Cost-cutting Modelling Aids

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RNfanDan
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Cost-cutting Modelling Aids

Post by RNfanDan »

This may be old news, but here are a couple basic modelling-aid ideas, based on those I've made from everyday household items. There is a long story behind my idea to post this topic, but suffice it to say I am just getting back into scale warship modelling after a long absence, and found myself having to start over with almost nothing left from my original stocks.

CLOTHESPIN SANDING BLOCKS: Indispensable for tight areas, precision angle sanding, etc. A tube of white glue, some WOODEN clothespins (the spring clip type, not "wedgies") and small strips of abrasive sheet, are all that are needed to make a number of blocks. These clothespins are available cheaply in large bagfuls at my local dollar store. When a block wears out, I just throw it awayand grab another.

Simply glue a strip to the flat surface of the clothespin, let it dry, then trim away the excess strip. You could use double-sided 3-M or other brand tape instead of white glue, then just peel-away the old strip after it becomes worn. This method works well with plastic clothespins, for wet-sanding work. I keep both kinds handy, in abrasions ranging from #220 to #600.

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PARTS TRAP: Most of us modellers have made sacrifices to the carpet gods! Here's a tool I've used for years in my electronics work, now applied to my modelling hobby--it's great for recovering those tiny masts, yardarms, guns, fittings, etc. that we invariably drop on the rug.

Using rubber bands and a square cut from ordinary ladies' nylon hosiery/stockings, simply lap the material over the business end of a vacuum-cleaner hose or wand, secure it in place with a rubber band or two, and PRESTO!--you now have a handy small parts recovery aid!

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OTHER MONEY SAVERS: When something I need just can't be found or is too expensive at a hobby supplier, I often refer to other sources for help. In particular hand tools, such as tweezers, clips, vises, cutting tools, etc., can often be obtained from discount electronics-supply firms. For example, a razor knife kit, retailing for $27.99 at a local hobby shop, was also available from a mail-order electronic tools distributor, for less than $20, including postage; this same supplier had a file and pick set--- basically jeweler tools, but labelled for another use---for under half the cost of a similar file set at the hobby shop. I won't mention names/brands here, but my point is, try to think outside the box!

Fabric and sewing supply stores can be useful resources. They often stock useful items that can apply to warship modelling, especially for scratch-building or conversion work. These include rotary fabric cutters (available in large and small-blade versions), T-pins (too many uses to count), working surface mats, lighted magnifiers, etc. They also stock hundreds of small plastic beads and decorative products that just happen to make good deck fittings, depth charges, searchlights--even turrets, directors and catapult mounts--with a minor bit of filing and sanding.

Some may also stock translucent pattern sheets, which make a SUPERB means of tracing warship plans directly from books and photographs, without damaging precious or borrowed (or BOTH) publications. A pattern sheet can then serve as a template to lay over blank wood, styrene or resin, or other surfaces. It's a breeze to then drill, cut, mark locator points on decks, etc. In certain cases, it may even eliminate the need to buy expensive plan drawings.

I hope you will find this post useful! What ideas might you bring to this forum?

:thumbs_up_1:
:no_2: Danny DON'T "waterline"...!
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Vlad
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Post by Vlad »

hey, some interesting ideas there. i like the parts recovery thing, I might actually try that next time I drop a section of PE ladder or something.

oh, i have a good one. Eat Lindt chocolate. :big_grin: theres one variety that comes with a really thin, yet really stiff card backing. it tastes nice, and when you're done chuck the card in your spares box, I have enough material to scratch build and entire fleet. :lol_1: :lol_1: :lol_1:
Vlad
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Kelly Quirk
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Post by Kelly Quirk »

Those are some great tips, guys! I appreciate the input.
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MichelB
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Post by MichelB »

Paperclips come in all sizes and thickness, and they can be used as a cheap alternative to brass rod when working in 1:700. (and they are stiffer). The curves can be employed as makeshift boat davits. Office equipment is a great source for these things. Some other chap mentioned using Blue-tack as a erzats putty for blast bags, and even staples are useful for that small strip of metal you just don't happen to have around.
If all else fails, a complete pig-headed refusal to see facts in the face will see us through. - General Melchett
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Vlad
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Post by Vlad »

MichelB wrote:Some other chap mentioned using Blue-tack as a erzats putty for blast bags
yep, I do that, works great. :big_grin: also try getting some different sized beads, schartchbuilt radomes anyone?
Vlad
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Francisco P. de Nanclares
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Post by Francisco P. de Nanclares »

A very interesting thread. Thanks RNfanDan an the others! :woo_hoo:
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Mike C
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Post by Mike C »

Gun shows are a good source for tool bargains. Most of the ones that I've been to have vendors that sell all sorts of esoteric stuff. I use hemostats (scissor tweezers with locking mechanism) for grabbing small bits of sandpaper to get into tight areas. I've also found small dental tools and drill burrs to use for shaping, scraping and scribing. Jewelry vendors have small chain for bracelet clasps. Spools of trip wire will yield thousands of small masts and yardarms. Brass blackener, a liquid sold for touching up uniform buckles and buttons, also works on copper anchor chain and photo etched brass.

I almost never throw away any electronic device without opening it for goodies. Speakers and motors often have windings of very small diameter copper wire for rigging. Allen head set screws are great for making bolt heads (heat plastic sprue until it melts or catches fire, usually both, blow it out and press into the hole).

I drill small holes in the bottoms of small parts for inserting toothpick holders for painting. Use a chunk of florist foam to hold the toothpicks.
Rob J
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Post by Rob J »

I have heard that you can use water to thin acylic paints, is that true?
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Timmy C
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Post by Timmy C »

Some acrylic paints. Some are alcohol-based, some are waterbased.
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Rob J
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Post by Rob J »

So if Tamiya is water based can you thin it with water?
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Timmy C
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Post by Timmy C »

If it is, yes. Although I'm not sure. The only acrylics I use often are Gunze's Aqueous(<===='in water') line.
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Rob J
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Post by Rob J »

Tamiya's website says there paints are water bassed so I can only asume that they can mix with water, but there is only one way to find out.
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les
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Post by les »

Tamiya makes thinner for their paint. If you're going to thin it to use in an air brush, I would use it to thin the paint. The paint will clean up with water and also alcohol. :big_grin:
Any ship larger than a Destroyer is a waste of metal.
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kennylibben
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Post by kennylibben »

hope it doesn't ALL clean up with water... im using it on my R/C ships! :lol_3:
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les
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Post by les »

After it's set, it should be fine. You have to strip or sand it off then. :big_grin:
Any ship larger than a Destroyer is a waste of metal.
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kennylibben
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Post by kennylibben »

eh?
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les
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Post by les »

Going Canadian on me Kenny?
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kennylibben
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Post by kennylibben »

eh!
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Francisco P. de Nanclares
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Post by Francisco P. de Nanclares »

Rob J wrote:Tamiya's website says there paints are water bassed so I can only asume that they can mix with water, but there is only one way to find out.
My experience is Tamiya paints and water don�t go along all that well. Better use the thinner.
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richter111
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Post by richter111 »

Another paint that responds well to it's thinner is the Model Master acryle, the model master thinner is a giant jump forward in quality, especiallywhen airbrushing.

Ric
Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
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