edited by ddp

[Mgunns]

I saw this posted somewhere else that I don't recall. Glad to see here it in an easy access format. This is going to be neat to see as you use that old "Chestnut" of a kit to kitbash these others. Who would have thought?

[Chuck Bauer]

Hi David,
The photos posted well and are very revealing.
This should be fun to watch as it unfolds.
I'm guessing a lot of people out there (including me) are very familiar with this kit and look forward to seeing all the permutations.

Dumb question, though. I know what "BB's" are but what are "OBB's"?

[Aop Aur]

Nice to see some of your builds finally! They look really good! I look forward to seeing more!

Aop

[Vlad]

That is fantastic, huge respect to you sir for undertaking such big modifications on kits. I will be watching the buildup of this collection unfold!

[PetrolGator]

Hooboy. You're insane in all the most wonderful modeling ways. I love this! Great work, David!

[warspite63]

This is a great project - inspired ....and possibly a bit insane - I love it! It certainly highlights the evolutionary process of the USN Standard BB's. Keep up the great work

[Guest]

I like what you are doing with these kits. I wish to build the USS Idaho BB-42, but the resin 1/350 kit is $350, ouch. If I could get some good plans, maybe your kitbash of an USS Arizona might work for me.

[SigEp Ziggy]

This is a test reply, I tried a post earlier and I do not see it, the reply I did as a guest is there.

[Mr. Church]

Lovely job on the hulls so far.

I added torpedo bulges to my 1/500 H.M.S. Royal Oak and am currently adding them to my 1/500 H.M.S. Ramillies. So I can appreciate how much work went into getting them to look so nice. I always like seeing models of less common subjects.

Looking forward to further updates.

[Mr. Church]

Maybe? Maybe not?!

Regardless of method, you have achieved a lovely result with them. I look forward to seeing future updates.

[Mr. Church]

Any further progress at all David?

[Mr. Church]

Sorry to hear that, hope you get well soon!

[Xanthar]

I remember seeing these along time ago. I love to see that the pics have been preserved and that they are still progressing. I'd be happy to print the necessary cage masts for these ships, in this scale, for you. I'd also like to collaborate on WW1 conversions of these ships, because I'm all about the cage masts : ) FYI, the attached pics are the prototype prints of masts for BB-23 and the 1920's South Dakotas in 1:144 scale. I'm working on the ones for USS Arizona, circa 1916, for my own Revel kit bash. Hopefully I'll have some pics after the holiday.

[Xanthar]

if doing 1916 version you will have to remove the torpedo bulge like I did to the Tennessee. are you going to attempt to correct the concave stern like I'm doing to my models? in this link http://www.researcheratlarge.com/Ships/ ... B39_07.jpg is the 1924 outboard profile that shows barely the erased outlines of the midships hull 5" gun casements that she had in 1916.
http://www.researcheratlarge.com/Ships/BB39/BOGP/
can your printer do 1/429 scale cagemasts?

Yes, Yes, & Yes.

[Xanthar]

so what are you going to use to correct your model's stern?

I'm not much of a sculptor, so I'm vacillating between between just 3d printing a whole new stern and making a "mold" to squish putty into the right shape over the existing hull.

[Xanthar]

I thought you might do 3d printing but watch it as the 2 sides of the hull before it curves into the concave are not the same height. found that out when rebuilding the sterns that ended requiring another 1mm layer of plastic to get both sides somewhat the same shape.

Hmm.. I'm not sure that I understand that? The hull I have in front of me (see attached pic) looks pretty symmetrical. I have to agree that it looks ugly from this angle and needs some attention. I'm annoyed that I've had rubber bands around it for a at least a year in hopes that the pressure would close up the bottom seam amidships but, it's made no difference ; (

[Xanthar]

see how the rubber band going across the skeg/rudder post area is flat against the hull before a gap forms between the band & hull, that flat is not the same height on both sides of the model? I use masking tape & sometimes miniature bar clamps never rubber bands. I remove the skeg to get it out of the way while building up the stern so that once all carved, grinded & sanded to shape then I make a whole new skeg.
frame sections http://www.researcheratlarge.com/Ships/ ... B39_08.jpg

OK that's interesting. Maybe it'd be quicker to 3D print a whole new stern and just lop off the plastic one? I'm thinking it'd be fun to make "upgrade" parts for this kit to allow newbies like me to follow in your footsteps.

[Xanthar]

Thank you! I'm considering options as to what to replace and what to keep.

email sent with body plan.

[Xanthar]

I came across a couple of pictures from auction sites about a version of this kit that was motorized.
Does anyone have any info on that? I'd love to see how Revell added that feature in and maybe do something similar.

[Timmy C]

This listing shows the bag of parts that make up the motorization suite: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265207920617?e ... Swn8tg1hNo

Note also the giant hole in lower stern where I expect the prop shafts would exit.