For rounds I use a metal bar , and gradualy fold the litho around it.
This is for Reid, my 1/32 scale r/c Tug HMT RESOLVE, the only photo of her in water is in my bath,
enjoy ARH,
1/72 USS Moffett DD362 (13.07.1944)
Moderators: MartinJQuinn, JIM BAUMANN, HMAS, Tiny69, Dave Wooley
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, For bending my litho I use the platform of the stand up drill, it has a sharpish edge for bending against and is square , so your angles are correct.
For rounds I use a metal bar , and gradualy fold the litho around it.
This is for Reid, my 1/32 scale r/c Tug HMT RESOLVE, the only photo of her in water is in my bath,
enjoy ARH,
For rounds I use a metal bar , and gradualy fold the litho around it.
This is for Reid, my 1/32 scale r/c Tug HMT RESOLVE, the only photo of her in water is in my bath,
enjoy ARH,
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, First an overall view of the build, the main part of the bridge with its litho covering, the ply built structure for the second stack, and the rear superstructure.
I have covered the stack base and have marked out the plating.
The smaller part of the structure is built and covered.
The curved section is an extention piece to carry the Orlicon platform, the curved section is for the end of the torpedo tubes to pass by, this was made out of ply with litho on both sides, drilled and filed to shape.
The top of the rear structure is covered with litho and deck plates marked out.
The side and rear plates cut and ready for fitting.
My stash of litho plate, kindly donated by Dave Woolly, also the structure nearly covered
Overall view of the work to date.
enjoy,ARH
I have covered the stack base and have marked out the plating.
The smaller part of the structure is built and covered.
The curved section is an extention piece to carry the Orlicon platform, the curved section is for the end of the torpedo tubes to pass by, this was made out of ply with litho on both sides, drilled and filed to shape.
The top of the rear structure is covered with litho and deck plates marked out.
The side and rear plates cut and ready for fitting.
My stash of litho plate, kindly donated by Dave Woolly,
also the structure nearly coveredOverall view of the work to date.
enjoy,ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, Thanks for the post,s
I have cut and covered and also marked out the plating for the Orlicon platform.
The rear of the bridge, ladder opening has been plated around.
The 6 stantions that hold the Orlicon platform in place have been drilled in to the deck and glued in place, hollow brass tube was used, you can see the strength in the build, that roll of lead weighs 2 lbs, but the build is light weight.
Viewed from another angel.
The model now weigh,s 6 lbs.
The next 4 photo,s are the models latest picture as to date,viewed from different angels.
enjoy, ARH
I have cut and covered and also marked out the plating for the Orlicon platform.
The rear of the bridge, ladder opening has been plated around.
The 6 stantions that hold the Orlicon platform in place have been drilled in to the deck and glued in place, hollow brass tube was used, you can see the strength in the build, that roll of lead weighs 2 lbs, but the build is light weight.
Viewed from another angel.
The model now weigh,s 6 lbs.
The next 4 photo,s are the models latest picture as to date,viewed from different angels.
enjoy, ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, I started to put on a sub deck like I do when I plank the deck in timber, as this is going to be a steel deck I thought I could do away with it, and attach the steel to the main deck.
The first plate cut and glued in place with contact adhesive, the deck has been marked out and scribed with a sharp pointed knife blade.
2/3/4th plates fitted and scribed, openings roughly cut out.
View down the hull.
3 Sections glued in place on the lower deck.
Plates marked out, I have made all the plates, 300mmx150mm.
Nearly all the plates in position, at the stern you can see the one that covers the rudder post, this will be removable, it will have the depth charge racks on top of it.
View from the stern.
Around all the superstructures there will be a small combing, this will tidy up all the small gaps near the deck level.
A close up of deck and superstructure, 1 plate to scribe, and 1 plate to fit on lower deck.
enjoy. ARH
The first plate cut and glued in place with contact adhesive, the deck has been marked out and scribed with a sharp pointed knife blade.
2/3/4th plates fitted and scribed, openings roughly cut out.
View down the hull.
3 Sections glued in place on the lower deck.
Plates marked out, I have made all the plates, 300mmx150mm.
Nearly all the plates in position, at the stern you can see the one that covers the rudder post, this will be removable, it will have the depth charge racks on top of it.
View from the stern.
Around all the superstructures there will be a small combing, this will tidy up all the small gaps near the deck level.
A close up of deck and superstructure, 1 plate to scribe, and 1 plate to fit on lower deck.
enjoy. ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, This is the base for the 40mm twin bofor, it is made from thin ply and again covered in litho plate , top and bottom, also fitted is the floor strengtheners, or brackets.
Base glued in place in front of the bridge.
Not the best of pics but you can see the side wall ply in place, and the litho hooked on to the ply at the ladder opening ready to be wrapped around the outside.
Above the bridge is the radar platform, I have started putting in the solid sections and the ladder opening.
A better view of the whole thing.
These are the 4 sections to make up the radar base , top, bottom , infill, and surround.
Brass wire bent to shape for the hand rails.
Holes drilled out for handrails.
Handrails all glue in place, these are Billings 19mm 2 rail stantions, also the top rail has been glued in place on the solid section.
enjoy, ARH
Base glued in place in front of the bridge.
Not the best of pics but you can see the side wall ply in place, and the litho hooked on to the ply at the ladder opening ready to be wrapped around the outside.
Above the bridge is the radar platform, I have started putting in the solid sections and the ladder opening.
A better view of the whole thing.
These are the 4 sections to make up the radar base , top, bottom , infill, and surround.
Brass wire bent to shape for the hand rails.
Holes drilled out for handrails.
Handrails all glue in place, these are Billings 19mm 2 rail stantions, also the top rail has been glued in place on the solid section.
enjoy, ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, I have been working on the rear superstructure, started to fit the shielding around the twin 40 bofors.
The first one is fitted and glued in place, the second has been bent to shape , I have doubled over the litho plate to give it more strength.
The second one is glued in place using super glue.
The rear guard is a little more tricky than the two side ones, this I started with my very thin ply, I cut it to shape and then cut an inner and outer plate in litho, I bent the ply around my metal bar, and did the same with the outer litho, I then glued the two together and glued them in position.
I left them for awhile to set, later I glued the inner section in place .
Viewed from the stern, this structure carries the quad 40 bofor.
Next I cut the top rail out of thin ply.
As you can see, I have fitted the two side top rails and the rear rail, the rear rail because of the shape needed a good weight across the middle to hold it down while drying.
Around the out side I fit some of the strengthening sections
On the forward structure I fit the top rail to the bandstand for the twin 40 bofor, also I have fit the canvase dodger, this has ben replace, I was not happy at the way it looked.
Slightly smaller this is the shielding for the Orlicon, 3 layers 2 litho and 1 ply, still needs its top rail.
An overall view of the work to date
enjoy, ARH
The first one is fitted and glued in place, the second has been bent to shape , I have doubled over the litho plate to give it more strength.
The second one is glued in place using super glue.
The rear guard is a little more tricky than the two side ones, this I started with my very thin ply, I cut it to shape and then cut an inner and outer plate in litho, I bent the ply around my metal bar, and did the same with the outer litho, I then glued the two together and glued them in position.
I left them for awhile to set, later I glued the inner section in place .
Viewed from the stern, this structure carries the quad 40 bofor.
Next I cut the top rail out of thin ply.
As you can see, I have fitted the two side top rails and the rear rail, the rear rail because of the shape needed a good weight across the middle to hold it down while drying.
Around the out side I fit some of the strengthening sections
On the forward structure I fit the top rail to the bandstand for the twin 40 bofor, also I have fit the canvase dodger, this has ben replace, I was not happy at the way it looked.
Slightly smaller this is the shielding for the Orlicon, 3 layers 2 litho and 1 ply, still needs its top rail.
An overall view of the work to date
enjoy, ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Thanks Guys.
From the drawings I mark out the base, just leaving it slightly smaller because im adding litho plate to the outside.
I have cut out all the sections and marked them with a letter, top, bottom, side right ,front, side left, rear, this is in thin ply.
The front had the windows cut out first, then this was glued to litho plate and folded upwards, the 2 side,s were glued in place.
All this was glued on top of the base, then the remainder was put in.
At this point I must have had a laps of concentration and not took any more pic,s till this one.
The radar is JR Products in 1/72 scale, there are very few about, not perfect but it will have to do for now, I will have to find some fine mesh and replace the heavy looking cast section.
Viewed from the rear, also note the start of the stacks, the inner is 35mm plasic tube, then my litho marked in to plates and rolled and then glued in place.
Both sites were cut to shape and glued in place, the opening covers to the windows were also cut and put in position.
The small ladder fitted.
Looking at the left side.
And the right side.
enjoy , ARH
From the drawings I mark out the base, just leaving it slightly smaller because im adding litho plate to the outside.
I have cut out all the sections and marked them with a letter, top, bottom, side right ,front, side left, rear, this is in thin ply.
The front had the windows cut out first, then this was glued to litho plate and folded upwards, the 2 side,s were glued in place.
All this was glued on top of the base, then the remainder was put in.
At this point I must have had a laps of concentration and not took any more pic,s till this one.
The radar is JR Products in 1/72 scale, there are very few about, not perfect but it will have to do for now, I will have to find some fine mesh and replace the heavy looking cast section.
Viewed from the rear, also note the start of the stacks, the inner is 35mm plasic tube, then my litho marked in to plates and rolled and then glued in place.
Both sites were cut to shape and glued in place, the opening covers to the windows were also cut and put in position.
The small ladder fitted.
Looking at the left side.
And the right side.
enjoy , ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, just a short one to-night, rear superstructure.
I bought 100 handrail stantions, 3 rail, they are from Billings and are just the right size for 1/72 scale, I started on the rear structure, the starboard side has a set of ladders on the casement so I put in the opening, the port side has though rails.
I fit the rails around the forward part of the structure, everything is super glued in position.
enjoy, ARH.
I bought 100 handrail stantions, 3 rail, they are from Billings and are just the right size for 1/72 scale, I started on the rear structure, the starboard side has a set of ladders on the casement so I put in the opening, the port side has though rails.
I fit the rails around the forward part of the structure, everything is super glued in position.
enjoy, ARH.
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, This is the rear stack, it has had its band fitted, at the base I have shaped a piece of timber to the flair of the stack.
This is the first part of the base of the stack behind the bridge.
The second part is cut on an angle, this gives the rake of the stack, again it was cut from a block of timber.
Both stacks in place but not glued down, note the corners have been sanded to shape, also the second stack has a tappered wedge at the base.
Both base,s have been sanded and a grey undercoat applied.
Viewed from a different angle .
This is the shape of the litho that is needed to make the top rim on the stack.
Fitted in place on the second stack.
The first stack has a totally different shape at the top, it is 2 parts, the first part is a cylinder but cut off at an angle, then at the very top is a curved section, all this is to deflect the smoke away from the bridge.
The second rim fitted , also a rim fitted inside the second stack.
One of the steam pipes fitted to the first stack, still nothing glued in place, more pipe work to be done.
enjoy, ARH
This is the first part of the base of the stack behind the bridge.
The second part is cut on an angle, this gives the rake of the stack, again it was cut from a block of timber.
Both stacks in place but not glued down, note the corners have been sanded to shape, also the second stack has a tappered wedge at the base.
Both base,s have been sanded and a grey undercoat applied.
Viewed from a different angle .
This is the shape of the litho that is needed to make the top rim on the stack.
Fitted in place on the second stack.
The first stack has a totally different shape at the top, it is 2 parts, the first part is a cylinder but cut off at an angle, then at the very top is a curved section, all this is to deflect the smoke away from the bridge.
The second rim fitted , also a rim fitted inside the second stack.
One of the steam pipes fitted to the first stack, still nothing glued in place, more pipe work to be done.
enjoy, ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Thanks Guys for all your comments,
The 4 sections are for 2 wt doors, 1 is the outer door and 1 is a section to raise the door off the superstructure to give it depth, these will be glued together.
The door in position with its hinges and door knob, also I have drilled and made some port holes on the bridge, these were cut from brass tube.
Some hand rails fitted and you can see the portholes on the bridge better.
I fit a door at the back of the bridge and a porthole.
More handrails, also the ladder fitted to the bandstand, the brass you see between the upper level and the bridge is a strengthening section for the bridge roof, it can be seen on the photo,s of the ship.
enjoy, ARH
The 4 sections are for 2 wt doors, 1 is the outer door and 1 is a section to raise the door off the superstructure to give it depth, these will be glued together.
The door in position with its hinges and door knob, also I have drilled and made some port holes on the bridge, these were cut from brass tube.
Some hand rails fitted and you can see the portholes on the bridge better.
I fit a door at the back of the bridge and a porthole.
More handrails, also the ladder fitted to the bandstand, the brass you see between the upper level and the bridge is a strengthening section for the bridge roof, it can be seen on the photo,s of the ship.
enjoy, ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, Its gone a little cool in the u/k at the moment so I have begun to assemble my twin bofors.
You can see the 11 parts in the kit, made by JR Produces 1/72 scale, I have found them to be quite good, very little clean up.
The fixed base and the turning base cleaned up.
The two sections fixed together and the rear section glued in position, there could be a handrail fixed here but none in the kit, I will look in to this later.
The 2 shell discharge shuttes glued in position.
The main frame and the barrels fixed in position, I drilled through the frame and got the barrels to move up or down, also the seats were fixed in position.
Viewed from the front.
Sites glued in position, I have some small round P/E sites that can be fixed on here.
Viewed from a different angle.
enjoy, ARH
You can see the 11 parts in the kit, made by JR Produces 1/72 scale, I have found them to be quite good, very little clean up.
The fixed base and the turning base cleaned up.
The two sections fixed together and the rear section glued in position, there could be a handrail fixed here but none in the kit, I will look in to this later.
The 2 shell discharge shuttes glued in position.
The main frame and the barrels fixed in position, I drilled through the frame and got the barrels to move up or down, also the seats were fixed in position.
Viewed from the front.
Sites glued in position, I have some small round P/E sites that can be fixed on here.
Viewed from a different angle.
enjoy, ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Well Roy, Nice to see some of the people come forward and ask questions, some can calculate it from the drawings but im not that clever, mine comes from years of experiance of building models, on large models this is never rearly a problem , you nearly always have to add ballast to get them to the water line.
In all my builds on the site I try to show how to build LIGHT and STRONG this is a must for R/C vessels, Moffett is very narrow so we need to watch the weight , she is 6lbs at the moment, she will increase as some more stuff is added, then there,s the motors, radio, and batteries still to go inside, I think all up weight will be around 16 lbs.
In all my builds on the site I try to show how to build LIGHT and STRONG this is a must for R/C vessels, Moffett is very narrow so we need to watch the weight , she is 6lbs at the moment, she will increase as some more stuff is added, then there,s the motors, radio, and batteries still to go inside, I think all up weight will be around 16 lbs.
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, On with the build,
Quad 40 Bofor.
In the kit we have 16 parts, they needed very little clean up ,
First the base was glued to the main platform.
Then the inside shell ejection chutes are glued in to position.
Next the outer 2 glued in, also under the main platform on the outer wings 2 drive motors.
The main frame and barrel was glued in position.
Next the one on the opposit side was fitted, also the gun sites.
All 3 twins and the quade 40 built, all seats in position.
Quade 40 placed in position, also 2 twin 40,s on the rear superstructure.
enjoy. ARH
Quad 40 Bofor.
In the kit we have 16 parts, they needed very little clean up ,
First the base was glued to the main platform.
Then the inside shell ejection chutes are glued in to position.
Next the outer 2 glued in, also under the main platform on the outer wings 2 drive motors.
The main frame and barrel was glued in position.
Next the one on the opposit side was fitted, also the gun sites.
All 3 twins and the quade 40 built, all seats in position.
Quade 40 placed in position, also 2 twin 40,s on the rear superstructure.
enjoy. ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, Just a small update tonight.
This is the support for the bridge wings, shown from the back side, there is one on either side.
Support in position, also extra stantion going out to the corner of the platform, when I show you how I have done the guard rails you will see some better photo,s of this work, but I want to keep you all guessing.
Armourments placed in position, 3 on the rear , 1 on the bridge, you can just make out the bridge support.
enjoy, ARH
This is the support for the bridge wings, shown from the back side, there is one on either side.
Support in position, also extra stantion going out to the corner of the platform, when I show you how I have done the guard rails you will see some better photo,s of this work, but I want to keep you all guessing.
Armourments placed in position, 3 on the rear , 1 on the bridge, you can just make out the bridge support.
enjoy, ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, Continuing on from last night, you can see the two supports in position.
This is the shape of the first plate to fit on the edge of the bridge wings.
The plate is rolled to give the unusual shape of the front and side plates, glued in position.
The back plate is straight except for the angle bend on the far left.
All 3 sides in position, looks like a bofor has appeared on the bridge.
Two wind deflectores fitted, these were folded over a piece of 1/4 inch ply wood and cut to size.
Both sides nearly fitted, one wind deflector to fit.
All fittedand bofor back in position.
A better shot of all the work, also handrails fitted at rear.
enjoy. ARH
This is the shape of the first plate to fit on the edge of the bridge wings.
The plate is rolled to give the unusual shape of the front and side plates, glued in position.
The back plate is straight except for the angle bend on the far left.
All 3 sides in position, looks like a bofor has appeared on the bridge.
Two wind deflectores fitted, these were folded over a piece of 1/4 inch ply wood and cut to size.
Both sides nearly fitted, one wind deflector to fit.
All fittedand bofor back in position.
A better shot of all the work, also handrails fitted at rear.
enjoy. ARH
Simple but effective.
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ARH
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, I am working on the stacks again, I was not to happy with the steam pipe fitted so I looked for some better stuff to do them with.
First of all I made 3 small brackets out of litho plate, I doubled it over to give it a bit more strength.
The new matierial is still plastic but the walls are thicker and with a little heat are esier to bend with out kinking, I also had two small cowl vents the same diametor , I drilled into the top of the pipe and glued it in place.
Every thing was then glued in position.
Both new pipes in position.
A ladder fitted to stack , also a grab rail on the first part of the cowl, on the superstructure another section of hand rails were fitted.
On the other side of the stack another steam pipe was fitted.
At the front of the second stack a smaller steam pipe, this is more for the hooter sounds, it is made from small bore brass soldied together at the Y, and a heavier pipe cut and bent at the top, also flared out at the ends.
An overall view of the stack in position, You may notice some of the bandstand has been taken off, it was 1/8 inch to high for the Orlikons, if its wrong its wrong and had to come off and be cut down. 
The round section is the platform for the large search light.
enjoy, ARH
First of all I made 3 small brackets out of litho plate, I doubled it over to give it a bit more strength.
The new matierial is still plastic but the walls are thicker and with a little heat are esier to bend with out kinking, I also had two small cowl vents the same diametor , I drilled into the top of the pipe and glued it in place.
Every thing was then glued in position.
Both new pipes in position.
A ladder fitted to stack , also a grab rail on the first part of the cowl, on the superstructure another section of hand rails were fitted.
On the other side of the stack another steam pipe was fitted.
At the front of the second stack a smaller steam pipe, this is more for the hooter sounds, it is made from small bore brass soldied together at the Y, and a heavier pipe cut and bent at the top, also flared out at the ends.
An overall view of the stack in position, You may notice some of the bandstand has been taken off, it was 1/8 inch to high for the Orlikons, if its wrong its wrong and had to come off and be cut down.
The round section is the platform for the large search light.enjoy, ARH
Simple but effective.