vittorio veneto class scratch build

[russclark]

i am very early into this project ,trying to get information on everything,does anyone know who has the best plans in1/200 or 1/192 scale .have ordered from taubman plans,but its very slow in coming ,any other suppliers out there .looking for feedback on just about anything to do with this class of ship.i see there's a subject called 1/200 roma,wondering if i should combine my subject there.

[fooman2008]

The WWII Italian battleships always did fascinate me (I actually considered one briefly before deciding on Idaho) They were were very pretty (there is a theory that if it looks good it will be a good sea boat) it was a shame they were so poorly handled tactically and strategically. The modern Italian navy always (when we steamed with them) always did seem to balk at the rock of Gibraltar, and refused to go much further but then they did rule the med.....

[Sean Hert]

I believe those 1/200 plans are the same ones I have in 1/144 and in 1/350- if so, they're pretty good.

[russclark]

thanks sean ,all i need is for them to arrive.

[Ludwig]

Hello russclark,

I have bought my copies of vittorio Veneto class battleships at www.anb-online.org.

regards,

Ludwig

[russclark]

well my plans arrived,good and bad news good news is thay are here, but there is no deck drawings above main deck, no way of telling exactly what they look like. thankfully i have a book i bought years ago that has pretty good pics and info.its called battleships axis and neutral battleships in ww2. i paid $60 for it in 1979 . i now have to make up my mind which one to build.

[fooman2008]

Russ.
Here is an interesting paint scheme, it for Roma but it would be great looking on one of your fantastic models.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/c ... Roma56.jpg
sorry couldn't get it to send the image for you so I pasted the link instead
Foo

[russclark]

i,m not that fussy about camouflage paint jobs,to busy ,my vittorio veneto may end up being roma after all.the plans i got are unuseable for me not enough deck elevations,some measurements are out by 1/4 " from one view to the next, hull frames don,t look right, i have built things before when i was not sure exactly what it looked like,then worked around a screw up for the rest of the build. i ordered new plans they are for roma , 3 times the cost but maybe they are 3 times as good . this is putting things on hold for a little bit. i guess you get what you pay for.

[109]

Hi,

here is a link to a wonderful 1/100th scale model of ROMA:

http://www.nikonland.eu/foto/showgallery.php/cat/637

Bye,

Bernd.

[russclark]

Hi,

here is a link to a wonderful 1/100th scale model of ROMA:

http://www.nikonland.eu/foto/showgallery.php/cat/637

Bye,

Bernd.

i have that link already ,but thanks .i heard that it took 10 years to build,as others have said if i had 1,000,000 years i still would not come close to being as good.but it sure gives somthing to shoot for.

[JIM BAUMANN]

I have some plans in 1:100

Drop me a line off list-- maybe I can help...!

JIM B

[russclark]

well i am waiting for new plans i decided to make some guns, the masters are in front,the large guns are correct to scale the small a.a guns are not,have no reference to correct size yet. i am playing with them to see which ones look right there are 5 differant ones in pics 20 mm and 37 mm ,single and double barreled.also look at the snow outside,2 ft and more to come on thuesday.i hate making moulds you never know if there going to come out of o.k or stick to master and leave a blemish. also wondering if anyone has had moulds deteriorate after about 10 castings,my 90 mm guns which there are 12 ,the last 2 ruined the mould. did not release properly. maybe my release agent is no good.

[russclark]

well i am starting roma in 1/200 have enough info to start the hull. it will be plank on frame. center board is 1/4" plywood the frames will be 1/8" plywood , 34 of them.sheating will be one layer of 1/8" balsa ,on the compound curves it will be two layers of 1/16", then soaked with resin to bind every thing together and filled with bondo , i am then thinking of sheeting it with styrene, the same way jose did. it looks very cool.
unless there is someone who wants to see this process i will not post pics until i start on the styrene sheeting.best of the new year to all

[Jose Chaica]

... then soaked with resin to bind every thing together and filled with bondo , i am then thinking of sheeting it with styrene...

Hi russ
I just answered your question on my topic.
Is this going to be static or R/C ? If you�re going to build a static only model, you could go straight to sheeting with plastic after the balsa covering, and dispense the resin and filler. It will not bring any advantage. It will only make your model weight increase.

.

[russclark]

... then soaked with resin to bind every thing together and filled with bondo , i am then thinking of sheeting it with styrene...

Hi russ
I just answered your question on my topic.
Is this going to be static or R/C ? If you�re going to build a static only model, you could go straight to sheeting with plastic after the balsa covering, and dispense the resin and filler. It will not bring any advantage. It will only make your model weight increase.

.

hello jose,model will be static ,the glue you use is the same as i use good stuff. i will still slop resin all over it,holds everything together in case glue lets go.also i think it gives a better base for contact cement to hold onto.thank you for the advice on sheeting,you are right there is no need to be realy fussy with the planking. thanks for the help.oh buy the way do you plank the hull first or put on the deck first.

[russclark]

are you there jose,i was wondering about sheeting with styrene,do you glue the sheeting to the hull or just to the strips,also in 1/200 what thickness of styrene would you use.i,m getting close to trying it, i am a little worried as to lineing up sheets on compound curves,as you know it will probably throw things out of alinement. i know what happens when planking and you hit compound curves ,you end up having to cut pieses to fill in the gaps.just wondering what you do ,i have'nt got there yet it might end up just fine.

[russclark]

thanks for that david,that is a different approach than jose used. maybe a combination of methods will work for me.

[Jose Chaica]

I only use .5mm plastic when sheeting the hull. 1mm is too thick to bend properly.
Well, first I glued (and nailed) thin strips (2/3 cm wide) to the balsa covered hull, spaced some 20cm apart, were the main hull frames meet the same balsa hull. Each strip must have sufficient width to hold in place two rectangles. Then, I cut those rectangles that will cover all the hull, from side-to-side, no more than 20cm wide (the distance between strips previously placed on the hull). In compound curves (near the bow or near the stern), rectangles won�t fit. You�ll have to measure each space between strips one-by-one, and then cut, and make some adjustments, so that the strip you cut will be able to fit within the limits of the strip you have placed in the hull. Was I clear enough ? It�s easier to do, than to describe.

.

[russclark]

thanks jose,that helps i will take your word that it"s easier to do than discribe. on the manila bay you prepped the hull for a glass finish before disciding to sheet it with styrene, if you did it again would you be as fussy with it before sheating it. i am at that point now and can,t make up my mind as to fill in all the little blemishs or sheet over it .

[Jose Chaica]

... i am at that point now and can,t make up my mind as to fill in all the little blemishs or sheet over it .

I came to the conclusion, after sheeting the whole hull with styrene, that I had spent to much time trying to get the hull as smooth as possible. It will all be hidden. In the hull I�m now building, Yorktown, I won�t take that much time, with filler and sanding, for sure. I�m going to sheet with plastic, again.

.