Oil washes

[Rob J]

Ive only just started reading FSM magazine and I have noticed that almost all builders whether it be tanks, ships or wingy things give models a wash using artist�s oils. Ive never even thought of it before but I have noticed how much of a difference it can make to add depth to any model. I don�t really know anything about what to use, how to use it and when to use it. So any direction or links would be appreciated.

[Anonymous]

Use artist oils, black, burned umber, sienna, etc. thin down with say terpentine for a very thin wash and smear happily (very thin, otherwise the first brush stroke will leave an imprint on your model). For thick washed (oil smears) you may want to use turpentine. Use a flat and soft brush.

[Rob]

Rob,

I wrote a few notes about this for my Russian cruiser Avrora a few days back. Have a look under "what's new" and see if that gives you any ideas.

Oils washes are easy to control, dry quickly and can be removed with white spirit if you don't like the effect.

Cheers,

Rob

[JIM BAUMANN]

or...

if you tend toward cowardice over the thought of adverse paint reactions.... like me-- been at receiving end of paint reaction.. ouch!


try what I do...

Use BEST quality artisist water colours(from tube-Winsor & Newton etc) in water suspension with a small drop of washing up liquid--easily controlled depth.-no reaction--wash off with white cotton bud if you are un-happy with effect or it is overdone.

brush size to taste..

Benefits from being sealed with flat coat as is not resistant to handling/abrasion

Can be built up very subtly in layers for great depth effect

....just my � 0.02 worth....

JIM BAUMANN :

[Anonymous]

Why didn't I think of that? Actually sounds like an excellent idea.

I'm also contemplating painting my model partial (fully) with artist oils, at least the wooden parts, working wet-in-wet...

[Devin]

I've been using oils for washes and dry brushing on my ships for some time now. I get much better control with them than with any sort of acrylic paints (and believe me, I've tried them ALL).

Go to an art supply store and ask the person behind the counter which paints have the finest grain. Those are the ones to get - can't remember now which ones I use, unfortunately.

Before applying the wash, gloss coat the model. I use straight Future for this. Cut the oils with turpentine or other thinner, play with the mix until you get what looks good, too thin is better than too thick. I do NOT recommend putting down a wash with a wide brush, stroking over everything. I use a very fine brush, and just touch it into the paint mix and then to the edge of a detail; hatch, porthole, etc. With the gloss coat the capillary action will pull the wash around details amazingly well.

Let that dry for a few days, up to a week, and then flat coat the model. Then you can do your drybrushing with the oils.

I think I might have gone over this in my USS Juneau and Laffey diorama build that is on this site.

-Devin

[mike mccabe]

I do the same as Devin, I don't use a wash but just pick out the details I want to highlight. Oils work well for me as they seem to flow better around small detail and are easy to remove if overdone.

Mike

[Ron Smith]

...

[Devin]

Use Turpenoid as thinner, turpentine tends to eat other paints.

That's the stuff. All I could remember was that it started with a 't'.

I'll have to pick up some Payne's gray; I've just been mixing my gray from the black and white base colors.

-Devin

[les]

Use ordorless paint thinner (tupenoid or tupenol, I can't remember which it is) for your wash. It's not as hot as regular thinner and won't hurt the paint.

[Filipe Ramires]

Personally I use water colours for that kind of work...because if something wents wrong you can always take it out easily. With artist oils you only get one chance or you will ruin the all painting when taking out the oil. Still, artist oil is very useful for water dioramas and for terrains like fjords, beaches and harbours.

[Devin]

With artist oils you only get one chance or you will ruin the all painting when taking out the oil.

Not if you do it the way I described and put down the acrylic gloss coat first. I've often times gone back over an area with a cotton swab soaked in thinner to "erase" a mistake or reduce an area where I put it on too heavily. No damage at all, and it comes away totally clean.

-Devin

[Filipe Ramires]

Not if you do it the way I described and put down the acrylic gloss coat first. I've often times gone back over an area with a cotton swab soaked in thinner to "erase" a mistake or reduce an area where I put it on too heavily. No damage at all, and it comes away totally clean.

-Devin

I see...good point. The thing is that I am always scared to use gloss coats...even being acrylic. Still, since I mix the artist oil with thinner I believe that it can attack the coat. I haven't try this and I am not particulary fancy of trying it yet (had bad movements years ago with a wingie thing). And yes, the cotton swab...I also use that technique...it works quite well indeed...specially with water paints!!!

[mike mccabe]

Felipe
Can you get Johnson's Kleer or Future (both the same thing different brand names) at home? I use this to provide a barrier between paint layers and have had no problem with it as long as you don't use too much at once. Oil works fine over this and I seal it with an aerosol matt spray, had no problems so far.

Mike

[CMdelRio]

Howdy folks from Japan! Over here they don't have "turpanoid" or turpentine." I can't get it sent over via mail order, so I've opted for just regular Japanese brand oil brush cleaner. That's what I use for the inital mix, and to clean up with. Works well, I just wish I knew what the warning labels say cause it's all in kanji!

[Filipe Ramires]

Felipe
Can you get Johnson's Kleer or Future (both the same thing different brand names) at home? I use this to provide a barrier between paint layers and have had no problem with it as long as you don't use too much at once. Oil works fine over this and I seal it with an aerosol matt spray, had no problems so far.

Mike

Hello Mike

Kleer or Future is some sort of Holy Graal here in Portugal but I have some good contacts here that can manage to get some of those bottles to me. I still remember when I was studying in the UK that many of the lads here asked me to bring from the UK that product...I should have got the license to produce them here!!!