1/350 USS New (DDE-818)

[Rui Matos]

Glad I could help Christian

I don�t know at that time to use acrylic gel or only a coat of gloss clear varnish to simulate the water. I will discuss this the coming weekend when I meet my German Gamblers friends.

Advice advice... If you are using enamel based varnish, use a acrylic sealer first (some coats of paint I guess will do, and future coat) or you could get your great sea base... melted! Solvents will kill it!
Try first on a piece of scrap stryrodur
If you are using acrylics all the way (sea color + varnish) than ignore this!


Rui

[Christian Bruer]

Advice advice... If you are using enamel based varnish, use a acrylic sealer first (some coats of paint I guess will do, and future coat) or you could get your great sea base... melted! Solvents will kill it!
Try first on a piece of scrap stryrodur

Thanks Rui, I will consider your note

[Russ2146]

In your work on the wake, this is a different perspective on a turn to Port by DD722.
When you are standind on the stern and looking at the wake there is a concave area directly aft of the hull and then the white foam that appears to be higher than the deck. The faster the ship the ship is moving, the more extreme the effect.

I have ridden a DD and a DE and also noted that when revolutions are dropped severely, the wake bulge catches up to the ship and the stern actually heaves upward. Its the same effect as on a motor boat with a really big power plant.

[Christian Bruer]

Hi again,

@Russ2146 thank you very much for your comment and the really nice photo, more photos are appreciate

After a month with only less time for modelmaking because of a lot of 1:1 work, I will show you my latest, but only small progress on USS New.
With that most sub assemblies are nearly finished and the model is ready to paint.

Today I have put all sub assemblies together to take a closer look to the all the parts assembly and to take some photos. There is less work to do to fill some gaps and to sand some flashes. Next step is to start painting the model.

In the last steps I have added some stringers and ECM antennas to the tripod mast, stringers to the mt. 51 5� gun, rework the port bridge superstructure and at least add an extra vent next to the starboard 20mm gun tub.

I wish you and your families a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 2010

[GTDEATH13]

Awesome...

Merry Christmas to you too...

[Dave Hill]

Fantastic!!!...I'd say it's ready for the display case right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dave

[Cliffy B]

Nice!!!

Question, how did you make the radar dish for the quad 40mm? Did you just cut a thick circle and shape it with a dremel/sanding or is there an easier way?

[Christian Bruer]

Hi modeling friends,

thanks for your kind comments and you patience following the slow progress on USS New.

Question, how did you make the radar dish for the quad 40mm?

Cliff, for the dish I have used an FLG antenna from a 3� turret of my USS Ashville PG kit.
Another choice should be the Mk. 25 FLG antenna from WEMs 1/700 scale USN WW2 Radar Set (PE789).
In my opinion, the PE part is the better choice, but now I have finished it like it is and I will leave it!

I havn't thought at this time about making the dish by myself, but what is about vacuum forming? A small stamp, some 0.3mm styrene and a rest could be a good solution to make a dish?!

[Lucky]

Hi Christian

I really like this Uss New
Very good level of detail
Good work

Ciao
Luciano

[Sr. Gopher]

Outstanding job!

[GTDEATH13]

Any progress on this wonderful build?

[Christian Bruer]

Gentleman, thank you for your kind comments and for keeping this thread running

@GTDEATH13, unfortunately not yet. But I hope to start painting her as soon as possible. Be sure, I will let you now all news

[NukeMM]

Gentleman, thank you for your kind comments and for keeping this thread running

@GTDEATH13, unfortunately not yet. But I hope to start painting her as soon as possible. Be sure, I will let you now all news

I've been anxious to see this in paint, too! I'm curious about the painting method. I'd assume airbrushing the whole thing in the hull and bulkhead color, but how will you apply the deck color with all of the fragile and intricate details already attached?

I always hand brush the decks on my models after airbrushing the over all model with the bulkhead and hull color(s).

[Christian Bruer]

I've been anxious to see this in paint, too! I'm curious about the painting method. I'd assume airbrushing the whole thing in the hull and bulkhead color, but how will you apply the deck color with all of the fragile and intricate details already attached?

I always hand brush the decks on my models after airbrushing the over all model with the bulkhead and hull color(s).

Hi Carl,

don't worry, I have put the sub assemblys only in place (without glueing) to make a genaral photo. Superstructure, all weapons, masts, stacks and some small parts are removable until now. You're right about my method, it is the same like yours! I will paint all subassemblies with my Gabert airbrush (paints WEM colorcoats) and handpaint the decks, usually with Vallejo arcylic paint. Weathering etc. is another theme, but I don't want to take it in advance

[Russ2146]

Christian,

If its not too much trouble, could you post the dimensions of the brass you used to construct the tripod mast along with the attachment points of the cross members to the legs? I want to attempt to come close to your excellent work.

Thanks,

Russ

[Christian Bruer]

Christian,

If its not too much trouble, could you post the dimensions of the brass you used to construct the tripod mast along with the attachment points of the cross members to the legs? I want to attempt to come close to your excellent work.

Thanks,

Russ

Hi Russ,

thanks for your comment! The tripod was made of 1.8mm brass rod for the main mast and 1.2mm for the stringers. The horizontal stingers are made of 0.8mm brass rod. The styrene stringers are all made of 0.5mm styrene rod. For the topmast I used also 1.2mm brass rod and 0.5mm styrene and brass rod.
The mastplattform should be 35mm measured from bridge deck level. The first cross member is at approx. 12mm and the second 27mm up from bridge deck level. The topmast is approx. 12 � 13mm long (without the radar base and radar).
The measures are all taken (more or less approximately) from the excellent drawings shown in �Tin Can Sailors� booklet of USS Joseph P. Kennedy, Jr. (DD-850).

Russ, take care of the first horizontal stringer. The stringer sit very close to the forward stack. I tried it several times before I found the right position. Because of the position of the stringer you always had to note the siren etc. on the forward stack.

By the way, today I have painted New�s boot top, only a small progress but better than none

I hope that helps

[Russ2146]

Christian,

Thanks, that helps quite a bit. I was right on with my calculations of the mast and "vertical" stringer diameters but I was going to use the same stringer rod for the horizontals.

Could you give me the length of the stringer legs and the botton cross member? That way I believe the cross member would clear the whistle platform, triangles being what they are. I'm working off of Floating Drydock plans of the Kennedy and the overlapping of lines at the antenna platform make accurate measurement difficult.

What I'm doing is a non-FRAMed Sumner with centerline 3" 50s.

Thanks again,
Russ

[Christian Bruer]

Could you give me the length of the stringer legs and the botton cross member?

Hi Russ,

I've added some photos with dimensions and some extra information. I left the photos as large as possible for the details, but reduced the filesize.
Most of the parts, including the mast are only dry fit! So painting will be done seperately.

I hope that helps again.

By the way, which one do you build? When you build one with 3" guns, does your version carry 3" twins and single guns? I ask, because I'm interested in the single ones.

Christian,

What you label as an air pipe is actually the lead in tube from the long wire radio antennas to the radio shack which is under the starboard twin 40mm mount.
The rounded end of it is actually a ceramic insulator with a metal bolt in the very center to attach the antenna wire. The ceramic had a reddish brown glaze on it. The antenna wire ran up to the yard arm level of the mast and split there with several wires running to the aft stack.
Figure 3-32 on the following page gives the deneral idea.
http://www.virhistory.com/navy/antenna.htm

Russ

Russ, thank you for this interesting information I edit the photo with your information.

[Sr. Gopher]

WWWWWWWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWWW!!! Awesome job! Can't wait for the final product.

[Russ2146]

Christian,

I'm doing the USS Barton, DD 722 as she was in the mid-1960s.

She and a few others had what was supposed to have been FRAM III, according to Sumrall's book, but which was not funded as such by our legislature. As a result, many modifications which would have been included included in a FRAM III were actually installed during short "availability" periods by tenders and shipyards.
From bow to stern, the mid-60s fit was Mounts 51 and 52, Mk 10/11 hedgehog launchers Port and Stbd, removal of the single 3" 50s aft of the bridge (This is where the twin 40's had been), removal of the center mounted 5 tube torpedo mount between the stacks which were replaced by MK 32 triple tube mounts port and starboard (The launch charge was sufficient to clear the main deck), 5" practice loader aft of the aft stack, deck house mounting a Mk 56 director, twin 3" 50 mount on the center line in partial tub and another twin 3" 50 in a tear drop tub also on the centerline. Mount 53 also remained but K mount launchers were removed along with the portside DC rack.