YTL-710 in 1:10

[sdav834]

Patmat,
I have gone thru your build log several times over trying to absorb your techniques for my next build, a 1/20 steam powered Clyde Puffer which will translate to 51" X 13.5".

Several questions:
1) Can't see clearly, but are you using 1/4 in. ply for your keel ?
2) Do you butt joint or overlap joint the 'futtocks' for your formers ?

Appreciate your help.

Dave

Now it's time to start planking!

[PATMAT]

Dave-

The keel is 1/4" poplar (i.e., wood of convenience...).

You should be able to see the overlapped futtocks at the previous post:
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=38687#p254446

in the drawing and the part.


Pat

[PATMAT]

Here's the final effort on the tug's wheel, about 4 inch diameter.

[PATMAT]

Took some more time out from sealing/sanding the rub and cap rails to start building the towing bitts (short attention span, I guess...).

Bitts are turned from PVC rod, and are about 1 inch in diameter. Set into the framework in the deck with 1/4"-20 screws with nuts from below. Steel cross rod, and the gussets are plywood, to be covered with styrene. The gussets will be glued to the base, so even with the screw fastening, the bitt won't be removable.

Since these bitts will be used for real towing, the gussets couldn't just be butt-glued to the bitts... so I rigged a "milling" setup on the lathe to machine grooves to accept the gussets. Rock solid.

[Laurent]

Hi ,

what I always have had wondered, is why on US tugs, there are almost never quick release towing hooks .

I now know that those tugs most of the times never "tow", but prefer to take the load ( boat , barge , whatever ) alongside instead of astern, hence the name "tug" , I guess ...

a lot of those tugs went to Europe during the war, and stayed there , but the first thing the european towing companies buying such tugs did, was to put a quick realease hook

Regards ,

Laurent

[PATMAT]

Ah, but US tugs carry a very cost effective "quick release"!

[PATMAT]

Every now and then, I have to pause for a "how big is it?" shot.

[PATMAT]

Couldn't wait any longer, had to start on the "house". This thing rivals dollhouses I've seen-- in fact, it's actually a larger scale than most 1:12 dollhouses.

But the large scale allows for certain tricks-- like workable sliding windows. Here you can see one wall being built, with a core and skins, creating a pocket for the real glass window. I'll build up the structure and paint it (less roof), drop the window assemblies in to the open pockets, then seal up the headers.

[Richard OMalley]

Very nice build. I am working on a 3/8th scale plug of a towboat.I will send you a photo when it's done.You do very good work.
Richard

[PATMAT]

Thanks!
and can't wait to see. But don't just show me-- post it here, or if not a warship subject, then at RC Groups:
http://www.rcgroups.com/scale-boats-55/ , where tugs are really appreciated!

Pat

[Richard OMalley]

Hi Patmat
I am working on the 105ft tow-boat Karen Tibbetts 1956.She is out of NY city and I took pictures of her at Boston MA in 1989.I got the plans from her designer.I will not be building the hole model . just the fibre-glass hull.
I have a post on this sight " scratchbuilding the IJN Heavy Cruiser Takao in1/96 " I will be doing the hole model.Check it out and tell me if I should post the tow-boat hull making on the RC sight.
Keep up the good work
Richard

[PATMAT]

Nothing wrong with that Takao! And the RC Groups guys LOVE to see tugs (or even just hulls) going together. You might even find some customers... and it's easier to post there, too...

[PATMAT]

It's always fun at those moments when things start to fall together... I've been working for days on the pilothouse walls and floor, with nothing but a pile of parts to look at. Then I stick them together, and wow! Instant progress!

So here's the main part of the "house"... the rest of the "trunk" will go together much faster, as it doesn't have the complex windows. Still a lot of details to make though...

[PATMAT]

What's the big deal with the cabin, it's just a box? Right?
Well, it's taking a while because it's BIG, and all the pieces have to fit just so. Hardly a straight line to be found... it follows the sheer of the deck and is cambered crosswise... compound angles, radiused corners, and did I mention, BIG? And it has to lift off (just like the original could, this was a truckable tug...), and it can't fall apart when lifted. Corners are gusseted and cross beams hold the width, so I feel safe lifting the structure off and putting it back on, and it slips onto the coaming SO nicely...

More to do here... styrene "plating" to finish, have to skin the stack... but the major structural work is almost done. Then it's just details, details...

[Guest]

"Hate to knock a guy when he's dead, but the late Tom Hershey's tug " Not to join in, but I also noticed the front ports were at the wrong level when I built mine. But of course after looking at how good yours is coming out - I won't throw rocks! I see so many things I would go back and change on my tug. Oh well, that was only my third scratch build, so what the heck - live and learn.

[Cadman]

Pat how are you doing the raised lip around the doors?

[rmay]

Sorry, "Guest" was Me!

[PATMAT]

Pat how are you doing the raised lip around the doors?

"Flat" part is just a cutout, while the lip is just a strip glued around the inside of the door frame. Not quite right, there should be a ledge inside for the dogs to engage on... I'll think of something!
The doors are about 6" high... I'm thinking vac-formed...

[PATMAT]

Every night, a little more!

Wrapped the stack's skeleton with 2 layers of 1/64" plywood (3 layers of 0.005" veneers- wow, how do they do that??), and then a layer of styrene for the steel look. Strong. Needs detailing still.

Built a plywood bench in the back of the wheel house... not much luxury in this little boat!

The ceiling is removable for now to allow for interior construction access, but will be fixed permanently in place and then topped with the roof panel later. Life is easier if you predrill the beams for the wiring! Roof will carry nav lights, search light, and interior cabin light. All in good time.

The wheelhouse floor will be removable for slightly more difficult access later on, but it's still pretty big. The speaker mounts in this floor, which is drilled through and then loosely covered with styrene. With the windows open, sound will get out just fine, and the entire hull will be the speaker enclosure.

[PATMAT]

As can be seen in the photo below, the ST/YTL tugs have vertical sliding windows-- just like most all tugs. In this scale, I figured I had little excuse for not making mine function.

So again, the walls are built with pockets. and the frames accept the sliding windows. Here's my first one, which features styrene sash frames and 1/16" thick real glass. The glass is cut a little narrower than the frame, and some braided nylon line is laid into the sides to give some friction. Kind of a pain actually, getting the fit just right.