Decal Distress

kennylibben · Post by **kennylibben** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 10:01 am

hey guys,

i know your probably going to make fun of me,

but i dont know how to use decals! you know the ones where you dip them in the water? thats all i know... is you dip them in the water. A quick response would be nice as i'd like to finish this kit before noon today... but i have many more im going to try to finish this week to clear our my stock so please post even after today.

Anywho.... anyone? I'll post pics when im done.

kennylibben · Post by **kennylibben** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 10:05 am

my brother wrote: you put them in warm water for 20 seconds or so and then you slide them off with your finger, then dab with a paper towel lightly. cut them out so you dont do them all together.

is this correct? Its been well over 10 years since he's done them so im not sure if he remembers correctly... but he probably does considering he used to build NASCARs, and did close to 100 of them. Many Many decals on NASCARs. thank god i didn't get into that hobby!

les · Post by **les** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 10:24 am

Kenny, this is the way I do it.

1. Make sure the surface of your model is as smooth as possible. I use a gloss coat on the area the decal is going to be applied.

2. Trim the clear carrier on the decal close to the number or letters as possible.

3. Put the decal in a bowl of water. I use warm water as it works a little faster. When it's wet the decal will slide off the carrier (paper backing) easily, don't force it or it will tear. If you leave it in the water for a longer period the decal will float off the carrier.

4. If the decal is still on the carrier, slide it off to the spot you wish it to be. If the decal is off the carrier in the water, I use tweezers to pick it up and lay it down on the model. You can reposition the the decal (I usually use a paint brush for this) by just putting a drop of water on it and slide it to the exact position you wish it. I use a paint brush to wick off any extra water when the decal is in position.

5. If you've found it's in the wrong position, you can still go back and repeat the steps by putting on another drop of water and moving the decal around.

6. After you have finished applying all the decals (make sure you didn't touch any of them and move or remove them) set the model aside to dry.

7. After it's dry, you may find the decals didn't pull into some tight places. Put some Solvaset or Micro Sol on the decal and let it dry. The decal should pull down to any surface. You may have to repeat this step a couple of times to make it pull tight.

8. When everything is dry and it looks the way you are happy with, coat it with matt flat (if the ship is flat). Let it set and you're done. When it's done right you won't be able to see any of the clear carrier edges. Good luck, hope this helps.

kennylibben · Post by **kennylibben** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 10:46 am

sounds good... i dont know if i'll do all the extra stuff like glossing and flatting and all as i dont model for looks like you guys do... its jut to relax and whatnot... so i'll just do the water shebang but thanks for all the insight! i'll post pics when im done.

Oh.... And who said anything about it being on a SHIP?

les · Post by **les** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 10:50 am

Ships, planes, cars, the system's all the same.

kennylibben · Post by **kennylibben** » Sat Oct 01, 2005 1:20 pm

THE DARK SIDE!

The pic says it all.... but just so you dont ban me.... they are for my 1/144 IJN Kumano. and yes... i said THEY.

From "A":

To "Z":

i'm not sure why but the pic makes it look like there is yellow or something on the wing, or the wing is not connected to the fueselage? but it is the same color as the rest of the plane, and connected.

les · Post by **les** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 1:31 pm

At least it's a seaplane.

kennylibben · Post by **kennylibben** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 5:25 pm

yes, and it will be on my Kumano, most likely to get blasted to smithereens by those pesky allies!

Matsuman · Post by **Matsuman** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:35 am

>>>When everything is dry and it looks the way you are happy with, coat it with matt flat (if the ship is flat)<<<

Can you be more specific when you say....use to apply the "coating with matt flat"?

Thanks,
Kin M.

Rob J · Post by **Rob J** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:03 pm

So am I to understand that if you put on a coat of future before you decal-rise it then put on a coat of moel master spray flat finish, it will return to its original flatness?

Post by **Timmy C** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:07 pm

Yes Rob, it will do that. Even thought I did that, there was still silvering (see my Bf-110G-4 Nightfighter)

Rob J · Post by **Rob J** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:14 pm

Well im not sure what kind of finish my spitfire should have, some planes have gloss finishes and some have flat.

kennylibben · Post by **kennylibben** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:39 pm

i'd go with flat. doubt they were "shiny" during the war.

Post by **Timmy C** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:41 pm

Ooo bright shiny thing! Let's shoot it!

kennylibben · Post by **kennylibben** » Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:50 pm

Timmy C wrote:Ooo bright shiny thing! Let's shoot it!

that can be arranged. IJN Kumano en route to Vancouver.... prepare for shore bombardment.

les · Post by **les** » Fri Oct 07, 2005 9:54 am

We had these two discussions at the club meeting last night. One of the members suggests that you mix Tamiya acrylic thinner with Future and it will go on a lot smoother. He mixes 2 parts Future to 1 part thinner.

The other discussion revolved around aircraft maintenance. The feeling was that bombers and the like pretty much weathered out. American fighter pilots liked to have the aircraft clean and the paints were smoother. The feeling being that a smooth surface would give them more speed. I'd say to check your reference photos for these details.