Dave Wooley wrote:Hi Russ How do you eliminate , as much as possible the air bubbles in the resin? Thanks for posting the pictures , every bit helps.
Dave Wooley
hi dave,the casting resin i,m using is supper thin,you can stir the heck out of it and no bubbles,it also sets up in less than 5 min.
the moulding stuff is a differant story,know matter how slow or carefull you are you get bubbles, make sure master is sealed good to bottum of mould frame or air will sneak out from under master.after pour i put it on my jig saw and run it slow so it vibrates gets rid of most bubbles
heres soom small stuff,deck whinchs are about 3/8 " long
Hi Russ Thanks for that Must have a go .
Dave Wooley
hi guys i think sean is right my moulding and casting stuff is bad, not happy with results,going to remould,recast ,most stuff.the casts i made for massachusetts last year tuned out good.
besides do not have good pics of 57mm,and 100mm,s.
heres 2 pics of 57mm,s which one is right .bottum pic has larger base.
i kind of came to a standstill on the hull,waiting for decking. heres some pics of roughed in superstructure,i,m trying to model her around 1953.john has been more than helpfull in getting the right cofiquerations on guns and decks, plans in 1/300 arrived from france, nice details of small parts. will have to redraw to 1/192
well i,m back at it,took summer off,to nice to work in doors.after waiting for months for decking i tried bluejacket shipcrafters,it came within two weeks,very good service. heres a few pics.
A very interesting build... and the choice of ship... The French surely designed elegant and impressive ships... Looking forward to more pics and updates...
NIKOS (NICK)
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(GREAT IS THE NATION THAT MASTERS THE SEAS)
been working on secondary guns,lots of head scratching, looking at pictures for details . also working on superstructure,very hard to figure out what drawing our pic goes with what year of rebuild 1949 to 1955. some drawings have 1950 and 1955 stuff on same drawing it seems to me. but am haveing fun trying to figure it out ,whereing out my computer hers a few pics,
over on model warships underway norberto is starting a 1/100 bismark ,very,very nice. i built a 1/200 kgv 2 years ago and made my own props,they are realy the shits.,so i desided to try again. hers what i did. i used square and sheet styrene. i rounded the square stock except where the blades fit,i think they came out not bad.cost 25 cents a prop instead of 18 bucks. my models are not powered so strength not important.
Last edited by russclark on Sun Nov 02, 2008 9:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
well after much thought i decided to model my 15"guns without blast bags.i am going to pretend the french needed fresh air in the turret ,and besides the bags make the barrels look short and they are ugly .the metal doors and flaps look better sould look like this .
i found a great tool for making port hole covers in all kind of sizes, it belonged to my grandfather,its a leather punch,has about 20 differant punchs.also a couple of build pics
Hi Russ Your turrets are looking really good I also like the punch , I have one and it's a very useful tool . I must admit I'm not that keen on the challenging task of prop making, a bit to difficult for me . Thanks for taking time and posting up your progress build photos .
Dave Wooley
thanks dave not up to your standards, but every ship i do gets better. i am posting a pic of sample paint job,if you look close you can see there are 2 differant colors on funnel and superstructure. which one is better. i tried painting scrapes to see how it looked but the only way was to paint some of the ship.i used spray cans .also any of the paint brands it doesnt matter if its tamiya, humbolt or testers, spray can and bottles of the same colors do not match. this is driving me nuts trying to find two colors that match.
the to samples on the boat i used light ghost gray and primer, in the background kgv is light sea gray all are tamiya , p.s lower part of j.b is light ghost gray
Hi Russ I know only to well the problem your having. . Like you I was experiencing the same problems in matching paints and could never really achieved the results I wanted. On my previous model I was recommended to try WEM . The results were spot on. I can order knowing that the next batch will be identical to the first.
Dave Wooley
Great build so far. I have always liked the French inter war BB and BC ever since I started building those 1/400 Heller kits in high school. I agree with Dave, try the WEM paints. I have used them and never had a problem with the paints not matching between tins.(I should hope there are no problems as my DDE will take a little more than just 1 tin )
hers a few pics, 
