Drawing Blakely Rifle Instructions (COMPLETED)

[Rusty White]

Starting on the 7" Blakely Rifle instructions. As per usual, all my drawings are done on a CAD program called DesignCad 3D Max version 21. Step one is the main gun carriage, spotting the various ring bolts and eye pins.

I have developed a method that works very well using DC v-21. I make the first set of drawings in 2D, then transfer them to 3D to do all the 3D stuff. I then save the 3D drawing with hidden line removal as a 2D drawing. The final clean up work is done, and line widths and layers are assigned. It may not be the best way to create 3D instructions, but it works perfectly with DesignCad.

The only real decision that had to be made for the carriage was how to create the round elements on the carriage sides. In DesignCad 3d Max, there are several ways to go about this. The easiest way I deduced, was to make 2D drawings for the bottom of each level with a quarter circle, then extrude each layer from the bottom up to the proper thickness and stack them appropriately creating the side. Finally, planes were created for both sides to cover the wire frames. The final step was to create a mirror image for the other side of the carriage.

Comments and suggestions are always welcome.

[Cadman]

That looks nice. Are the the mounting hole locations marked on the casting? If not then dimensions for the holes would be nice.

[Rusty White]

There are locating marks for the eyepins and ring bolts on the casting.

[carr]

Rusty,

As an instruction drawing, it looks fine. As a detail drawing, there appears to be one or more missing lines associated with the horizontal base beam at the bottom front. The merging of the carridge sides and the horizontal base have cutouts and notches that should be producing one or more additional lines, including, I think, a major horizontal line for the base beam on its uppermost front edge. Am I misinterpreting something, maybe?

I hope this made sense. I'm not trying to be nitpicky about an otherwise nicely done drawing and I wouldn't have said anything had you not asked for comments. Forgive me!

I too use DesignCAD, both 2D and 3D, at work. Like any CAD program, it's a lot of effort but it can produce nice drawings as evidenced by what you've shown us. Well done!

[Rusty White]

Rusty,

As an instruction drawing, it looks fine. As a detail drawing, there appears to be one or more missing lines associated with the horizontal base beam at the bottom front. The merging of the carridge sides and the horizontal base have cutouts and notches that should be producing one or more additional lines, including, I think, a major horizontal line for the base beam on its uppermost front edge. Am I misinterpreting something, maybe?

I hope this made sense. I'm not trying to be nitpicky about an otherwise nicely done drawing and I wouldn't have said anything had you not asked for comments. Forgive me!

I too use DesignCAD, both 2D and 3D, at work. Like any CAD program, it's a lot of effort but it can produce nice drawings as evidenced by what you've shown us. Well done!

Thanks for the heads up. Corrections made.

[carr]

Rusty,

Did you mean to post a reply or comment? You appear to have copied my note but didn't add anything?

Thanks,
Bob

[Rusty White]

Step 2 illustrates the assembly and placement of the front and rear Blakely rollers. The carriage was rotated and the various parts were drawn using the extrude command.

[Rusty White]

Step 3 & 4. Attaching pivot pin mount, ring bolts, and eye pins to the lower carriage.

[Guest]

In Step 1, "Carriage" is spelled incorrectly. I before E and all that.

Yours,
James D. Gray

[Rusty White]

In Step 1, "Carriage" is spelled incorrectly. I before E and all that.

Yours,
James D. Gray

Thanks much. Corrections made.

[DrPR]

Rusty,

Nice drawings. Very nice instructions.

I, too, have found DesignCAD to be an excellent illustration program. In addition, you can send your 3D models to NC machine shops and 3D stereolith printers. The best of both worlds.

An alternative for the curved sections on the carriage sides would be to create a 3D "tool" with the proper concave curve and subtract if from the side piece. The one tool could be used for all three subtractions. I don't know that this would save any work in the long run. I always build up complex shapes like this just the way you did.

Phil

[Rusty White]

Rusty,

Nice drawings. Very nice instructions.

I, too, have found DesignCAD to be an excellent illustration program. In addition, you can send your 3D models to NC machine shops and 3D stereolith printers. The best of both worlds.

An alternative for the curved sections on the carriage sides would be to create a 3D "tool" with the proper concave curve and subtract if from the side piece. The one tool could be used for all three subtractions. I don't know that this would save any work in the long run. I always build up complex shapes like this just the way you did.

Phil

Six one way, half dozen the other. Doing a simple extrusion was fastest for me. As you well know, this stuff takes a fair amount of hours to do, so time was the deciding factor for me.

Have you actually sent 3D DC drawings for stereo Lithography or NC machining?

[Fritz]

Rusty

I'm not too familiar with Design Cad. However if you check your file export menu, and you have the ability to export a *.stl file, then you have the technology to do so. The .stl file is a polygonal shell format that is standard for most forms of CNC and SLA. There are several 3d print companies that have websites, do small order projects, and have online quoting using the .stl file. Maybe a more expensive, but definitely less time consuming, method for master patterns. Especially where you are making 3D files for the instructions anyhow. It may be worth it to use that work to cut down on the master pattern making as well.

[Rusty White]

Rusty

I'm not too familiar with Design Cad. However if you check your file export menu, and you have the ability to export a *.stl file, then you have the technology to do so. The .stl file is a polygonal shell format that is standard for most forms of CNC and SLA. There are several 3d print companies that have websites, do small order projects, and have online quoting using the .stl file. Maybe a more expensive, but definitely less time consuming, method for master patterns. Especially where you are making 3D files for the instructions anyhow. It may be worth it to use that work to cut down on the master pattern making as well.

I checked the export file menu and .stl is not there, so my questions stands for Phil. He's an expert on DC, so if there is a way, he would know. I can import/export AutoCad files.

[DrPR]

Rusty,

As of now DesignCAD doesn't export STLs. However, it can be done. I have an inexpensive ($20) program called AccuTrans that is only slightly short of amazing. It will import a R12 DXF file and perform magic to turn it into many different file formats, including STL. The resulting STLs are beautiful! AccuTrans will allow you to select single layers or combinations of layers to export in a STL file. It also translates the other file types into DXF for import into DesignCAD.

I don't know why it only accepts the fairly old R12 DXF format, and not something newer, or DWGs, but it does an excellent job of translating the DXF file. I have prepared STLs for another company and they have used them to make parts for preparing molds.

This is not a pain free process. You must be very careful to have no "leaks" in solids (gaps between surfaces). Many 3D printer drivers will reject a file if surfaces are not joined perfectly. With DesignCAD if you build up solids surface by surface* you must ensure adjoining grids have exactly the same number of facets per side, and common grid points. This takes a bit of practice.

If you create complex solids by subtracting "tool" solids from a "work" piece you will always have a leak-free part.

* For those not familiar with DesignCAD it was originally created by a mechanical engineer who played rather loose with the rules. You can construct solids surface by surface, and then combine the bunch into a single solid. Sometimes this is a lot easier than trying to slice away bits and pieces from an existing solid. You can explode solids, fiddle with the pieces, and then put them back together again. You can mix 1D, 2D and 3D objects to create just about anything you can imagine, including all sorts of impossible objects like solids with missing sides, etc. (Escher and Dali would have loved it!). These things will play havoc with NC machines and stereolith printers.

Here is an AccuTrans image of a motor whaleboat hull STL generated from a DesignCAD DXF file.

I should add this this one was a major pain. It was my first attempt at generating a STL, and it leaked like a sieve. Fortunately there are STL cleanup programs that will patch all the leaks.

This is a Mk37 director STL image.

Phil

[Rusty White]

Rusty,

As of now DesignCAD doesn't export STLs. However, it can be done. I have an inexpensive ($20) program called AccuTrans that is only slightly short of amazing. It will import a R12 DXF file and perform magic to turn it into many different file formats, including STL. The resulting STLs are beautiful! AccuTrans will allow you to select single layers or combinations of layers to export in a STL file. It also translates the other file types into DXF for import into DesignCAD.

I don't know why it only accepts the fairly old R12 DXF format, and not something newer, or DWGs, but it does an excellent job of translating the DXF file. I have prepared STLs for another company and they have used them to make parts for preparing molds.

This is not a pain free process. You must be very careful to have no "leaks" in solids (gaps between surfaces). Many 3D printer drivers will reject a file if surfaces are not joined perfectly. With DesignCAD if you build up solids surface by surface* you must ensure adjoining grids have exactly the same number of facets per side, and common grid points. This takes a bit of practice.

If you create complex solids by subtracting "tool" solids from a "work" piece you will always have a leak-free part.

* For those not familiar with DesignCAD it was originally created by a mechanical engineer who played rather loose with the rules. You can construct solids surface by surface, and then combine the bunch into a single solid. Sometimes this is a lot easier than trying to slice away bits and pieces from an existing solid. You can explode solids, fiddle with the pieces, and then put them back together again. You can mix 1D, 2D and 3D objects to create just about anything you can imagine, including all sorts of impossible objects like solids with missing sides, etc. (Escher and Dali would have loved it!). These things will play havoc with NC machines and stereolith printers.


Phil

Phil,

I checked out the Micromouse web site and I have a couple of questions. It seems by reading the text that when one purchases a "license", it is only for one year. If I purchase/download the program for an individual, is it permanent? Also, you mention programs that that correct any "leaks" in the 3D drawings. Do you have any names and prices for those programs?

You can't beat $20.00 for a program that does all that. If you prefer, contact me off board.

[DrPR]

Rusty,

The license I have for AccuTrans is perpetual. I have been using it for several years. I haven't upgraded in a while so I don't know about costs there.

The leak patch programs are another thing. All I have seen are associated with the 3D printer software, and they are very expensive. I don't recall any names now. I found them a few years ago on sites that discuss STL and 3D printing.

Maybe there are cheaper programs now.

Phil

[Rusty White]

Rusty,

The license I have for AccuTrans is perpetual. I have been using it for several years. I haven't upgraded in a while so I don't know about costs there.

The leak patch programs are another thing. All I have seen are associated with the 3D printer software, and they are very expensive. I don't recall any names now. I found them a few years ago on sites that discuss STL and 3D printing.

Maybe there are cheaper programs now.

Phil

According to the web site, the upgrades are free.

I know a guy with a stereo lithography printer. However, I need to get better using DC3Dv-20 in 3D mode before I attempt a full blown kit. I'll make some small stuff first to get the process down and I may ask for some advice.

[tea monster]

There is always the free 'Meshlab' which might be worth a look. Shapeways has a page on using it to convert and prep meshes.

http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/how_ ... nd_netfabb

Owen

[Rusty White]