Newbie needs PE advice

[djphillyk]

Sorry for my lack of knowledge about modeling but here it goes...

I am about to work on an Italeri 1/350 Ticonderoga Class, CG 64 USS Gettysburg. I want this model to be as professional as possible.

How excatly does PE work? I have seen the GMM & WEM grids, Im just not sure how it all goes together/works? Do you cut out the railings? How do I go about this?

Also, do you have any recommendations about accesories to make this kit as realistic as possible?

[Kym Knight]

Both GMM and White Ensign have pretty detailed instructions with their sets, so understanding how to use it shouldn't be a problem.
Rusty White from Flagship Models produces a CD on How to use Photo-etch, which can be very usefull for beginners.
Follow this link to check it out.
http://www.flagshipmodels.com/flagship/HowTo_CDs.html

[Francisco P. de Nanclares]

Hi and welcome to this forum.

I am pretty new at employing PE, but I am pleased with the results so far and have not found any special difficulties. Just be slow and patient handling and applying glue (very little). Otherwise, the kits result greatly improved. Take a look at my Gettysburg, wich was built right out of the box except for some PE railing, surplus from a Panda Burke, and some work in the hangar (not seen on pics). I do not regard myself a good modeler, but still the model looks fairly good to me.

Good luck.

http://warshipmodels.com/~users/Pachi/Gettysburg2.jpg
http://warshipmodels.com/~users/Pachi/Gettysburg3.jpg

[djphillyk]

Pachi Thanks. Got any more pics?

[womble]

Sorry for my lack of knowledge about modeling but here it goes...

I am about to work on an Italeri 1/350 Ticonderoga Class, CG 64 USS Gettysburg. I want this model to be as professional as possible.

How excatly does PE work? I have seen the GMM & WEM grids, Im just not sure how it all goes together/works? Do you cut out the railsings? How do I go about this?

Also, do you have any recommendations about accesories to make this kit as realistic as possible?

Have a look in the FAQ or tips and hints sections on this site and also at steelnavy for info on PE application, I think the finescale site also has stuff relating to it as well. Practice makes perfect, start with an area that wont be seen too well!

[Rusty White]

Sorry for my lack of knowledge about modeling but here it goes...

I am about to work on an Italeri 1/350 Ticonderoga Class, CG 64 USS Gettysburg. I want this model to be as professional as possible.

How excatly does PE work? I have seen the GMM & WEM grids, Im just not sure how it all goes together/works? Do you cut out the railsings? How do I go about this?

Also, do you have any recommendations about accesories to make this kit as realistic as possible?

Your apprehension dealing with photo etch is justified. Most novices are intimidated by the small parts and thier delicacy. All photo etched parts are either folded together to achieve the final shape, or are cut and then custom bent to fit whatever they were designed to fit. I would suggest my "Working With photo Etched Parts "how to" CD. It covers just about every question you may ever have concerning photo etched parts and it comes with lots of color photos showing the various techniques described. If you have any other questions, feel free to email me anytime and I'll answer as best I can. I would also like to recommend the Flagship Models 1/350 Ticonderoga/Spruance/Kidd class super set for detailing your model. I recently re-tooled the set and I can say (I'm biased of course) it is THE definitive detail set made for the Tico/Sruance/Kidd class models. You can see the detail set on my web site.

Rusty White
Flagship Models Inc.
flagshipmodels.com

[Francisco P. de Nanclares]

Pachi Thanks. Got any more pics?

I got some more pics. Unfortunately I am out on a cyber and not able to post them. I will in ten days or two weeks. Will keep you up to date when I do.

[djphillyk]

I got some more pics. Unfortunately I am out on a cyber and not able to post them. I will in ten days or two weeks. Will keep you up to date when I do.

How did you make the water? That looks different from anything I have seen.

[Francisco P. de Nanclares]

I got some more pics. Unfortunately I am out on a cyber and not able to post them. I will in ten days or two weeks. Will keep you up to date when I do.

How did you make the water? That looks different from anything I have seen.

Just build a box with acryllic sheet (mine are 3 millimeter thick), cut the waterline on the top one (the tricky part)and then cover it with blue cellophane paper like that used by the kids for schoolwork. There is a clear blue paint from Tamiya, but not tried it yet.

[Francisco P. de Nanclares]

Here are more pics as you requested

http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/Pac ... burg15.jpg
http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/Pac ... burg16.jpg
http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/Pac ... burg17.jpg
http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/Pac ... burg22.JPG
http://www.warshipmodels.com/~users/Pac ... sburg6.JPG

Cheers

[GPaulC]

Re using PE, I too am a relative beginner. One tip I would give is PAINT FIRST STICK SECOND, especially with the very fine 1/700 parts. I glued the catapults and scaffolding on my Hyuga first then painted them. Unfortunately the glue had formed a skin between girders and I ended up with patches of solid paint whicw ruined the effect. I painted the searchlight towers for my Suzuya first and then left them to dry for 24 hrs. They were easily bent into shape without disturbing the paint and when glued look excellent. Looking back it is common sense but experience comes at a price I guess.

[coberg1]

if you make a mistake like that just take the offending piece back off and throw it into a glass of acetone, that will remove all the paint and glue almost instantly leaving the piece to be reglued and painted like new.
(I buy acetone by the gallon)

[Rusty White]

Re using PE, I too am a relative beginner. One tip I would give is PAINT FIRST STICK SECOND, especially with the very fine 1/700 parts. I glued the catapults and scaffolding on my Hyuga first then painted them. Unfortunately the glue had formed a skin between girders and I ended up with patches of solid paint whicw ruined the effect. I painted the searchlight towers for my Suzuya first and then left them to dry for 24 hrs. They were easily bent into shape without disturbing the paint and when glued look excellent. Looking back it is common sense but experience comes at a price I guess.

Everyone,

ALWAYS paint the parts before installing or bending them to shape. The best way to do this is to airbrush the entire fret the most prevelant color of the ship. Other parts like funnell grilles and radars can be painted after the first color sets. IF you choose to use a brush on these parts (I wouldn't recommend it) use extremely thin paint to prevent cloging the delicate parts. Once bent to shape, you can go back and do touchups where the paint flakes away. You're right. Experience is the best teacher. I can explain techniques until I'm blue in the face, but sooner or later you're going to have to DO it yourself. FWIW.

[Francisco P. de Nanclares]

Thanks for the help, Rusty. Appreciated.

[richter111]

Getting tips from people like Rusty White are one of the reasons why this board is so good. Not only does he know his stuff, but he makes a darn fine product.

Ric

[chang2103]

do i use super glue? for pe? or just regular plastic model glue?

[Rusty White]

do i use super glue? for pe? or just regular plastic model glue?

Super glue (Cynoacylate) is the preferred glue for photo etch and resin parts because it glues both. Better hobby shops now carry super glues in different thicknesses. Personally, I like the gap filling (extra thick), but that's me. I would suggest you purchase a small bottle of each and find the one that best suits you. Thin glues doesn't work well because they're.... TOO THIN. It's thin like water, and will not adhear to applicators in drops large enough to do any good. Ay least that's been my experience with it.

Since you're new to photo etch I would suggest you purchase my "how to" CD, "Working With Photo Etched Parts". It covers just about anyhting you wish to ask on the subject. You can see it on my web site (flagshipmodels.com).

[Mike C]

ALWAYS paint the parts before installing or bending them to shape.

I disagree with the "always" part of Rusty's statement. I always paint rails before use, but I prefer to paint radars and other complex assemblies with an airbrush after bending and glueing. Glueing before painting gives a stronger bond and I like to fill bend gaps with super glue and sand the edge joints square. A layer of paint makes that difficult.

[Pieter]

I think both Rusty and Mike are right, sometimes you paint the PE before you apply the glue, sometimes you don't. The main problem with painting afterwards is the (in) ability to reach the parts you want to paint if you're a brush painter like me. Using a good, fine grained primer like Tamiya superfine while the PE is still on te sprue is neccesary if you brush piant PE. Use fine pigment paint with a good amount of thinner and be sure you have good (=EXPENSIVE) brushes and some brush painting experiences. I find myself more and more using Model Master acrylics, especially their figure painting range. Most of my PE radars are "Dragon Black". After all the painting and touch ups are done finish with a Dullcote spray can (one or two very light layers otherwise it yellows) to tone down the shine. Applying PE becomes different however if your PE has to carry some other parts or has to have tension applied to it (rigging for example). After priming the PE and freeing the parts from the 'sprue' you scratch away the layer of primer on the parts that have to be glue and use a good (Industial strenght) CA glue on those parts. CA takes a few days to gain it's full strength and it is not a good idea to touch up paint or apply rigging beforhand - I partially unrigged a Sktrex frigate once because of this problem.

[Anonymous]

I assume I need to clean the PE first, but should it be primed before painting? How is the primer applied, airbrush?