1/100 Arkmodel Udaloy

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Roel I note , this arrangement is not fitted to the Krivak 1s &2s . Could it be fitted to the Neustrashimyy a post Soviet warship ? Must do a little digging on this one?
Dave Wooley

[Neptune]

Haven't seen them on any Krivaks either, Udaloy however was built after the Krivak's so it might be a normal development. Not sure on Neustrashimy either. Have to dig out some archives for that.

Anyway I'm ready for painting the lower hull now. Everything sanded to shape and fixed in place. I also adjusted the Resin hatch for the Variable Depth Sonar, it was a little too wide. So now I can be placed. I'll also glue the stanchion for the rudder in place, then I can fit the aft deck. Electronics are all below the forward deck, so the aft deck will give some extra water tightness if I'm about to test it.

The biggest problem of the stabiliser bases seemed to have been thickness. So I just sanded off some of the styrene base and afterwards adapted the filler around it. Looks much better and up to scale now.

The picture of the portside bubble near the propellor is already a little older now. I've now reduced the size of the bubble and adjusted the shape to fit nicely in front of the A-frame instead of partially over it (as you can see on the picture).
I've also marked the waterline in the same way as Dave did it, stuck the pensil on top of a video tape box and then put the ship upright and drew the line. An easy help were these metal extensions on both sides. Strangely, they were on a different height on both sides. The difference was neglectible though. The waterline nicely came together on the bow and stern, so no problems there. Off to mask the upper hull now. Then I'll see what a 4mm porthole would look like!

[Timmy C]

Don't know about Neustrashimy, but the Steresguchiy lacks them:
download/file.php?id=15402&mode=view

[Neptune]

Another update. Not painted entirely yet as the paint was finished before I got half way...
Anyway not sure if this will be the final colour for the lower hull.
Before placing the aft deck I wanted to be sure that there wouldn't be any leaks, so I did a water test to see if there are any problems. And there ARE! Three small leaks. One very strange leak, where I attached the shaft in the hull. The other two are smaller leaks on one of the attachment points of the starboard bilge plate. Anyway I'll try to fix it with some silicone or glue. They aren't very big leaks, but when I pushed the hull down to its waterline, the two attachment points of the fin started leaking. The shaft was immediately leaking, without load.

Here is what the aft part looks like now. I think the bubbles are maybe a little too "high". But apart from that, I'm already glad they're there.

[Neptune]

And here is the water test stuff. Didn't fit in the bath tub, so I had to use the pond, after careful cleaning of the hull. The fish didn't really like this big thing coming in the water though.

[GTDEATH13]

A beautiful start of a beautiful ship....

[Atom44]

Hi Roel I note , this arrangement is not fitted to the Krivak 1s &2s . Could it be fitted to the Neustrashimyy a post Soviet warship ? Must do a little digging on this one?
Dave Wooley

Only warships of projekt 1155 "Udaloy" have this arrangement!!!!

Warship projekt 1155.1 "Admiral Chabanenko" has not this arrangement!!!

(I know 100% -- I have a lot of fotos in dry dok of all of this projekts, 1135, 1155, 1155.1, 1144, 1164).

[Atom44]

Attention!

There are 5-blades props, not 4-blades props.

For example you can use ....

[Dave Wooley]

Hi Roel Good start to ballast trials .
Dave Wooley

[Sean Hert]

Only warships of projekt 1155 "Udaloy" have this arrangement!!!!
Warship projekt 1155.1 "Admiral Chabanenko" has not this arrangement!!!
(I know 100% -- I have a lot of fotos in dry dok of all of this projekts, 1135, 1155, 1155.1, 1144, 1164).

Then you should share with your Modelwarships friends!

[Timmy C]

I already PM'd him that suggestion

[Atom44]

This pic shows some of it.
The unit in the picture is Vinogradov. Mine won't be Vinogradov, but she also has the straight, light sort of, red below the waterline without boot topping. I bet you feel annoyed that you didn't receive my email a few months back, because I actually revealed to you as the only person on earth which unit and time frame I was building in!

And now the same picture in big size

What max. size of picture i can upload????

[Timmy C]

When using this attachment upload tool, Pictures cannot be larger than 150kb in size (to bypass this limit, see method 2 (hosting on another site). The dimension limit is 1200 x 1200 pixels. However, odds are that you won't be uploading any picture that's 1200x1200 that is still under 150kb in size anyway.

[Neptune]

Ok, so after three watertightness tests the hull is finally found to be watertight. I've added the "glass" in the aft portholes and glued the aft deck in place. The tracks were glued on the aft part. Some 1mm styrene strips were provided in the kit, so I'm using those in upright position, for the tracks. I'll sand them off to half their thickness later. The aft ramps hve been placed too.
The filler on the side of the deck is Hobbylite. Something strange and extremely light. Unfortunately, I also think it's quite weak, although I'm not sure yet. I still have to sand it to shape, but excess parts are easily broken off. Dries quite quickly though and it's rather inexpensive. I'll see what the result will be. The only thing I'm affraid of is the vibration in the boat when it's on the water, I'm not sure if this filler will withstand it. I guess time will tell.

I know about those propellors, I've mentioned it before. I didn't know the correct ones were available though, I'll have a look if I can find them anywhere and if they fit on my shafts. The four bladers are more suited for a Krivak.

[GTDEATH13]

What material did you use for the deck? Is it provided with the hull?

What are the dimensions of the four bladed props? I might have a good use for them if you do not need them...

Filler parts do tend to snap of if they are not attached to a part... Humbrol filler also does that. It is too brittle like chalk... Vibrations are an issue, you can use silicon epoxy (like the one used for bathroom tiles) but I do not think that the filler you are using will suffer from it...

Nice work so far....

[klein loewietje]

Nice work, I'd like to see her in the flesh!
Still problems with your electronics? Or are they ironed out now?

Johan

[Neptune]

You're always welcome to come and see it!

Today I did some work on the rollers on the side of the hull. Also found out that I'm out of steel wire for the eyebrows (and hence a visit to the city and modelshop becomes more urgent again) and I also started with the base of the torpedo launchers (of which the resin parts were of wrong size and shape), did the base of the bollards and I finished the tracks on the portside of the aft deck. Pictures will follow.

[Neptune]

Here are some pics. Not much done today. The portside of the aft deck is not even with the hull, so I'm adding a small strip of styrene there to make the hull slightly higher and I'll later on fill it with extra filler and sand even with the hull. As you can see on the other picture also, the hull should be flat near the top edge, however, it seems to be slightly hollow, so I'm going to have a try in sanding it flat. If that doesn't work, I'll probably add filler again, so I can sand it flat. The other side is correct in this respect...

A nice picture of the excellently molded roller leads.

[Neptune]

And some more pics.

[ronmettler]

I would position the broken parts using a small clamp then apply Bondo to the crack except where the clamp is. Then I would remove the clamp add Bondo to the rest of the crack. I would then apply Poly Ester Resin over the broken area and out about an inch all around. Then apply glass mat over the crack and the wet resin. Use a small stiff brush to dab the mat with the resin and smooth it all out and press out the air with your fingers. Before it cures and while it is still a little tacky put a second coat of resin over the bad area. If you let it cure before putting a second coat on, be sure to sand the area first as the wax in the resin will have come to the surface. Use Bondo on the outside of the hull to feather the crack area and sand to a fine finish.