1/350 USS Bennington (CV-20)

[Rdutnell]

Roger that Russ. The hull is out.

[Rdutnell]

Update 95
D�j� vu again! Since I can�t continue on the flight deck, I thought I would go ahead and put the decals on the replacement AC-47.

Now it�s time for ice cream.

[Rdutnell]

Update 96
I went to the shop today and couldn�t be happier with the results. The heat gun worked great, and it didn�t take long at all. I would bet that the heat gun wasn�t on a total of 60 seconds, max. I was there maybe 30 minutes, and that�s because I showed them the model (minus the island) and the lights. They liked it, and were very complimentary, which of course, made me feel good.

I knew it would go faster with the heat gun, but man, I wasn�t really expecting it to go that fast. Basically, I turned the gun on, pointed it at my hand until it got hot, passed it over the front of model 3 or 4 times, and thought I would test it. To my astonishment, it friggin� moved. I simply pushed down with my fingers on the corners until they were down far enough and stopped. I had to do it twice on the port side and three times on the starboard side to get it where I wanted it, and I was back home in less than an hour feeling really good about it.

Of course, the deformed deck isn�t exactly like Bennington�s, but it�s a pretty good imitation, and I think it is as good as can be attained without a LOT more effort, due to scaling issues. Obviously, the plastic deck is way thicker than a real deck, scale wise. This effect s, somewhat, the way the material behaves to torsional forces. Still, it�s pretty cool that the model cracked, on the starboard side, in the same location as the real deck did. But, you figure, in real life that there was this huge force (the breaking wave) slamming down across the front of the flight deck. Forcing it down to the quad gun tubs, and beyond on the ends since there was nothing there to stop them except for the internal force of the deck itself. I essentially did the same thing. I just had to heat the plastic to change the physical properties of the plastic and to get the relative force to material strength ratio roughly the same, so it really isn�t too surprising that the results are similar. (Sorry, the engineer in me finds this really great stuff.) Enjoy the photos!

I could possibly have gone down a little farther in the middle, but the deck is smashing the guns as it is, and the one thing I didn�t want to do is go too far and not be able to fit the flight deck on the ship properly. As it is, it adequately shows what I wanted and I am just happy that Murphy didn�t show up for this phase of the build. YEA!!!

Well, now that one of my five main concerns on the model is behind me, the others being weathering (which I have never done before), the island mast and radars, the catwalks, and of course rigging. I can forge ahead toward the next one, which is probably going to be weathering.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

Update 97
D�j� vu again! The replacement AC-47 is complete and glued in her spot. I rotated it from the original position because you can see it better from the port side, the primary viewing side.

As you can see, I put all of the detail on this one that I did on the first one. It was fun the first time, and it was easier this time, and just as fun. The replacement may even be better than the first one. In any event, I�m one step closer to putting the flight deck on.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

Update 98
I�ve switched gears again and have been working on the frame. I�ve been sanding on it and planning the layout of graphics and text that I am going to put on it. If you have been following this build then you have seen pictures of the frame.

Below are 2 pictures of a test of the clear decals on the frame to see what the small text will look like. They aren�t pretty because I just slopped them on.

I can read it clearly from 3 feet or so away and it will look even better after the wood has 2 or 3 coats of polyurethane on it and the decals are installed properly.

NOW I WANT YOUR INPUT!!!

I�m trying to decide on the layout of the graphics and text that I want to put on the frame and I WANT YOUR HELP!

Below are AutoCad plots of proposed layouts. They images were exported from PDF�s printed to scale in 11�x17� format, so the front and back are broken into three parts; left, center, and right, with the left on top, the center in the middle and the right on the bottom. Good match points for the front are the Bennington logos.

So, there are 4 options for the front, WHICH OPTION DO YOU PREFER?

OPTION I:

OPTION II:

OPTION III:

OPTION IV:

If you prefer either Option I or Option II for the front, WHICH OPTION DO YOU PREFER FOR THE SIDES?

OPTION I:

OPTION II:

If you prefer Option III or Option IV, the sides will look like this:

For all options the back looks like this:

Let me know what you think! I will appreciate it.
I�m going to post this on the Main forum too, to perhaps increase the number of responses I get, if I get any.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

Update 99
I had no responses to my poll on this thread. I did however get some response on the Main Forum. The result is that I am going with a modified version of Option IV.

I eliminated the Kanoya Airfield Strike title, enlarged the ribbon rack and rearranged the Air Group patches so I could make them bigger as well. I�m looking into brass, faux brass or plastic lettering for the ship name and date, so they will stand out more. What I do is going to depend on availability and cost.

On another note, I just completed putting the finish on the frame. I used Minwax spray Polycrylic. The directions say to apply at least 3 coats. It took me 9, but I put it on thin to make sure I didn't get runs or sags. The good thing is that the instructions say to allow at least 30 minutes between coats, so I allowed an hour. The bad thing is that they say that if you can't recoat in 1-1/2 hours, to wait at least 72 hours before recoating. The other bad thing was that I started at 11pm, so no sleep for me last night.

Before each coat I would buff sand with 220 grit sandpaper and wipe it down with a damp towel. I took the pictures below after 8 coats.

The plan now is to let it dry a couple of days before I start applying decals. If it looks like it needs another coat I will wait the requisite 3 days and give it another lick.

CHEERS!!!

[Rdutnell]

Update 100
It�s hard to believe that this is Update 100. It doesn�t seem like I�ve posted 99 updates since I made my first post on July 6, but so it is. I think I have made good progress and have accomplished a lot since then, but there is a LOT more to do still, and now is when it gets difficult. But it�s best, at this stage, not to look at the big picture, but to focus on the task at hand.

The task at hand of late hasn�t been on the model, but on the frame for the model. So it continued today. One of the things that I had not resolved was how I was going to do the ship name and date of the display. I didn�t want to do them as decals, because I think they should stand out from the rest of the information I�m putting on the frame. On the other hand I don�t want them to overwhelm the other graphics and test either.

A trip to Michael�s solved my problem. I found some black stick on letters called Sticko from EKSuccess. They are poorly labeled as neither the size, nor font type is provided. The closest thing to identification on the package is in 3 languages, none of which is Chinese, where they were made, and the languages are mixed up, but it�s supposed to say �Alphabet Black Small�. Anyway, I had the scaled printout with me and the font type was close to what I had and a little larger (0.6�versus0.5�) but I thought that they would look good. Each package had one of each letter capital and lower case and each number. Because Bennington has 4 �n�s� it, I had to buy 4 packs. Fortunately they were under $2 each so it was a good deal. Unfortunately, they didn�t have slightly smaller ones for the date, so the date is the same size as the name but the name is uppercase and the date is in lower case.

The frame looked good and I didn�t think it needed another coat, so after waiting 36 hours since the last coat of Polycrylic, I decided to put the Ship name and Date on. I marked off the center of the frame horizontally with masking tape, decided where I wanted the letters to be vertically and attached a string at that height across the face of the frame. Starting at the center (the end of the 2nd �n� in Bennington) I first worked toward the front and then toward the back trying to get the letters in the right orientation and maintaining the same spacing between letters. I then did the same for the date. It came out pretty well I think.

The next step is applying the decals. I�m using different methods for the text and the graphics. The text I have printed in mirror image on clear decal paper. The graphics I have printed normally on photo paper. The decals I sprayed with lacquer, to fix the ink. I have been testing several methods of attaching them on the inside bottom of the frame so that I do it right when it matters.

I would use the spray lacquer or Polycrylic, but the CiC has barred me from spraying in my office/workshop (I�m surprised I made it this long. I guess the 9 coats of Polycrylic were too much.) and it�s in the 40�s outside, so I have been testing to see if Tamiya clear acrylic paint (X-22) will work.

The answer appears to be that it works like a charm for the decals; I just have to wait a few minutes after I paint the wood surface, before I apply the decal to it. Then I have to rub it on good, wait a little longer, dampen the back of the decal with a sponge and in a short time the backing comes off leaving the decal in all of its glory. When I�m finished, I will spray either another coat of Polycrylic or a layer of lacquer over the entire thing which will fix the decals in place.

Tests on the graphics showed that the clear paint worked good on them too, and the best results were obtained if the graphic was sprayed with lacquer first as well. So now it�s time to start putting them on. I think I will start on the back so if I mess up, it won�t be as visible. But, let�s hope that doesn�t happen.

The next post will show it finished.

CHEERS!!!

[LE BOSCO]

hundred updates,but always also interesting
Cheers
Nicolas

[Rdutnell]

Update 101A
Thanks Nicolas. I appreciate it. I hope you find 101 as interesting as the previous 100.

Well, I finished putting on the decals and can�t get all of the pictures on one post so I�m splitting them into two posts. I hope you enjoy the photos.

To Be Continued�

[Rdutnell]

Update 101B
And here are the rest of the pix�

You may have noticed that in some of the pictures the wood appears to be darker. I took the pictures with Auto flash and with the flash turned off. The lighter pictures, which were taken with the flash off, are more representative of what it really looks like, so I selected them if available, but for some angles the better shot was obtained with the flash on even though the color is slightly off.

I am extremely pleased with the way it has turned out thus far, even though I�m not quite finished. I still need to put at least one more coat of Polycrylic on it to fix the decals, and I�m probably going to put 2 or 3 on, depending on how it looks after the first one. I also need to attach the hardware for the lighting.

In Hindsight: Even though I like the frame as it is, there are some issues with it. One or two pix and text aren�t perfectly square, but the biggest issue is the front. Although I like having the Air group patches larger so you can see them better, to me it kind of over loads the front to the left visually. The smaller ones arranged offset as I had them earlier provided better balance. And I should have moved the Bennington patches in about �� each. But, I guess the focus of the model is the ship and the Air groups (or at least Air ), and so is the front of the frame, so I can live with it.

Now it�s time for another Polycrylic session.

CHEERS!!!

[LE BOSCO]

HI Russel

I confirm, it is always interesting
best regards
Nicolas

[Rdutnell]

Update 102
I'm glad you find it interesting Nicolas. I hope this update doesn't disappoint you too much. It's not too exciting, but it all has to be done.

I didn�t have much time to work on the model today, but I did put a layer of Polycrylic on the frame. I�m going to let it sit a couple of days, buff it and perhaps add one more coat.

I also decided to use the little time I had to mount the island onto a small board to make it easier to put the detailing on. I have thought about this quite a bit, first whether or not to mount it to the ship or leave it separate for the detail work, and then if left separate, how to mount it and what to mount it to. I even posted a question about it on the Calling all WWII Essex... Fans (I believe) and received mixed recommendations. Remembering how difficult it was maneuvering Missouri around to put detail on her, I decided to leave the island off for this work.

I considered various methods of accomplishing this including gluing, screwing and bolting. In the end I glued it using the materials I had available, which included a 9� x 3�� piece of �� plywood and some 1/8� thick clear acrylic sheeting. I needed to mount the island up off of the board to accommodate the wiring, so I first super glued three acrylic strips to the board, situated the wiring around the strips, and taped it down. I then tacked the island to the acrylic strips with super glue.

This should provide a stable base for detailing, yet be easy to remove for mounting on the ship, which I think will be the most delicate part, because of the wiring. I might have to have a friend or the CiC help me accomplish that task, but that�s waaaay in the future.

Below are a couple of pictures of the island on the completed base.

What to do next? Hmmmm?

[ArizonaBB39]

Your build looks fantastic!

[Christian M.]

Hello,

this is a fantastic and impressive work from you so far, congratulations! I'm curious how it goes with next steps you do.

The pleasure and more important my courage to start in near future with my own USS Essex in 1/350 rose much by reading your building report here. May I will do soon in slow steps and give Essex a place in my Yard, after main problem will be solved� missing instruction / manual of kit (I purchased kit at a flea market a year ago for 30.00 EUR (normally it costs around 80 � 90.00 EUR) and missing instruction I ordered at Importer for Germany now).

Cheers,
Christian

[Rdutnell]

Thanks ArizonaBB39 and Christian! It's been a lot of fun so far, and I too am "curious how it goes with the next steps I do," because I am starting to get to the trickier parts of the build. Since I am relatively inexperienced with PE and rigging, that part always intimidates me a bit as I am worried that I will mess it up and blemish the whole model. I also have weathering coming up even sooner, and I have never even tried that before.

The uncertainty of that phase also concerns me, but a few weeks (or perhaps even months) ago Tracy White said something that helps me a lot in this endeavor. I'll paraphrase, but he more or less said that modeling was an exercise in getting from Point A to Point B, and you have to determine the best way to do that and execute it. If you mess up, you shouldn't get mad or upset. All you've done is change the game so that now you have to get from Point C to point B, with a whole new set of challenges. Thinking about it like that helps me push through the intimidating parts.

Take for example the SK-2 radar or the Mk 37 5" gun director radars, fairly prominent PE features, that are not easy to fold and assemble neatly (for me anyway). What is the worst that can happen? The simple answer is that I botch it up so that it is not useable and have to buy another PE set to replace it. Now of course, that is not desireable since they aren't cheap, but it is doable.

Another piece of advise I received years ago from an old man I was surveying with has carried me through life well and applies to modeling too I think. He used to say that worrying was a waste of time and energy, because most of what you worry about never happens, and most of the rest of it you can't do anything about anyway. So true!

Good luck with your build Christian and if you need some plans let me know and I will scan mine and send them to you. They are marked up quite a bit, but you can still read them.

[Christian M.]

Hello Russel,

lucky as I am, I received the plan of the Essex kit today from Importer in Germany! So no need, but thank you very much for your offer here.

I build my Essex with the large WEM PE Set for the ship (radar equipment there as PE part can scare me, huge, many parts and will not be easy to do!) and PE sets for the planes too. Still not bought are the brass barrels for the 5inch guns and the 40mm Bofors ... and further plane sets of that 3 types on board (Hellcat, Avanger and Dauntless).
Construction will be done mostly out of the box, means I will not make any large corrections, simply because I will be happy when I finish ship in a good state as kit is.

BTW ... I started today with kit with glue, putty and sandpaper at connection between upper and lower hull part (I make full hull, not Waterline version) ... which is as always at Trumpeter not fitting good. A construction report about starts then tomorrow or Thursday.

Cheers,
Christian

[Rdutnell]

Excellent Christian!
I am anxious to see yor build progress in WIP. Let me know when you start posting.
HAVE FUN!!!

[Russ2146]

As far as flight deck crew, I don't believe there would be any visible difference between the eras and I believe that there are modern flt dk crew available, in pre-painted PE if nothing else.

You would have to add the tan band of course.

[Rdutnell]

Yeah, I've been debating getting some more men anyway. I have Tamiya's 144 piece Crew Set, but I'm not sure how bendable they are, as I haven't even opened the package. But my guess is that they are not, at least not without applying heat, and as small as they are, this could be a dicey proposition. Has anyone out there used the Tamiya Crew Set? If so, could, or did, you bend them? If you did, how did you do it?

[Christian M.]

Because still thinking about same problems...
Beside Tamiya Set I only know 2 sets from Pit Road with ready painted IJN Seamen (80 figures each set). The ready painted PE crew does not impress me, simply they are flat and not full figures what is even in 1/350 scale visible.
Only for larger scale 1/200 (or even larger as that) it becomes better with figures from German manufacturer Preiser and others as accessories for model railways in 1/220. There are seaman inside, bu also other figures useable too.