Calling all Nagato (長門) and Mutsu (陸奥) fans

[ChrisC]

Sounds like building a late war ship wouldn't be too hard if there are a lot of suitable unused parts in the kit. Just gotta order a bunch of Lion Roar PE AA guns and go gray building all of them. Fixing the surface details should be half the "fun".

[Guest]

The Nagato kit hull is molded in 2 halves. But what is interesting is each halve is molded in 2 pieces. Most of the hull is one piece, and a small section of the hull between the hawse hole and the stem is molded separately.

If I were to guess from the parts breakdown, I will say that a Mutsu is in the works. A easy identifying feature that distinguishes Mutsu from Nagato is the towing fair lead near the bow. Both ships have large, prominent cast fairleads on eitherside near the bow, behind the imperial crest. However, Nagato's fairlead is further back, nearer to the hawse hole. Mutsu's is farther forward, nearer to the imperial crest,

[Dan K]

The hull breakdown also allows for as built straight stem insert. Maybe an early 30's version is in the works.

"Excel spreadsheet" - I like that, a perfect description.

[Paul O'Reilly]

Guys,

At the US Nationals last August I asked the rep there if a Mutsu was planned as I had noted the Nagato kit was configured to permit an easy change to the forepeak area. He implied there was a plan to do this but would not go so far as to actually confirm the plan.

Paul O'Reilly

[Guest]

The hull breakdown also allows for as built straight stem insert. Maybe an early 30's version is in the works.

Not really, the torpedo blister and extended stern are molded into the main hull. Early 1930 version had neither.

[Dan K]

Not really, the torpedo blister and extended stern are molded into the main hull. Early 1930 version had neither.

Good point. Unfortunately, molding separate blistees as Aoshima has done with the Takaos would not have helped in this case.

[skuki]

I have decided to fill most of the lines. All lines on the red hull have been filled.
I think that the quickest way is with spray primer.
I've used tamiya primer in spray, gave the hull three thick layers and sanded it away. It took me one afteroon, if I count the time it took me to dry, one day
Here are the pictures.

[les]

I was wondering why someone didn't think of that. In that scale, would the hull lines even be visable?

[Guest]

Actually, I did think of it. Wouldn't have bought the kit if I didn't.



But there is as yet no solution to the panel likes on the above water portion of the hull that does not involve removing all the details around the portholes.

[Tracy White]

In that scale, would the hull lines even be visable?

In that scale most shouldn't be, depending on the type of joint of course. Where you see it most is the weathering where the paint would chip off the corners and rust would appear in visible lines.

[Guest]

But you have to distinguish that which would make the model look realistic from that which actually is realistic to the scale adopted. There are many details which makes the model appear realistic, but which if were actually realistic would be essentially invisible.

[Tracy White]

But you have to distinguish that which would make the model look realistic from that which actually is realistic to the scale adopted.

No, actually, you have to decide what look you prefer and build as you see fit.

I'd fill them in, but there are many here who like the look.

[skuki]

I've finished. Lines are very slightly visible

Would I do it again? No.

[Guest]

BTW, I suspect the waterline marked on the Hasagawa kit is a little too high. The lowest roll of scuttles is improbably close to the waterline.

[skuki]

BTW, I suspect the waterline marked on the Hasagawa kit is a little too high. The lowest roll of scuttles is improbably close to the waterline.

Nope. It's ok.

[Werner]

The lowest level of scuttles did not survive to the end of her career. They probably existed only until the late 1930s, before which the battleships were seldom more than floating hotels.

[skuki]

Hi Skuki:
How long did it take you to fill the hull lines?

To fill the lines took me some 10 minutes. I used tamiya fine primer spray so it went very fast, about three layers of this primer each took me 3 or 4 minutes.

Then sanding that primer away took me some 40 minutes. all in all, if I count time needed to dry the primer, everything was over in one day.

[skuki]

Hi Skuki:
Any new progress? Please post photos for all of us to see.
Thanks!

Well Ok,
here are few fresh of the deck (Tamiya deck tan for base and tamiya deck tan with a bit og grey for overspray)

[MartinJQuinn]

Okay, I split what I thought was the pertinent info and put into this new thread on the Nagato class. Please post future updates here.

Nice work Marko! Please keep the progress pictures coming!

[Devin]

Marko,

Love the wood pattern. Did you mask at all to get that effect?

I've been experimenting with wood effects on WWI aircraft and a 1/96th USS Weehawken by using acrylic undercoats and glazes. I'm always looking for new processes to do wood.

-Devin