from Robert Wilson-- How to make a wooden display case

[JIM BAUMANN]

Herewith the Bow Wilson method of making a Display case

Bob is a renowned builder of high quality miniature merchant ships; both sail and steam

his fine work can be seen here:

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=38508

meanwhile...

over To Bob!

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BUILDING A DISPLAY CASE


by Robert A. Wilson

This is a step-by-step description of how I build display cases. My models are all miniatures, so I prefer to use 3mm acrylic sheet that is supplied with a protective coating on both sides. If you wish to build a larger display case, the methods are the same, but it is better to use a thicker acrylic for strength.

When explaining how to build display case, or models, I am often asked questions along the lines �Why don�t you do it this way?�
or
�Why don�t you use�. Instead of�..?�


The simple answer is that this is the way I do it.

Should you wish to try variations on my methods, that is fine, but I find my own methods are tried and tested over the years.


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I begin with the quadrant beading around the base. This is 18mm quadrant. The first task is to cut the mitre in the corners. To ensure that the opposite sides are the same length, I tape the pieces together with masking tape. First, decide the approximate length of the sides.

For the cutting of the mitres I use a �chop saw". This device was relatively cheap and I also consider it to be potentially very dangerous and always use the greatest of care when using it.

The four pieces may then be placed together to check the size is OK.

Make allowance for the wooden edging to the sea that will lie inside the base quadrant.

I like to veneer the case in steamed beech veneer, and this is the next task.
In order to fit the veneer round the quadrant, it is necessary to make a simple jig that is formed from two concave wooden strips mounted back-to-back on a chipboard strip.

A strip of veneer of sufficient width to cover the quadrant is cut and dampened. It will quickly take on a natural curl and there is no need for prolonged wetting or steaming. The damp veneer is then pressed into the jig and painted with white Evo-Stik wood adhesive.

(Veneering Jig)

The piece of quadrant is also painted with wood adhesive and clamped tightly onto the veneer. This type of glue can be thinned down with water, so the fact that the veneer is wet does not affect it adhesive qualities. After about half an hour, I remove the clamps and prise the veneered quadrant carefully from the jig.

Usually, the whole piece of the veneered quadrant is stuck in the jib by this time, but by inserting a thin screwdriver under one end, it may be levered out without damaging it. If it were left for much longer than an hour, the small amount of glue which had seeped through the veneer would have formed a much stronger bond with the jig and removing it without damage would probably become impossible!

Leave it to dry completely and then trim the sides with a scalpel and cut the ends down with micro shears. These are used in electronics
( and may be obtained in the UK from Maplin Electronics (Corporation Street, Preston who also have mail order).

Finally, rub down the ends with a sanding block made from a piece of coarse wet & dry paper glued to a block of chipboard.

[JIM BAUMANN]

Using corner clamps, glue two sets of opposing long and short sides together

Glue two sets of opposing sides together using corner clamps and Evo-Stik white glue. After the two halves are thoroughly dry, glue them together, thus forming the complete base quadrant.

The base quadrant in its final assembly sequence.

Prepare one of the large acrylic panels

Decide how tall you wish the case to be and cut the two long sides from a sheet of acrylic using a small bandsaw. These sides must be a good fit within the quadrant. Drill three countersunk holes in the bottom for fixing the panel in position. Remove a strip of the protective backing from each side of both panels and rub the exposed acrylic with coarse wet & dry in order to roughen it up. This is where the adjacent panel will be glued on it. Screw the two opposite panels into the quadrant framework.

Cut, drill & fit two opposite acrylic panels inside the base quadrant

I use small brass wood-screws, 2 x 3/8" for this purpose. The two remaining sides should then be cut and drilled. Because it is the ends of these that butt onto the long sides already in position, there is no need to cut strips of the protective backing off the edges. As well as screwing the short sides to the base quadrant, I apply Evostik contact adhesive to the edges and also the surface to which they will be bonding on the long sides. The whole case, minus the top, has now become quite rigid.


Before fitting the top, the inner base should be cut from chipboard and edged with a wood surround. For the inner base surround, I prefer bevelled mahogany. The mahogany is cut using the chop saw in the same manner that the quadrant was cut.

The display case and top

Cut the inner base to be a snug fit in the display case

inner base complete with bevelled mahogany edging and unpainted sea

[JIM BAUMANN]

The inner base having been completed, the top may now be glued in position using Evostik contact adhesive.
Before fitting the top, remove the inside protective backing. If left on, it can be difficult to get off
as there are no exposed edges.
When it is dry, cut strips of protective backing from the outside edges where the veneer is to go and
roughen the acrylic surface with wet & dry paper.

The edging veneer is prepared by taping it onto a large board and sanding it down.
Then a good grain filler is painted on and allowed to dry.
After another sanding, I spray it several times (sanding down each time) with Clear Lacquer.
This is obtained from (in the UK )Halford�s car accessories.

The beauty of using lacquer rather than varnish is that it dries hard within a few minutes.
The lacquered edging strips are then cut out and glued on the case edges with Evostik contact adhesive.
It makes for a neater job if the corners are mitred. Once the glue has set, the veneer may be given
a final rub down with fine wet & dry paper. A final light spray of lacquer may then be applied to bring up
the gloss.

The base quadrant should then be unscrewed, pulled off the display case and filled and lacquered in the same way as the edging veneer.
After replacing the quadrant, run a scalpel carefully along the veneer edges all around the case and peel off the protective backing sheet on the inside and outside of the case.

The completed display case

The external base is made by cutting a piece of card to the size of the quadrant and sticking it on
a piece of green felt with contact adhesive applied to the card only.
Lay a steel ruler along the outside edge of the card and trim the green felt down to leave
a felt rim, the width of the ruler, all around.
Cut off the corners. Finally, apply contact adhesive to the edges of the card and fold the felt over,
pressing it down on top.


Making the green felt base....

The display case and base are now complete.....

However one or two additional notes may be appropriate.


I am amazed at the number of modelmakers, who, on being told the sequence of display case construction, then proceed to make the inner base first, followed by the display case, that in most cases, turns out to be either too big or too small for the base. If you assemble the case sides first, as described, it is an easy matter to make the base fit perfectly, as you are able to work through the open top. Also, it does not take long to mitre the corners of the veneer on the case edging, but a surprising number of modellers simply put it on with square ends; which do not look half as neat.


Go easy on the Evostik when gluing the sides of the acrylic together, a thick coating of adhesive on the inside of the corner joints is very unsightly.

Leave the protective backing on as long as possible.

It does not take long to make a display case.

I usually veneer and assemble the quadrant on the first day.
The second day, I cut and fit the sides and cut the top.
The third day, I cut and edge the inner base.
The fourth day, I veneer the case and finish it off.

[Olaf Held]

(...) I am amazed at the number of modelmakers, who, on being told the sequence of display case construction, then proceed to make the inner base first, followed by the display case, (...)

This could be due to the fact that most modellers build the models first, sitting in the water during construction, then the display case. With a little bit of ahead-thinking (how large and long is my model?) involved the order of construction can go the other way round (case first, then the model).

Thanks for sharing!

Happy case-constructing (HA!) ~ Olaf!

[Guest]

(...) I am amazed at the number of modelmakers, who, on being told the sequence of display case construction, then proceed to make the inner base first, followed by the display case, (...)

This could be due to the fact that most modellers build the models first, sitting in the water during construction, then the display case. With a little bit of ahead-thinking (how large and long is my model?) involved the order of construction can go the other way round (case first, then the model).

Thanks for sharing!

Happy case-constructing (HA!) ~ Olaf!

In the case of my first effort at making a sea base I had not originally planned on making a case at all for it, as I lacked the know-how to do so. Unfortunately dust is increasingly becoming an issue so I'm going to have to make one.

I think that in future I will make all scenic bases the same size (at least the same for each particular scale group, e.g 1:700) so that I can have a limited number of outer cases and just replace the inner base with a different model scene. This would save space and money, and the other models can be stored away from the dust!