Calling all Essex-class (WWII configuration) fans

[Cliffy B]

Ahhh, makes sense. Thanks Timm. Might have to add those to some of my Essexes when I decide to build 'em. Awesome Shangri-La btw

[Hippy Ed]

Hi Cliffy,

The items you ask about are called 'butt straps', steel plates welded to tie the hull sides and main deck to the upper structure. While I don't know what thickness of steel they really are, in 1:350 scale they probably would be close to the thickness of a coat of paint. I made mine out of the thinnest sheet styrene I could find, I think it is .010". I know it's way over scale. I tried a little sanding too. I got the idea from Steve Larsen and after looking closely at pictures of the real ships I followed suite. Like i said, I know it's over scale, but I like the look.

Timm

Interesting... Now is this a late war item? When did they 1st start with the "Butt straps?" I have a couple Essex class CVs to build probably during the early 1944 era.

[Tracy White]

It was part of the original construction. In actuality the ones above the flight deck were not butt straps. A butt strap is used to join two pieces of hull plating. The taller vertical pieces you see on the "hull" between the main (I.E. Hangar) deck and the flight deck were part of the flight deck foundation girders (For those of you with the AOTS Intrepid book turn to the shell diagram on page 54; the butt straps are item 4 and the girders are item 3.. you should be able to see the difference. Also check out drawing B6 on page 56.

[drdoom1337]

I have the Trumpeter 1/350 Essex kit that I'd really like to build as Wasp since it seems nobody else models Wasp.

Even though it was roughly 250 nm from Halsey's flagship NJ during Typhoon Cobra, I'd like to build Wasp at the same time and put it next to my NJ/Spence Diorama. This would be 12/17/44 roughly.

I am attempting to order plans from Floating Drydock, but I'm a bit overwhelmed. There is one set of plans there for was from the "Navy" series, however I don't know if these will be what I need. Could anybody shed some light on this, or perhaps notify me of a similar ship to Wasp so I can buy those plans instead.

[Tracy White]

In your case the Essex kit is a good start as Wasp didn't receive many improvements until near the end of the war. Probably anything out of the Floating Drydock BU Series from '43-44 for Essex, Hornet, or Franklin will be applicable, but I can go through my notes and look at what you need to change.

As far as air group goes (assuming you're not stowing it inside to ride out the storm ), this is what Wasp was reported to have aboard on December 12:

VF-81 F6F-3 x 13 (tricolor)
VF-81 F6F-3N x 1 (tricolor)
VF-81 F6F-3P x 1 (tricolor)
VF-81 F6F-5 x 36 (Glossy Sea Blue)
VF-81 F6F-5N x 3 (Glossy Sea Blue)
VB-81 SB2C/SBW-3 x 21 (probably tricolor)
VT-81 TBM-1C x 18 (probably tricolor)

[drdoom1337]

In your case the Essex kit is a good start as Wasp didn't receive many improvements until near the end of the war. Probably anything out of the Floating Drydock BU Series from '43-44 for Essex, Hornet, or Franklin will be applicable, but I can go through my notes and look at what you need to change.

As far as air group goes (assuming you're not stowing it inside to ride out the storm ), this is what Wasp was reported to have aboard on December 12:

VF-81 F6F-3 x 13 (tricolor)
VF-81 F6F-3N x 1 (tricolor)
VF-81 F6F-3P x 1 (tricolor)
VF-81 F6F-5 x 36 (Glossy Sea Blue)
VF-81 F6F-5N x 3 (Glossy Sea Blue)
VB-81 SB2C/SBW-3 x 21 (probably tricolor)
VT-81 TBM-1C x 18 (probably tricolor)

Thanks Tracy! This build will probably not have any planes on deck. I think Wasp had a slightly different radar layout from the other early Essex, and that was the primary way of differentiating, though I could be wrong. I'd like to make sure before I go all out. As of right now I've just assembled the two hull halves and added PE watertight doors to the whole island (I can probably safely add PE ladders to the island as well before I really have to start being concerned about accuracy.)

[Adaks]

I have the Trumpeter 1/350 Essex kit that I'd really like to build as Wasp since it seems nobody else models Wasp.

I know one build of CV-18. This website can be helpful to you:

USS Wasp - 1 2 3

[drdoom1337]

That Wasp build is highly inspirational!

I've begun building my Essex/Wasp kit (put my Singapore diorama on stall since I need quite a bit of extras for Repulse). I've run into some problems that perhaps somebody could shed light on.

The fit of both hull halves was extremely poor. After countless amounts of sanding , and nearly an entire tube of squadron green putty, I'm ALMOST at a nice smooth surface with no seams. The flight deck is a different story. I'd like to know what is the best way to eliminate the three seams on the flight deck without destroying too much detail. I've considered buying the wooden deck conversion from Nautilus Models, however it seems like that deck would have seams as well. Has anybody figurered out a simple way to join the three parts seamlessly?

[Tracy White]

Whack off the locating tabs... see if this might be of help.

[AndrexP]

I'd like to know what is the best way to eliminate the three seams on the flight deck without destroying too much detail. I've considered buying the wooden deck conversion from Nautilus Models, however it seems like that deck would have seams as well. Has anybody figurered out a simple way to join the three parts seamlessly?

The series of photos at this link might help. I was able to make the seams disappear almost entirely without the use of filler and without harming the surface detail at all. Note that step 1 is removing the alignment tabs...

http://picasaweb.google.com/ARP1757/CV1 ... 5157542466

[drdoom1337]

I'm still a bit perplexed about ordering plans. I'm looking at the Floating Drydock site as I type and I notice that there are many different types of plans instead of one overall bundling. In essence, should I buy a set of:
Hull Lines
Flight deck
Gallery deck
Bridges and Platforms?

I want to make sure I get everything right the first time I order
(I hate forgetting things when I order!)

[Capt652]

dr doom,

As far as the two fight deck seams, like what Tracy stated, cut off the locating tabs. The tabs try to make the flight hump/buckle. Clamp the flight deck upside down onto a flat surface making sure the seams are tight together and glue the seams from the under side. After the glue is dry and and some point before paint, carefully tape on both sides of the glued joint with masking tape to protect the flight deck molded in details and fill with Squadron (or your favorite) putty. The gap/space between the masking tape was probably 1/16" or less. I then immediately pulled off the masking tape and then let the putty dry. I used a #11 blade to carefully scrape the excess off.

Hope that helps!

Timm

[Tracy White]

Hull Lines

Only if you're planning on scratchbuilding the hull.
Your mileage may vary on the rest.

[drdoom1337]

Aside from Wasp, I'd like to build a 1944 Lexington. Does anybody know which short hull kit would be most suitablef or this? I'm going to assume the discontinued Yorktown kit but I may be wrong?

Jon

[Tracy White]

1/350th scale?

[drdoom1337]

1/350th scale?

Yes, I know Dragon has a 1/700 Lexington but 1/700 just isn't my thing when it comes to carriers (the planes are too small to work with for me)

Also, I'm hoping somebody could come to my rescue. I left my glue tube open and apparently it all dripped onto part e26 of the Trumpeter Essex, completely melting it. If anybody has this piece as a spare (it's a quad 40 mount / platform right above the bridge).

[Tracy White]

Either the '44 Yorktown CV-10 or CV-13 kit will work, albeit the CV-13 kit is a slightly better start.

[domi13]

Hello Hill,

I suppose you saw this photo but just in case:
http://www.navsource.org/archives/02/021904.jpg

The shape of the platform and of the elevator is different from the Oriskany's ones.

Best regards,

domi13

[falcon04]

I'm going to do the Lex as configured on the day of the first strikes on Tokyo.

The 1:700 DML kit is set up for the Lex as configured after the last refit in 1945; i.e. with changes to the island, twin 20mm mounts, .50 caliber quad mounts, etc.

It appears the the DML Hornet CV-12 kit may have all the correct bits, in particular the "F" sprue with the island 20mm galleries not present in the Lex kit - to do the Lex as i want it.

Any guidance from the experts will be appreciated !

[ I'm doing 4 Lexingtons - 2 CV-2's and 2 CV-16's ]

( ON EDIT 12/1/09: the Hornet kit has a single cat, so that's out - looks like a scratch of the 20mm galleries for the island on the LEX kit will be the easiest approach )

Any info on the number and locations of the 20 mm galleries as of Feb. '45 ?

[Guest]

Hello, I was watching the Military Channel the other evening; I believe World at War: 'Pacific' and saw a picture of the Yorktown CV-10, I think quoted as the 'Turkey Shoot' campaign. This film showed Yorktown's forward numerals black on a relatively dark deck, but inverted. (to be viewed from the front). She appeared to be in 33-10a. The film was not reversed as is so often the case. I have never come across any literature in my readings that stated such. Is this just something I was unaware of or is this a sumwhat rare find? (proof). I know Yorktown's first camo period is a little vague so I thought I'd ask the experts. Thanks Keith Hufnagel