1/350 USS New (DDE-818)

[Rui Matos]

Hi Carl

I gave it (the idea) and now it's for every one to use it - Hmmm royalties would be a good idea
Cheers,
Rui

See, Christian? I told you it was Rui's idea!

Sorry for the absence on comments Christian (reason: Telford)

I think that if you make (IMHO) some of the racks covered with canvas and with the flip open so that the details can be seen, and have the "trouble" to make some ammo clips (one and the resin copy a few more) it would be a much interesting situation.
When on sea, and if not on battle stations, most ready ammo lockers are canvas covered

You are detailing your DDE in a very good way.
I am following this built with much interest (even if there's no DD/DE in the next projects list)

Tschuss
Rui

[navydavesof]

Thanks!
Dave, I have used the single 5�/38 � box #350-001! The part fits well to the new Mk. 15 Hedgehog! Thanks for your comment

Christian,

Thank you very much. I ordered a set from Pacific Front, and I am very pleased with them. I am surprised with the detail. The base rings, like the one you used, will be great for a few other things, including modern 5" guns as well.

Keep up the posts. Your work is very inspirational.

-dave

[Kym Knight]

Hey Christian, I've built half a dozen (resin) US destroyers and found them quite boring (in design), but the detail your adding to this kit puts it in a whole new league of excellence. Great job.

[Christian Bruer]

@Rui and Carl, I�m thinking about your sugesstion about the rack covers

@Dave, I�m pleased to hear you�ve got one, and yes, the detail is quite good!

@Kim, thank you for your kind comment!

Back to USS New! Today I start working on the base. I have used Styrodur, a more compressed sort of Styrofoam. That was the first time I shaped a seabase for a larger model, and shaping the compressed stuff was not as easy as I thought. In the end I used a knife to shape the rough base and then sanding paper for the finer work.
Before I cut out the ships section I shaped at first the whole display (the display is arpox. 25cm x 55cm). In the second step I cut out the ship section slightly smaller than the ships outline and fitted the hull by shaping the ships outline with sanding paper. I would like to display the model making a starboard turn with the starboard lower hull coming out of the water. The underwater bow can also be seen.

I�m curious what you think of that!

[Bigdaddy Mark]

I like the look. When I do my USS The Sullivans I think I will try the compressed foam. I am going to have heavy rolling seas, and I think the way you did it gives more control over the rolling waves. Thanks for the idea.

[Christian Bruer]

I like the look. When I do my USS The Sullivans I think I will try the compressed foam. I am going to have heavy rolling seas, and I think the way you did it gives more control over the rolling waves. Thanks for the idea.

Hi again,

@Mark, that was not my idea but a copy of a method my German Gambler friends tried out. Nice that it would work for you also!


Making the main work with the display at the last weekend I spent some time during the week to built some more kit parts. One of the remaining assemblies are the stacks.

Because of the scratch build tripod mast I was a little bit hesitate about the fitting of the siren and whistle platform at the forward stack next to the tripod mast! I used the platforms form GMM�s PE set. Because the whistle and the siren as well as the pipes are not included in the kit, I have made my own ones from brass rod, and styrene rod and flat bars. I have made several test fits to be sure it works well with the aft cross bar. Believe me, that makes me some nervous moments! The stacks aren't finished yet, there are some antennas, grill cover etc. to add.
Respective to some photos of post war Gearing class destroyers I have added two more vents to the 1. deck level. One on port, aft the tripod mast, one starboard next to the aft stack.

[Rui Matos]

Hallo Christian

Two different points/comments:
1 - The sea:
I like the idea of a hard turn to starboard, but you will have to make a good wake.
Just like you have it right now, it seems a little unbalanced... with the bow too high, for the maneuver and also with that sea state (relatively calm) - but I can be wrong!
Consider this a comment of a guy who thinks it makes better water than the ship/submarine models

2 - The Mast and Funnel:
Flawless work, but you can improve it more with a little whistle reshape

Keep up the excellent work!
Tschuss
Rui

[Finland's Jonne]

You have done so SUPER good!

Rui Matos has gave good points and comments

I'm agree with Rui about your work



Joe

[Christian Bruer]

Hi again,

@Rui and Joe, thanks for your comments!

@Rui, resp. the sea base I thought about the same since I have done the base so far! Well I believe I will spent some time sanding the base again in my workshop next weekend
About the whistle, mmhh, the whistle looks ok to me but can you explain more particular what you have meant.

[NukeMM]

Truly, Awesome, Christian!

If I may...........maybe I can assist Rui with his whistle detail suggestion.

First of all, will these items be painted black along with the funnel of the stack? I have found that tiny details and detail imperfections can get lost in the dark black of this area. I often count on this to hide my imperfections but, I won't be able to use that trick on my USS Oyster Bay. This area wasn't black nor was the mast. I usually hide my rigging attachements in amongst the black.

Otherwise, and I hope you don't mind, here are some drawings of Small Seaplane Tender (AVP) whistles and siren. It looks like your white whistle is the right shape but, could it be just a little too, big? Just the tinyest bit?

I scratch built the whistle and siren on my USCGC Bering Strait as well as on the USS Oyster Bay:

Bering Strait: viewtopic.php?f=52&t=35286&start=270
Oyster Bay: viewtopic.php?f=52&t=35286&start=285

[Rui Matos]

Thanks for the precious help, Carl!
Those plans will give the crew a good base work. And since I don't want just to criticize:
- Find fine aluminum tubing (not rod) with 1 or 1,5mm in diameter you can easily make the whistle horn with a tooth pick, by forcing the edge slowly to became more "bell shaped". Cut in appropriate length and glue it to a rod disk of plastic card.

Regarding the sea... I'll dig some of my old time photos and books, to see if I can find a photo of the "perfect hard to port" image (it's a shame I can't connect a printer to my head) LOL

Thank you
Rui

[Rui Matos]

Well, the wake...

I can't find the photo that I had in mind (I am not crazy) but found a similar wake type on a book:


(Image from the book Camera at Sea - the History of the Royal Navy Photographic branch 1919-1998, by Neil Mercer, published by Airlife )

Although not the same type of ship, the wake created by a DD/DE/FF/FFG (or any other ship) on a high turn would be similar.
The ship tilted, with the appropriate wake will make a very good dio.

Christian I hope that I was able to help you with your project, I am not trying to put any sand in the mechanism

Tschuss
Rui

[NukeMM]

Well, the wake...

I can't find the photo that I had in mind (I am not crazy) but found a similar wake type on a book:

Although not the same type of ship, the wake created by a DD/DE/FF/FFG (or any other ship) on a high turn would be similar.
The ship tilted, with the appropriate wake will make a very good dio.

Christian I hope that I was able to help you with your project, I am not trying to put any sand in the mechanism

Tschuss
Rui

I just got goose bumps, Rui. I just viewed this very picture last night while searching for location and examples of Invincible class ship's names to make some decals for a friend. Weird! Spooky!

[Rui Matos]

Sorry Carl
These things happen...


Found the image I was searching for - it came from a cheap book I bought last year on Barnes&Noble in NYC (US$5.00)
called Seapower by John Grisham & Ian Westwell, published by Chartwell Books Inc.

It has lots of modern US Navy photos, with tons of great photos
Again, I hope this helps
Tschuss
Rui

[Christian Bruer]

Hi,

@Carl, I have used 0.9mm rod for the whistle, next was 0.8 and that looks too small. In comparison with the photos of your fine models the whistle really looks like a bit too big, but I will leave it like it is on my model . But many thanks for all your support and the fine plans, a nice to have for another project.

@Rui, thanks for your research!

Christian I hope that I was able to help you with your project, I am not trying to put any sand in the mechanism

Tschuss
Rui

No problem Rui, that�s the real point of this forum, come together, share progress and help each other!
More progress soon!

[Christian Bruer]

mmhh, Rui, it seems to me you have found your brain/printer interface

Again, I hope this helps
Tschuss
Rui

Yes it did, thanks

[Christian Bruer]

Hi again,

there is only slow progress at the moment. I have reworked the display because I'm dissatisfied with the result. Ruis and Carls comments and support helped to make the display better - I hope so! I have shaped some more waves and reworked the ship waves according to the photo Rui has posted. The only thing left, the ships bow sits still to high out of the water. But that should be easy to rework the next days.

Back to the model I have finished the stacks and added the bulwarks. Now most of the sub assamblies are finished and there is only some detail work (doors, railing, small parts etc.) to do before I can start painting the model.

[Rui Matos]

Hallo Christian!

I can say that your effort on the sea base has paid-off! I really like what you have done now, and I also agree with you on the bow being to high, but has you say, this will be easily solved!
BZ!

On the model... as usual= Top Notch!

Keep up, you're almost in the painting/weathering phase of it

Tschuss,
Rui

[NukeMM]

Very, nice water effect Christian! What is it made of? Have I seen this technique before, elsewhere? It looks totally different, to me.

[Christian Bruer]

Hallo Christian!

I can say that your effort on the sea base has paid-off! I really like what you have done now, and I also agree with you on the bow being to high, but has you say, this will be easily solved!
BZ!

On the model... as usual= Top Notch!

Keep up, you're almost in the painting/weathering phase of it

Tschuss,
Rui

Rui, on account of your kind and helpful comments � thanks for that

Very, nice water effect Christian! What is it made of? Have I seen this technique before, elsewhere? It looks totally different, to me.

Carl, some of my close German Gamblers friends used and tried this technic and so I did for the first time. Guido Hopp uses Styrofoam on his U-217 display and also on his Andrea Gail:
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=45409

Frank Spahr advised to use Styrodur (used for thermal insulation on buildings), a more compressed sort of Styrofoam. Well I have used this Styrodur for the base. It is not easy to work on, but the surface is more finer and, in my opinion, better to shape. At first I cut out the base lines with a sharp knife. The waves were shaped with sandpaper in different grids from 40 - 240. It needs some time but it�s worth the effort.
I don�t know at that time to use acrylic gel or only a coat of gloss clear varnish to simulate the water. I will discuss this the coming weekend when I meet my German Gamblers friends.
By the way, have you got my email?