets) is about 1" thick, or 2 thou per sheet. The Strathmore that I like to make stuff out of is substantially thicker. The SLA printers are pretty smooth, somewhat compensated for by substantial messiness in the whole process. I think Pascal is spot on with his estimate that it takes about a month of printing (pretty continuously) to stabilize your process to some degree of reliability. It's a slow process, the main reason that commercial items are relatively expensive is that the printers plug away for extended periods to produce an item. Time is money.

I consider myself an OK scratch builder (not the best) but can print items that it would not be possible to achieve with traditional methods.

by **DrPR** » Sat Nov 07, 2020 2:27 am

Pascal,

If I read the settings correctly, you are printing with a layer thickness of 0.02 mm (0.000787 inch). Is this correct?

For comparison, an ordinary sheet of printer paper (20 lb.) is 0.09 mm (0.0035 inch). So each layer is about 1/4 the thickness of a sheet of paper. No wonder you are getting very smooth surfaces!

For comparison the diameter of human hair varies from 0.017 to 0.18 millimeters (0.00067 to 0.00709 in).

****

I had pretty much given up on 3D printers because the affordable machines produced very coarse resolution with rough surfaces and lots of "jaggies." But I see the Phrozen Sonik mini 4K sells for US$359.00! I think I know what my Christmas present will be!

Phil

by **Iceman 29** » Fri Nov 06, 2020 2:47 pm

It took me a bit long to print this part as it allowed me to calibrate the new Sonik 4K printer with the Elegoo resin I use.

So I was able to compare the Mono X which has nothing to envy to the Phrozen Sonik mini 4K, I will do a new test with the Phrozen resin later.

Here is the result at 1/72 for this small 13.2 quadruple mount which is only 24mm.

At this scale the details are clear. It's quite successful. I would make a 1/48 test.

The placement of the support pylons was tricky because there are many of them and the shapes are complex.

I still have some cleaning to do.

My setting for the Phrozen Sonik Mini 4K 3D printer for Elegoo grey resin:

by **Fliger747** » Thu Nov 05, 2020 1:53 pm

Yes, the 5" 38 open mount is very complicated. To make one by hand as I did for APA requires much greater simplification! I still haven't made the spray cover for the training mechanism. There are some good Mx manuals for 5" 38 closed mounts, which show at least the parts in some detail, which for the gun and basic carriage and machinery will remain mostly the same. For 1:200 this is a fairly small and complex item! I did print successfully yesterday several inclined ladders that my 1:192 Missouri is lacking. Since the ABS resin I am using is fairly flexible, they seem durable enough. They seemed too small to easily make from paper as I did the ones on the APA.

Cheers: Tom

by **Iceman 29** » Thu Nov 05, 2020 12:26 pm

That's it, this cannon is finished.

Just have to make a test print at 1/72,� then at 1/48 for me. It will join my collection at 1/48.

I still have a 5 inches to make for my T2 tanker, a gun also quite complicated... I'll have to simplify it.

13.2 mm quad mount / Hotchkiss machine guns:

Transparent background.

On the salt lake! �

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1/200 USS Pamanset (AO-85) Tanker T2-SE-A2

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