BUILDING RAILS

[subprime]

Forgetting the expensive and highly pollutant pe accesories...

What techniques do you know to build rails?

I am specially interested in small scale rails (from 1/200 to 1/700).

Paper, copper wire, etc...
I made some trials but with only acceptable results.

[Timmy C]

One ~15 year old's way of making them (last post on the page): viewtopic.php?f=59&t=75050

[Shipbuilder]

I use this simple wood frame. The threaded rod is glued round the edge with epoxy resin. Only a few windings are shown here, but I usually make a lot more than I need. Once the rails are wound on the frame, I paint it with Baker's Soldering Fluid (Consistency of water). And run a soldering iron quickly across the crossovers. It makes a pretty good job at small scales. I spray paint the finished rails with white matt primer aerosol from Halfords (UK). Doesn't take long, about ten minutes to make a frame full!
Note that they don't all come out perfect. Discard the faulty ones!
Bob

Rail Frame

[subprime]

To "shipbuilder":
What material do you use for rails?
Copper wire?

Thks & rgds

[Mike Reading]

Yes use a frame just like that shown in the photo in Bob's reply but instead of wire and solder, because my present project is 1:600 scale I'm using invisible sewing thread. Where the verticals and horizontals cross over try using either clear matt varnish or some other clear, "watery" glue that will hold the rails together. It does not need to be a strong bond because the painting of the rails afterwards holds them together. The main trick is not using gluie, varnish or paint that "blobs". At small scale any blobs show up like the proverbial sore thumb. And yes not all the sets of rails you make will go well. Some you'll scrap or only use a part of them. Hope that helps.

By the by at larger scales (1:200 and above) I make the rails in situ. I've a block of wood with holes drilled in to the correct depths. Simply push a length of wire into the required hole and snip off with wire cutters held against the block. Hey presto you quickly have a few dozen up-rights. Carefully drill holes along the deck sides where the railings are to go. The hole size to be that the up-right is a tight fit. Push an up-right into each hole. Use a guage so that all are the same height. Now the rails can be easily put in place using a suitable thread. In general they only need tying to a few of the uprights. Draw them fairly taught and hold in place with a weight (bulldog clip works perfectly - dangling over the side). A touch of clear glue or varnish at each intersection. Leave to dry, and you've got your railings.
Mike

[Shipbuilder]

The rails shown are 1:384 scale using tinned copper wire 38 swg size. (As shown in top photograph) I have never had any success gluing the joints and find soldering is quicker & easier, but most modellers I come across prefer gluing. The secret is is the flux used. Baker's is the only one that works with this method because it has the consistency of water and can be painted on with a brush. It doesn't even matter if the soldering iron has a lot of solder on it because the joint just takes what it requires and that is a very small amount. I get Baker's from plumbers supplies. Wire thicker than 38swg does not work well either.
Bob

[subprime]

I get Baker's from plumbers supplies.

Bob:
May you be so kind to tell us chemical name or composition of "Baker" product?
Tks&Rgds
Sergio

[Shipbuilder]

On the bottle it just says "contains zinc chloride!" I suppose any liquid flux would work as long as it had the consistency of water so it could be painted on!
Bob

[Busto963]

That is an awesome tip - thanks!

[commodore4]

I make a lot of rail in 1/96 . For the smaller scales ( 1/700 ,1/542 etc I use a jig much like that shown and very fine wire .I also use a little heavier wire for stanchions .What I use is a product whos name escapes me right now .I use it for overcoating my hummingbird carvings .This stuff works and NO BLOBS .It wouldn,t be nice to blob all those hand done feathers with stuff .This material is something I have also used on my antique guns years ago . It,s water thin , about the color of , EXCUSE ME -urine and dries very quickly .It is made for carvings and gunwork .Check a sporting goods store that advertises gun refurbishing supplies .The same stuff , different name is also used on fly rods and in fly tying . Don,t give up til you find what works for you .I use the flyrod stuff on my sailing ships I build as gifts . The speedboats too ! commodore4

[DrPR]

Commodore4,

Was it True Oil (A very highly purified linseed oil) that you used? It is used for finishing wood carvings, gun stocks, etc. It dries quickly and leaves a thin yellowish film.

For liquid solder flux we use a water based citric acid flux. It is phenomenal how it flows into the tiniest of PC board vias and under the pins of surface mount parts. It draws solder into tiny places where it will not flow otherwise. After soldering it washes off in running water leaving a clean surface. One other good point is that it smells like oranges.

Unfortunately, I can't remember the name right now. I think you can get it from McMaster-Carr, but it may not be available in small quantities (we buy it in 5 gallon drums).

Phil