Shell Welder - 1955 - Tanker Coaster - 3D Print - 1/100

[setori]

super boulot !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Iceman 29]

Merci � toi!

Two last ones for today.

Progress.

It's not spectacular, but it's during this phase that the model �comes to life�, or not, thanks to the many minute details, and it's very time-consuming, of course.

There will be quite a few parts to print.

I still have quite a few to add.

The inside of the bridge needs to be furnished too.

[Iceman 29]

I've made a lot of progress on the plating, and the anti-roll keels, which don't show up on the plan, but they do on the photos:

[Iceman 29]

Today I drew a bit of veneer, and a lot of rivets ( Portholes etc.. ).

A few special views just for fun:

[DrPR]

What is the function of the lines marked by the red arrows?

Phil

[Iceman 29]

Hello Phil.

As you can see from the plan, these are windsail halyards. There are 8 of them, corresponding to the number of tanks.



I think they were used to ventilate the tanks with the canvas windsock before and during operations inside the tanks, for cleaning or repairing valves or valve control rods, for example.




A bit like the existing system for sailboats:





It's a rudimentary system. Later, small tankers were fitted with Victor seawater fans, which were connected to the fire-fighting manifold to power them. I used them a lot and above all maintained them. A manhole bolted into the tank deck was provided for their use. They have the advantage of being gas-free.

https://victormarine.com/gas-freeing-fans/



Fresh air enters through the fan, and stale air through the tank dome in general.

Personal picture:



The one on the most forward side is used to hoist the petrol anchor light or the anchor ball, when it's daylight.

[DrPR]

Pascal,

Thanks! That is a new one for me - windsails for ventilation. But it makes sense, especially for ventilating tanks.

Phil

[Iceman 29]

I saw that this system was also used during the refloating of the Mikasa, to bring fresh air into the bowels of the hull for the workers.

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=11097&p=1055026#p1055026

[wefalck]

These canvass ventilators are a centuries old invention and were commonly used on wooden warships at anchor. Sometimes on can see them on old photographs and very rarely on models. Here on the model of the Portuguese frigate DON FERNANDO II E GL�RIA (1843-current) in the maritime museum in Belem/Lisbon:



Could be an exotic detail on the tanker model, made from very lightweight silk paper.

[Iceman 29]

Thanks Eberhard ! Excellent picture. I don't think I'll put them on.

I printed a prototype of the castle, the superstructures are still a challenge to print correctly, I have to rectify the position of some supports that touch the parts in some places. They were also missing in some places.

Otherwise, the rest is not bad at all, split into three parts.

I've added some weld lines on the sheet metal, as it lacked this kind of detail.

The new version is being printed, with the dunette deck added, on 2 different 3D printers.

You can see the difference in size between the 1/130 and the 1/100.













It should go pretty fast actually.

I've started transferring the parts for the rear section to STL files, only for the ar superstructures, there are already 53 items that need to be multiplied by the number (nb) of copies of each part.

That's 115 parts at the moment.

They're not all there: the railings, the parts for the inside of the bridge and an antenna are missing.

[Iceman 29]

Don't forget that this is �domestic R&D�: if you fail, you start all over again, sometimes many, many times.�
It's fascinating stuff. You just have to �domesticate� the process...�

*R&D (Research and Development)

I always have a problem with the front part of the castle, which tends to pinch down at the front when printing. It makes sense somewhere, because of the pulling force on the plate when printing the layers. Changing printers doesn't help... 3 prototypes have already been printed.

One easy solution would be to print it horizontally, but that would cause other known problems such as a thicker deck, which I wanted to avoid.

I've therefore designed a floor that will hold the bulkheads that pinch during printing, which doesn't suit me too well for placing the floor and gangway equipment from underneath, but it should do the trick in terms of sliding height.

I didn't have any problems with the rear part. I'll keep the prototypes.





Modification, drawing of a floor to consolidate the bottom of the superstructure.
It takes about 2 minutes of 3D drawing.





















And here's the job. All that's left is to lay the supports, which takes a long time, in the Chitubox slicing program, and print with the M5s, in about 3 and a half hours.



I've also changed the way I print the front panel, which didn't print well, so I'm taking the opportunity to print two versions, Hz and vertical, but upside down.



4 hours later..

The print looks good this time with the floor.

I adjusted and glued the two elements together.









The new printing plate is ready to print, this night...
I like it when machines work for me when I'm sleeping peacefully.

[wefalck]

These parts seem to be quite big. Perhaps breaking them down into smaller units helps - but then I don't know anything about the printing practicalities ...

"I like it when machines work for me when I'm sleeping peacefully. " ... one only hopes that the machines work peacefully and don't go berserk

[Iceman 29]

I'm not sure about that. I make sure that the pieces are easy to paint, I separate them into several pieces if necessary based mainly on this criterion.
There are a lot of pieces already.
And incidentally, I want to keep it relatively simple for any modeler to assemble, if they want to.

The railing is missing , which I always print separately. I haven't really decided which printer to use to print them. The MonoX 4K or the M5s 12K.

But I've adapted the diameter of the tubes, 0.4 mm instead of 0.3, to the M5s because it prints much thinner than the 4K, so I'll probably start with that one to test it out.

I'll just have to rethink the diameter of the hole through the aft mat where I have to insert a piano wire to stiffen it. Unfortunately, the hole is clogged. Sometimes the MonoX 4K is better at this.

Pleasant sight at breakfast this morning. The M5s 12k is really top-notch, once the settings have been optimized with Elegoo Rapid resin!

[Iceman 29]

I've spent hundreds of hours modelling this model (it's not the most complicated ship I've ever built), and my reward is to hold the physical parts in my hands, and in the end the complete ship - the icing on the cake, I'd say.

It's a first here for me, to remake a ship that's been in model form for a long time, so it's a bit of a challenge as well. I've come a long way! 1961, I was two years old

https://www.scalemates.com/fr/kits/frog ... er--162746



In fact, it's my favorite part of the project, the real thing, like little Christmas presents, even though I've loved drawing since I was very young and did a lot of industrial design during my studies.

I made an inventory of the printed parts to see if anything was missing, and took the opportunity to place some of them on the back of the ship. It motivates me for the rest and gives an idea of the project, which is taking shape.

[wefalck]

Booom and suddenly you have a ship

Once thing that made me wonder all the time was what triggered FROG to take up just this subject.

[Iceman 29]

Especially as bad, in my opinion, having tried to assemble it... but I gave up, given the problems that pile up as assembly and painting progresses ( Silicone in the plastic). The wear and tear of the molds has not helped.

Other modelers have suffered a lot on this ship too.
Some managed to make it a marvel like Jim by being resilient.

http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

Frog made a few other civilian ships, but I don't know what they were worth...

https://www.scalemates.com/fr/search.ph ... %20kits%22

I like this assembly too, very meticulous. A reference:

https://karopka.ru/community/user/13558/?MODEL=436843

[Iceman 29]

I've made progress on the hull, starting to prepare it for splitting into 3 parts for printing with the M5s 3D printer. I've also been working on integrating the tank deck.

I've almost finished the plating, with a few very small modifications to be made.

I set over 1300 rivets today. I couldn't wait for it to be finished, and the 3D program too...

I set the rivets as seen on the only rare detail photo of the ship that shows them on the bow. I also put some on the stern at the same level, I don't know if there were any to tell the truth, but common sense would say yes, we'll probably never know. And it would have looked weird with the disparity. We're in the realm of the hypothetical, as is often the case.

I'll be able to attack the inside of the bridge with peace of mind.











I've just noticed that there are gutters around the portholes of the front and bridge, not on the plan....
I'm going to print some out and paste them in, but it's a shame because I could have integrated them before printing the superstructure...
No problem.

[wefalck]

[Iceman 29]

Incredible precision of the Anycubic M5s printer:

Width of the �L� bar 0.06 mm , 60 microns on the drawing...









I finished the bridge, and simplified it, using equipment I had already designed for the MV Blythe Star, same year of construction.

[Iceman 29]

The 3 hull sections were printed and glued. The fit is pretty good.









I had a few problems with the stern during the first print run, a micro power cut probably at 95% of the print run, i.e. after 16 hours of printing, as I found nothing wrong with the file or with this rather reliable printer, in fact I reprinted the rear section later with the same file on the same machine without any problem. The truncated section is recoverable, as the print interruption is clear, the printer continued but in a vacuum, I may print the missing stern section, as I know exactly at which layer number the problem occurred. I've already prepared the missing piece. I'll post some photos tomorrow.

As for the front part, I also had a problem, this time it's my fault, I used supports with too small a cross-section, and as the printing is very high and the supports are very long, they can break or deform in the high parts. So I added 1.30 mm section supports, and it's fine.

Printing such long, overhanging objects requires a different technique for the supports than for small objects. This element is not recoverable. Garbage can, that's the prototyping game.

I printed the 3 elements of the hull with the 2 MonoX 4K printers, their maximum print height of 245 mm helped me to print the 230 mm rear part without cutting into the superstructure, where with the M5s it doesn't fit in terms of height, 200 mm max. After that, it's better to print all 3 parts on the same type of machine.
These 4K machines do the job very well, and their precision is good enough for hulls even with rivets.







On his work stand:

You can see the difference in size (between 1/130 and 1/100) with Frog's antique Shell Welder.