Soldering P-E

PATMAT · Post by **PATMAT** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:49 am

I like to solder my photoetch. Well, maybe "like" is too strong a word. But still, soldered structures are much stronger, especially good in large scale R/C models.

The trick is to use flux. Not just the flux in your flux-core solder, but a flux applied to the metal first. This allows the solder to flow beautifully instead of leaving globs behind... just takes a tiny smidge of the stuff, and the solder can be applied from the tip of your iron- often no need to apply it directly.

I'm using copper pipe flux... it works well, but is greasy and needs to be cleaned off.

Q's:
- Anyone have a better flux to recommend?
- What's a good way to clean fluxed parts prior to paint?

Images- some P-E from my 1:144 Tian Jie Yamato- crane and float plane dolly. There 17 soldered parts in the crane assembly, 10 in the dolly and cradle assembly.
Crane boom is 5" long, dolly cradle is 7/8".

Pat M

Ron Smith · Post by **Ron Smith** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:15 am

PATMAT wrote: Q's:
- Anyone have a better flux to recommend?
- What's a good way to clean fluxed parts prior to paint?

Yes, Kester RMA type liquid flux. Only problem is you can usually only get it in gallons. Try http://www.techni-tool.com and enter flux in their search bard. They also carry flux pens but I don't much like them. That's for tin/lead solders mostly. There are other fluxes for silver bearing soft solder, TIX, silver solder (hard type) and indium solder.....the last I don't think any of us need at over $1600/kg.

Cleaning RMA flux is easy, soak the part in 90% isopropyl alcohol 15 minutes or so, brush lightly with a stiff brush, soak in a second container of alcohol a few minutes, brush again, rinse with clean isopropyl. Sometimes you need to get a little more aggressive, use acetone on a q-tip to get the worst off then go to the alcohol.

You can keep your alcohol soaks in tightly lidded glass jars, as they get dirty dump the first, rinse the jar with clean alcohol and refill, the refill becomes the last soak and other slightly dirty jar becomes the first soak.

rokket · Post by **rokket** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 7:58 pm

Thanks for the tips. I'm trying to solder brass rail for 1:72, and I am tearing my hair out.

Heat Sinks: when you solder close to an already soldered joint, any brilliant secret to not de-soldering the other work? I can't imagine any sort of heat sink being attachable or workanle...?

PATMAT · Post by **PATMAT** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:04 pm

Here's a heat sink:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachme ... id=1187222

Pat M

rokket · Post by **rokket** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:10 pm

Thanks, You're Aces, mate!

rokket · Post by **rokket** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:14 pm

BTW - VERY nice work, Pat, love the detail. Tell us more about that build.

Karsten · Post by **Karsten** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:16 pm

Have you thought about Plumber's Putty. It is widely used by knife mkers to create a Hamon during heat treating as a heat sink.

Maybe roll it out and wrap it round/smash ti across the area you want tho save from heat then remove it, ball it up and start over again.

Karsten

rokket · Post by **rokket** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:23 pm

Thanks Karsetn I am looking into it. Never heard of it, but then I'm not a plumber! Thanks!

PATMAT · Post by **PATMAT** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:31 pm

rokket wrote:BTW - VERY nice work, Pat, love the detail. Tell us more about that build.

Thanks.
Everything you could want to know is at http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=644395

Karsten · Post by **Karsten** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 8:37 pm

rokket wrote:Thanks Karsetn I am looking into it. Never heard of it, but then I'm not a plumber! Thanks!

You can get a small plastic tub for around $2.00 US at most any hardware store. About a Cups worth and should last quite a while.

Karsten

rokket · Post by **rokket** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 9:00 pm

Headed to the hardware store now!

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