Calling all Iowa-class (BB-61) fans
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- Starfreak07
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:35 pm
- Location: Kent, UK
I have a couple of questions, i am sorry if they have been asked or answered before.. I am planning ahead and getting stuff, not gonna be getting all of it at once..
I am gonna be building a Tamiya USS Missouri 1/350 in late war config, i am gonna be getting L'Arsenal Foredeck Upgrade set, verious PE sets as well as a few other bits an pieces.
Has anyone used the BMK US 16"/50 Barrels?? If so are they easy to install??
Secondly what was the plane on the rear of the ship?? I have been looking at the L'Arsenal 1/350 Curtiss Seahawk to replace the kit planes. Will these be correct for 1944-45?
Is there anything i should be thinking about getting for it?
I am gonna be building a Tamiya USS Missouri 1/350 in late war config, i am gonna be getting L'Arsenal Foredeck Upgrade set, verious PE sets as well as a few other bits an pieces.
Has anyone used the BMK US 16"/50 Barrels?? If so are they easy to install??
Secondly what was the plane on the rear of the ship?? I have been looking at the L'Arsenal 1/350 Curtiss Seahawk to replace the kit planes. Will these be correct for 1944-45?
Is there anything i should be thinking about getting for it?
-
Tracy White
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She certainly had the SC-1's by the time of the surrender ceremony, but I don't know when she received them. Lots of photos of her without aircraft at NHC....
Tracy White -Researcher@Large
"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman
"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman
- Tony Bunch
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:22 pm
- Location: Santee, CA
Hi Guys,
Hi Starfreak07,
How far do you want to go?
The L'Arsenal goodies list just keeps on growing. The 16"50 barrels available today, I have not seen, but if they're like any others you'll have to: attach the barrels>blast bags>turret face.
Alternatively, you attach the blast bags to the turret face>attach the brass barrels from inside the turret going through the pre-drilled turrets/blast bags.
That's all I've ever had to do.
Here's a picture of a 1/700 brass barrel>resin turret sample.....

1945 Missouri for sure had her SC-1's. She underwent a yard period in Jan, 45. Missouri had a number of other changes as well; not reflected in Tamiya's kit......Just to inform!
Here's Missouri from an interesting viewpoint........

I'll never stray far from the Iowa Fans!
Tony
Hi Starfreak07,
How far do you want to go?
The L'Arsenal goodies list just keeps on growing. The 16"50 barrels available today, I have not seen, but if they're like any others you'll have to: attach the barrels>blast bags>turret face.
Alternatively, you attach the blast bags to the turret face>attach the brass barrels from inside the turret going through the pre-drilled turrets/blast bags.
That's all I've ever had to do.
Here's a picture of a 1/700 brass barrel>resin turret sample.....
1945 Missouri for sure had her SC-1's. She underwent a yard period in Jan, 45. Missouri had a number of other changes as well; not reflected in Tamiya's kit......Just to inform!
Here's Missouri from an interesting viewpoint........

I'll never stray far from the Iowa Fans!
Tony
"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
- Starfreak07
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:35 pm
- Location: Kent, UK
-
Tracy White
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Tony: Nice shot! Very inspiring.... I may have to move the four planes I'm working on off my workbench 
Tracy White -Researcher@Large
"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman
"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman
- Tony Bunch
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:22 pm
- Location: Santee, CA
Hi Guys,
Simon,
An answer to one of your last questions; regarding the kit barrel lengths.
Here ya go!


Looks the same to me.......
Still miss Steve!
Tracy,
I can't take credit for the picture, just finding it, keeping it, and then sharing it! As if you thought otherwise!
A/C are awesome, but in a 1 on 1 comparison to an Iowa Class???
Come now!
Tony
Simon,
An answer to one of your last questions; regarding the kit barrel lengths.
Here ya go!
Looks the same to me.......
Still miss Steve!
Tracy,
I can't take credit for the picture, just finding it, keeping it, and then sharing it! As if you thought otherwise!
A/C are awesome, but in a 1 on 1 comparison to an Iowa Class???
Come now!
Tony
"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
- Starfreak07
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:35 pm
- Location: Kent, UK
- Yamato1701
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Some of y'all might find that front on view of the Misery err I mean Missouri (my Bad) but I am thinking of the poor sailor or sailors they had to get into that position by either hoisting him down (I sure hope not) or by being in a boat in front of it. Don't get me wrong it deffinitely bring out a sense of awe. Although as a Submariner, i don't ever want o see that view in the persicope. Nice work on the model by the way.
Am I strange, that every time I see a picture or mention of the Yamato, I hear Starblazers music in my head?
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- Starfreak07
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:35 pm
- Location: Kent, UK
- Tony Bunch
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:22 pm
- Location: Santee, CA
Hi Guys,
Simon,
I would vote for the GMM 3504 WWII Iowa Class set; additionally set 3504-A (Missouri Gold Plus details set).
LOTS of details to add to Tamiya's baby.
Not the only p/e set, but the one I chose.
BTW, L'Arsenal recenty released its' own Iowa Class p/e Catapults and cranes......superb! State of teh art releif etching and resin casting.
Check this out!

I could post pics all night! I have so much Iowa stuff!
Tony
Simon,
I would vote for the GMM 3504 WWII Iowa Class set; additionally set 3504-A (Missouri Gold Plus details set).
LOTS of details to add to Tamiya's baby.
Not the only p/e set, but the one I chose.
BTW, L'Arsenal recenty released its' own Iowa Class p/e Catapults and cranes......superb! State of teh art releif etching and resin casting.
Check this out!
I could post pics all night! I have so much Iowa stuff!
Tony
"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
- Starfreak07
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:35 pm
- Location: Kent, UK
Ok this is probably a stupid question and i probably know the answer already, but i want to make sure anyway. I am gonna make my Missouri a Waterline build. Where abouts should i cut? Once i have cut the bottom off will i need to brace the rest of the haul? Or is the Tamiya Plastic thick enough not to worry?
Cheers
Simon
Cheers
Simon
- Tony Bunch
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:22 pm
- Location: Santee, CA
Hi Simon,
The hull bottom will be flimsy as all get out once you've cut through about one half of it. I chose to cut through at the lower boot topping raised line, as it gave me plenty of room to mess up.
I'll post some more pics of this process later.
Tony
The hull bottom will be flimsy as all get out once you've cut through about one half of it. I chose to cut through at the lower boot topping raised line, as it gave me plenty of room to mess up.
I'll post some more pics of this process later.
Tony
"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
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ModelMonkey
- Model Monkey

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2. John V. Gardner, USMC - Remembers the defense of Midway Island by the
6th Defense Battalion, USMC
3. Battleship New Jersey�s Helicopter Display� by ABFC Joe Boyle, USN/Ret.
4. Two new Battleship New Jersey artifact donations are described...
5. USS South Dakota (BB-57) Memorial, Sioux Falls, South Dakota
6. Building USS Iowa (BB-61) by Battleship New Jersey Volunteer Art Hill
7. Asking for stories and photos for the April 2008, 40th Anniversary issue of the re-commissioning of USS New Jersey for Vietnam.
8. "About The Decks" - The second in a continuing series of individual photographs and short biographies of those volunteering their time aboard Battleship New Jersey
9. Ship's Bells - �The BB-65 Ship�s Bell� by Bill Lee, Monroe, North Carolina
10. Ship�s Bell photo - USS Bennington (CV-20) - from Bennington, Vermont
11. �The Brooklyn Dodgers?� Some 50 year old Brooklyn memories by Tom Helvig
12. Simulator USS Trayer commissioned at NTC Great Lakes. It ain�t your old Grandpa�s boot camp anymore�
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- johndon
- Posts: 1033
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 3:39 pm
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I cut mine off at the bottom of the boot topping (after I'd glued the deck in place) and I haven't felt the need to brace mine at all.Starfreak07 wrote:Ok this is probably a stupid question and i probably know the answer already, but i want to make sure anyway. I am gonna make my Missouri a Waterline build. Where abouts should i cut? Once i have cut the bottom off will i need to brace the rest of the haul? Or is the Tamiya Plastic thick enough not to worry?
Cheers
Simon
John
- Tony Bunch
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 5:22 pm
- Location: Santee, CA
Hi Guys,
Simon,
Like John, I too had no trouble with the 1/350 Tamiya hull's rigidity, (after removing the hull bottom), once the three deck sections had been added on and a new, "flat bottom", was attached.
The process I used to cut away the hull botom was simple enough. I used an electric Dremel tool with the flat, "cut-off", disc in place. I cut along the lower, (of two), molded in raised boot topping lines slowly and methodically. My reasoning, (as stated previously), was to allow ample room for unevenness in the cutting process. Turns out that the Dremel was not that hard to use, and the, "waviness", was kept to a + or - of approx. 1/8". I then used the Dremel to do some, "leveling", and then I switched to a coarse hobby file. After much hobby filing, I was almost left with a perfectly, "planed", hull bottom. At this point, I think about .200" of the hull remained below the upper boot topping molded line. Next, I attached the stern deck section permanently, and I glued it from beneath..now that there's plenty of access. The bow and midships deck sections first were attached together, and then attached to the hull/stern deck section. I then attached a .040" bottom comprised of three sheets of Evergreen plain sheet styrene. The hull outlined was trimmed into the sheet styrene after the glue dried, and a final trim and sanding process was done.




Voila! A water line(d) Tamiya 1/350 Missouri! It was at this point that I decided to plan to attach the hull to a piece of tinted blue acrylic sheet, (future water base), with the hulls' outline cut into the 1/8" acrylic sheet.
This way, the hulls' additional remaining depth would settle nicely down into the 1/8" acrylic sheet. Still have not done this, (model is not yet finished), but the hull fits. This model wil be displayed with an additional two substancial vessels: USS Renshaw DD499, and a Hoga YT. This display will be a re-creation of the Missouri's Navy Day participation/celebration on the Hudson River, October 27th, 1945.
The Renshaw DD kit is not as far along as the Missouri, but that could change quickly. I have some pictures of Renshaw on the Calling All Fletcher Fans Thread, but no pics posted very recently.
Hope this helps. I figure if I can do this; you can too.
Tony
Simon,
Like John, I too had no trouble with the 1/350 Tamiya hull's rigidity, (after removing the hull bottom), once the three deck sections had been added on and a new, "flat bottom", was attached.
The process I used to cut away the hull botom was simple enough. I used an electric Dremel tool with the flat, "cut-off", disc in place. I cut along the lower, (of two), molded in raised boot topping lines slowly and methodically. My reasoning, (as stated previously), was to allow ample room for unevenness in the cutting process. Turns out that the Dremel was not that hard to use, and the, "waviness", was kept to a + or - of approx. 1/8". I then used the Dremel to do some, "leveling", and then I switched to a coarse hobby file. After much hobby filing, I was almost left with a perfectly, "planed", hull bottom. At this point, I think about .200" of the hull remained below the upper boot topping molded line. Next, I attached the stern deck section permanently, and I glued it from beneath..now that there's plenty of access. The bow and midships deck sections first were attached together, and then attached to the hull/stern deck section. I then attached a .040" bottom comprised of three sheets of Evergreen plain sheet styrene. The hull outlined was trimmed into the sheet styrene after the glue dried, and a final trim and sanding process was done.
Voila! A water line(d) Tamiya 1/350 Missouri! It was at this point that I decided to plan to attach the hull to a piece of tinted blue acrylic sheet, (future water base), with the hulls' outline cut into the 1/8" acrylic sheet.

This way, the hulls' additional remaining depth would settle nicely down into the 1/8" acrylic sheet. Still have not done this, (model is not yet finished), but the hull fits. This model wil be displayed with an additional two substancial vessels: USS Renshaw DD499, and a Hoga YT. This display will be a re-creation of the Missouri's Navy Day participation/celebration on the Hudson River, October 27th, 1945.
The Renshaw DD kit is not as far along as the Missouri, but that could change quickly. I have some pictures of Renshaw on the Calling All Fletcher Fans Thread, but no pics posted very recently.
Hope this helps. I figure if I can do this; you can too.
Tony
"You guys make this hobby fun!"
"Some of my dearest friends I have made right here on Modelwarships"
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- Avery Boyer
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I ended up getting a good deal on a Trumpy Iowa w/ GMM PE ($20 new and unstarted
). Thanks to those who answered my questions about the kit, now I know what to expect 
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- JPH
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:28 pm
- Location: Sydney, Australia
Some beautiful models in this thread.
Looking at Steve Larsens Missouri on the first page has me a little stumped. The blue hull & deck shades are awesome but what grey is used on the vertical surfaces? To me it looks to light to be Haze grey (Tamiya TS-32 spray paint).
Any help appreciated. If it has already been covered here apologies, but at the moment & don't have time to flick through 32 pages, being that i'm at work & all
Thanks.
Looking at Steve Larsens Missouri on the first page has me a little stumped. The blue hull & deck shades are awesome but what grey is used on the vertical surfaces? To me it looks to light to be Haze grey (Tamiya TS-32 spray paint).
Any help appreciated. If it has already been covered here apologies, but at the moment & don't have time to flick through 32 pages, being that i'm at work & all
Thanks.
-
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- Yamato1701
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Was looking through Google maps today and 5 Iowa Class battleships. Not 4 like were actually built but 5 full and complete (modernized) Iowa's Good luck to you finding them all.
Am I strange, that every time I see a picture or mention of the Yamato, I hear Starblazers music in my head?
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