Resin Hulls

[Gone Asiatic]

Inspecting my recently received Samek Models 1/700 USS ALASKA, I found the hull to be warped with a bit of an arched midships section - the centre of the waterline hull doesn`t touch the surface for a good 3/4 the length of the ship.

How best to flatten this out?

Otherwise an excellent kit.

[KV_Pharaoh]

I had the opposite problem with my ISW HMCS Halifax. The bow and stern were raised(Or midships was lowered) and it didn't sit flat. To fix it I turned the oven on 300 degrees and let it preheat, and then placed the ship in the oven for 15 minutes and simply pressed the bow and stern down on the counter until it was flat. Someone else may have a different or faster method...but I found that one worked pretty quickly and easily. This was a 1/350 scale ship as well, so you might not want to leave it in more than 10 minutes since it's smaller. I would try it for 10 minutes...if it bends great, if not put it in a little longer.

Hope that helps.

[Pieter]

A 1/350 hull contains a lot more resin compared to a 1/700 hull. 15 minutes in a hot oven will probably reduce your hull to a blob of resin. First time I straightened a hull (1/700 Saida) I let normal hot tap water of at least 60 degrees celsius (legionella regulations) run over it for a few minutes. When it was soft to the touch I bent the hull carefully (using gloves!) and fastened her to a straight piece of steel using clamps. When it had cooled off I glued it to the base (simpel piece of wood). That was 4 years ago and it was still straight when I looked 30 seconds ago.

[Ron Smith]

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[patiens]

You have many pitfalls with resin, especially if it's your first. Number one, the hull, top and bottom, should be washed in mild detergent, then a wipe with isopropyl alcohol helps. This removes the chemical agents which will destroy your paint job otherwise. Dry it and start shaving the overpour from the waterline and bottom sections. Last time I used a jig (scroll) saw. It took me 2 days. This latest opus I used a Delta modeler's power sander -- took me 45 minutes. (No plug or whatever for them -- just that it worked) If after shaving it seems warped, go for the oven trick. When you glue the top and bottom halves together, work quickly but carefully with the CA glue. Don't do like I did on one job: make sure the stuff hasn't expired -- CA has a shelf life of about six months. You're still in the phase where a big goof can ruin a several-hundred-dollar kit. Grab some small/medium C-clamps, insert some cardboard, and clamp the hull part together. Don't worrry about gaps. When it has dried, ther will still be some gaps or imperfections. Take a tube of Squadron White Putty and butter the whole thing. Then sculpt/sand. Should take you 3 or 4 shots of this process, but you will wind up with one fine hull. Then go and have a nervous breakdown in the next room and go back to the model in a day or two. Put a primer coat of gray on it (use a spray can or an airbrush -- resin does not get along with paint brushes) Then paint the antifouling red on the bottom and put on a black boot. Use 3M black art supply tape or Frisket for masking. You are now ready for the deck and superstructure.

[Ron Smith]

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[Joe Brown]

I bought the Viking kit of the USS TEXAS years back when it first came out and just took it down off the shelf thinking I might finally start working on it.There is a good 3/8 bow in the hull.With the hull being SOLID RESIN can I warm it up enough to straighten it out before melting the details???Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.