Tamiya Acrylic Paints - WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:11 pm

OK guys, I finally decided to swallow my pride and ask what will undoubtedly be a dumb question to more experienced ship modelers;

I am building up a 1/144 Yamato Turret by Pitt-Road. Beautiful sculpt, some additional customizing needed, no problem.

Then, I bought the bottle of Tamiya Acrylic J.N. Grey paint. Well, the first time around I noticed that the paint started to stick, pool in places, not want to stick to some other spots. After it dried, a second coat went on a little better, salvaging some of the problems.

OK, so I should have washed the kit to remove any residue before painting. But why is the Tamiya 'sticky' the first time around?

On the label there is a cryptic note 'Use Tamiya Acrylic Thinner'. Is this concentrated paint that should be cut with the thinner BEFORE painting?

I know someone out there has the answer. Thanks in advance?

Karsten · Post by **Karsten** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:40 pm

I use only Tamiya paints these days as I don't have access to some of the other stuff.

Clean the parts good in s light degreaser or soak in warm water and dish soap.

Lightly primer everything.

For brushing Tamiya paints I always add around 10 drops of Tamiya Thinner to a 23ML bottle and mix well.

Most of my painting is done with a Fine Airbrush and the paint gets thinned a little more for airbrushing.

If you are brushings larger areas you will find the Thinner will evaporate and you may find it nessecary to add more thinner now and then...Espesially if it is hot where you are painting.

Karsten

Sean Hert · Post by **Sean Hert** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:43 pm

Tamiya paint really cannot be used on unprimed surfaces- it just beads up.

And if you are brush painting- good luck. Primed or not, it sucks to brush paint. I have have good success with spraying it, though.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:03 pm

Thanks guys. And if you don't mind - to save face - I'll remain 'just a Guest' on this thread...

Karsten · Post by **Karsten** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:17 am

Anonymous wrote:Thanks guys. And if you don't mind - to save face - I'll remain 'just a Guest' on this thread...

Humm, Like you thinks you are the 1st to mess up.

I wont even go into the learning curve do to trial, error and total FUBAR'ed efforts.

Karsten

Sean Hert · Post by **Sean Hert** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:28 am

I think I've still got the pieces from my last screw up- which I threw against the wall and then stomped on....

bucketfoot-al · Post by **bucketfoot-al** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:53 am

Karsten wrote:
Anonymous wrote:Thanks guys. And if you don't mind - to save face - I'll remain 'just a Guest' on this thread...

Humm, Like you thinks you are the 1st to mess up.

I wont even go into the learning curve do to trial, error and total FUBAR'ed efforts.

Karsten[/quote

*UNCLOAK* - Yeah, well, I figure that at least 100 of the multi-100s of hours I poured into finishing my Nichimo Yamato were spent correcting every error you can imagine - from re-painting, stripping, re-doing parts I broke, ungluing photoetch put in the wrong spot.....

Rodders · Post by **Rodders** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:45 am

Never ever try to brush paint Tamiya acrylic. It is total crap for brushing. There should be a warning on the jars to state this.
Only ever use Humbrol paints for brushing if you have no other choice.
Here in England we are somewhat spoiled for choice as there seems to be a plethora of different paints availlable from good model shops and of course the estimable White Ensign Models who have a paint for every occasion.
However, when thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinners Tamiya acrylic gives a good result by airbrush.
Today I did my Trumpy Hood's decks with XF78 Wooden deck tan thinned with X-20A Thinner. 5ml thinner to 10ml paint. Shaken not stirred gave a nice result using my 20 year old Badger air brush.
I hope my two pennorth is of use to some of you chaps.