YTL-710 in 1:10

In progress online builds of Scratchbuilt ships of all scales. Remote Control and Static Display.

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PATMAT
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Power of CAD

Post by PATMAT »

If you have the 1:1 displacement of a ship, you can quickly calculate your model's displacement (weight)-- 1:1 disp / scale^3 . But I don't have a reliable figure for this tug... so using my 2D CAD model, I quickly tallied up the submerged area of each frame, averaged neighboring pairs, multiplied by the station spacing, and tallied up all the volumes to get 1630 cubic inches displacement. Multiply by .036 lb/in^3 water density, and wow, about 59 lbs! Not atypical for a large model like this, but more than I expected.

If I load it light and show about 1/2" of red bottom, it goes down to about 50 lbs.

With about 20 lbs of battery and drive gear, that leaves 29 lbs for structure and ballast. I don't have the hull and cabin weights yet, but I guess I should protect for 10-15 lbs of lead. I'll design in removable containers (like capped PVC pipe) to hold the lead shot; knowing the density and packing factor of lead shot, that lets me design the right volume into the pipes.
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
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rmay
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by rmay »

Yea that was the problem with the 45" model YTL I built. I had to add so much weight to get it down to the WL that is wasn't easy to move around. I like your idea about PVC pipe. That would be much easier then the weights I added at lake side. Looking great so far!
PATMAT
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by PATMAT »

Planking continues.
Had to re-set up my plank factory-- underestimated the requirement by about a dozen.
Attachments
more planks.
more planks.
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
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ARH
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by ARH »

Pat, Thats one of the best planked hulls I have seen for a long while. :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:
Simple but effective.
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les
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by les »

Arrrgh, the last one you saw was the one you had to walk, you scurvy dog!! :woo_hoo:
Any ship larger than a Destroyer is a waste of metal.
PATMAT
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by PATMAT »

Thanks Ron, but you can only say that because I don't show close ups!
And sorry about the pirate thing, did I leave the door unlocked??
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
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desron48
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by desron48 »

exelent piece of craftsmenship there pat....sorry you gotta cover it up with glass and paint :thumbs_up_1: .....joe
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ARH
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by ARH »

PATMAT wrote:Thanks Ron, but you can only say that because I don't show close ups!
And sorry about the pirate thing, did I leave the door unlocked??




I dont need close up,s to tell a nice piece of work, :thumbs_up_1: :thumbs_up_1:

as for leaving the door open, them pirates will get in to anything, thats why the RN are always on stand by, and building new ships. :heh: :heh:
Simple but effective.
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les
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by les »

ARH said:
them pirates will get in to anything, thats why the RN are always on stand by, and building new ships.
Because we sunk all the old ones! :woo_hoo:
Any ship larger than a Destroyer is a waste of metal.
PATMAT
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Off the board

Post by PATMAT »

Popped in the last plank, and popped the hull off the board.

MUCH more to do! Build the skeg, sand/fill/glass/sand/fill/sand/paint... and maybe some interior finishing too... and that's all before adding the deck and bulwarks... wait, no, I need to mount bulwarks before glass, and finish interior before deck, and the deck goes on before the bulwarks... um, no, wait- I think I'll have a beer...
Attachments
d0366.jpg
d0367.jpg
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
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desron48
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by desron48 »

a ship that size with all the detail and still tote under your arm.....what more can you ask for??...joe :thumbs_up_1:
rmay
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by rmay »

This is the dust jacket of a book my wife gave me for Christmas a few years ago. Nice book for those who like Tugs!
Attachments
Picture-313.jpg
PATMAT
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by PATMAT »

A nice little ST tug with a number of modifications visible...
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
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PATMAT
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Progress? What progress?

Post by PATMAT »

Been working most the day on this, and I don't know where all the time went!

But added some bracing here and there, things are getting more solid all the time.
Attachments
Formers on the skeg will define the "facet" faces. Prop tube loosely in place.
Formers on the skeg will define the "facet" faces. Prop tube loosely in place.
Inside, the prop tube on its support, will be rock solid. Tube gets a grease tube with zerk fitting... I'll either run it to the manhole (tape roll) or just inside the cabin, with an "S" bend. The doubled beams are the foundation for the towing bitt.
Inside, the prop tube on its support, will be rock solid. Tube gets a grease tube with zerk fitting... I'll either run it to the manhole (tape roll) or just inside the cabin, with an "S" bend. The doubled beams are the foundation for the towing bitt.
Overall view... retaining frame for the poop hatch is let into the cant frames. Gussets on the frames at either end of the cabin will allow the boat to be picked up there (though not highly recommended).
Overall view... retaining frame for the poop hatch is let into the cant frames. Gussets on the frames at either end of the cabin will allow the boat to be picked up there (though not highly recommended).
Frame gussets just visible at the forward cabin opening. Coaming comes after the deck is installed.
Frame gussets just visible at the forward cabin opening. Coaming comes after the deck is installed.
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
Blog: [redacted]
Shapeways Shop: [redacted]
MWS Gallery: http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
ingura

Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by ingura »

...
Last edited by ingura on Sun Oct 31, 2010 7:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
PATMAT
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Skeg & Prop tube

Post by PATMAT »

Closed up the skeg with plywood, and arranged the prop shaft tube and its greasing fitting.

The tube is by Raboesch-- their biggest one, 6mm shaft for M5 prop, big honkin' tube with Oilite bearing below and ball bearing above. It also comes with a grease tube and zerk fitting, which you can arrange as liked.

I put the fitting in a well under the poop deck manhole... the well is turned from a 1-1/2" PVC pipe cap. The grease tube is silver soldered for strength, but the design completely supports both the prop tube and grease tube so that no load will go into them during over-zealous grease-gunning.
Attachments
Plywood over frames gives the desired faceted look. Epoxy resin and glass will seal it up tight.
Plywood over frames gives the desired faceted look. Epoxy resin and glass will seal it up tight.
General arrangement of the prop shaft and grease tubes.
General arrangement of the prop shaft and grease tubes.
Grease tube fitting under the well.
Grease tube fitting under the well.
Well in place, and zerk installed.
Well in place, and zerk installed.
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
Blog: [redacted]
Shapeways Shop: [redacted]
MWS Gallery: http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
PATMAT
Posts: 442
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by PATMAT »

More frame art...
Attachments
Right down the center!
Right down the center!
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
Blog: [redacted]
Shapeways Shop: [redacted]
MWS Gallery: http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
PATMAT
Posts: 442
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Motor & Battery

Post by PATMAT »

Here's the first look at the motor and battery loosely in place.

Motor is a nice old Pittman that turns the big prop at the right RPM. Battery is a 12v 12Ah unit that looks tiny in the hull, but its capacity should drive the low-draw motor a good 2 hours.
Coupler is the Robbe spline unit, 6mm x 1/4" with a spacer in between to provide the proper double cardan configuration. Even using lasers and my angle finder, small misalignments are inevitable, and a double cardan minimizes any resulting vibrations.
Attachments
The Driveline
The Driveline
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
Blog: [redacted]
Shapeways Shop: [redacted]
MWS Gallery: http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
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Reid
Posts: 436
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Re: YTL-710 in 1:10

Post by Reid »

WOW!!! looks what heppens went u go away for afew days... pat is almost done with his boat!! :big_grin: :big_grin:

that looks great pat!! and u are sooo fast!!
Reid, PIO of the 48th Fleet
http://www.48thfleet.com
PATMAT
Posts: 442
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Interior decorating

Post by PATMAT »

It's really best to do all the equipment installations before finishing the hull interior, and certainly before attaching the deck.

Here, I've put in a battery tray and a removable electronics shelf. Again, having a CAD layout let me design the shelf and its supports for a near-perfect fit... a luxury I miss when working on commercial f/g hulls.

Also, found that the bent aluminum motor mount that came with the Pittman was too flimsy and ugly for my taste, so a wood one was made from 1/4" ply.
Attachments
Battery tray and shelf supports.
Battery tray and shelf supports.
Battery and shelf in place.
Battery and shelf in place.
New motor mount... that'll hold her!
New motor mount... that'll hold her!
Pat Matthews
Get your boats wet!
Blog: [redacted]
Shapeways Shop: [redacted]
MWS Gallery: http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
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