1/72 Yamato - or a steep learning curve!

[herbieham]

HELP!!!

I can't sort this out

1/150 scale drawing, what percentage to use to turn it into a 1/72 on the photo copier, I can't handle the math, and the charts that have worked up to now for me don't have 150 conversion on them!

Its embarrasing i know, but...............

help!

[Capit�o Norbert]

HELP!!!

I can't sort this out

1/150 scale drawing, what percentage to use to turn it into a 1/72 on the photo copier, I can't handle the math, and the charts that have worked up to now for me don't have 150 conversion on them!

Its embarrasing i know, but...............

help!

i think is necessary some measure to calculate it.
example: the keel have 1.50 meters with this measure is more easy to reescale to 1:72
i think if you reescale 1.50 to 1:72 the keel(with 1.50) stay with 2.08 meters in 1:72

p.s. now the percentage of ampliation needs calculate the ampliantion using again some measure to do it...
if i am not wrong

[MrMidnight78]

Hi, found a scale calculator on a thread somewhere, can't remember where though. I can email it to you if you'd like or if someone here knows which thread it was could direct you to it?

[Dave Richardson]

Hi Herbie,

Norberto is correct; percentage is 208.

The way I calculate the percentage conversion is: [SMALLER SCALE DIVIDED BY LARGER SCALE] X 100

So, in this case its: 150 divided by 72 = 2.08 then you multiply this by 100 to get the precentage increase [in this case 2.08 x 100 = 208%]


I'm currently preparing the ground for a 1/72 Dreadnought, and none of the drawings in the AOTS book seem to be at that scale, so I use the above calculation method a lot!

Hope it helps, and great model, by the way. I don't post on here very often, but I read the scratchbuild forum every day, and have been following your build since the start. Keep up the good work!

[Capit�o Norbert]

Hi Herbie,

Norberto is correct; percentage is 208.

The way I calculate the percentage conversion is: [SMALLER SCALE DIVIDED BY LARGER SCALE] X 100

So, in this case its: 150 divided by 72 = 2.08 then you multiply this by 100 to get the precentage increase [in this case 2.08 x 100 = 208%]


I'm currently preparing the ground for a 1/72 Dreadnought, and none of the drawings in the AOTS book seem to be at that scale, so I use the above calculation method a lot!

Hope it helps, and great model, by the way. I don't post on here very often, but I read the scratchbuild forum every day, and have been following your build since the start. Keep up the good work!

Hello Dave
perfect way!

[herbieham]

you guys are the best!

thankyou!!!!


production of main turretts about to begin!

[Timmy C]

For reference, I had made a little guide on Working with Scales in the FAQ section: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=33867&p=199558

The last section of the post deals with converting plans between scales.

[HvyCgn9]

I worked it out as being 208.333% for enlargement purposes! I found a program called oddly enuff! "Scale calculator" You can put in what ever scales you wish to convert and whatever units you like working in.
I found it online.....if only I could remember where??

Cheers Bruce

PS If anyone wants the program PM me with an e-mail address and I will send it to ya!

[Richard J OMalley]

The problem with using a percentage is that plans are seldem on the mark .Every photocoper will change the dimentions a little .I tell the printer that it is X " long and I need the copy to be X " long based on the ships length and he makes it so .There are three different way to express the length of a ship .Length overall ,length on the waterline and length between perpendiculars .Some sources express it as lbp which is close to lwl but not always .

[Rob Wood]

I struggled with this problem for several years during my Bismarck build. The larger the plan sheet, the greater the chance for error. No matter how careful the original draftsman was, each time a drawing is photocopied, all of the lines become distorted, due to the curved nature of the lens of the copier. It's not obvious in small details or in curved areas, but if you put a straight edge on a long line, such as the waterline, it's noticeable the first time the original drawing is photocopied. If the waterline is bent, the entire hull drawing is bent. If that copy is then copied, the distortion compounds, and each generation of copies adds to the problem.

The same issue arises when scanning. (The scanner also uses a curved lens.) A similar problem occurs when printing, as each printer prints with a certain amount of imperfection in scaling.

I finally had to scan the drawings, take them into Photoshop, warp them until the waterline was straight, and then use one printer to print each drawing. The advantage to this approach is that the drawings are virtually identical, each time I print a section. Since I build in 1:144 scale, most parts I work on require only an 8 x 10 standard sheet of printer paper. I simply use the marquee tool to choose that area or piece, and print it. it makes the drawings manageable. It also enables me to easily determine if that particular part or fitting is scaled properly, especially if I know the actual dimensions of the original, 1:1 object.

For example, Bismarck's prop:



I know the real dimensions, and I know, using simple math, what the diameter should be in 1:144. If I print it out on an 8 x 10 sheet, and then measure it, I can easily scale it in Photoshop until it prints correctly. This may sound tedious, but it produces excellent results.

Rob

[herbieham]

[herbieham]

not posting as often, but construction still on going

barrells are aluminium tube and balsa, covered in layers of heat shrink
once painted, look very good

also very cheap and easy considering i have no access to a lathe at all at the moment

[russclark]

very nice way of doing the barrels,finding a way to build somthing out of nothing is scratch building at its best

[Capit�o Norbert]

Nice gun Herbie
pure scratch

[herbieham]

comments, especially from such superb modellers here very appreciated.

thankyou

[Ticonderoga]

not posting as often, but construction still on going

barrells are aluminium tube and balsa, covered in layers of heat shrink
once painted, look very good

also very cheap and easy considering i have no access to a lathe at all at the moment

Hi Herbie,

Thanks for tip re heat shrink! I use it so often in electrical work, I never made the connection with modelling...... Will keep it firmly in mind from now on.

Scaling and plans can be a real nightmare, I had the devil's own job sorting it out for my Kirov Build. I try to use a plan printing shop where I can as at least they have the "best" machines and tend to use very good quality paper..... In the end I still had to make some judgement calls and unless some one "measures" my model in fine detial, I don't think small assumptions and compromises will be spotted, even at 1/72.

Lovely build Herbie, I enjoy looking

Andrew

[Yamato72]

hello guys happy new year to all ..
Herbi great job with the main gun

I finally optimized with the new engines the rotation of the tower 460mm, with these motors 12V, 90rpm, 40 oz-in spur gear motor, works very well to reduce tension here in video and 7.2Volt for the test, the Final use a voltage of 6 volts.
There is still no stroke end, for the following positions right-left-center
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vR3sJ8fDzyo
a big salute from venice
Rolf

[Ticonderoga]

Hi Rolf,

The gun traverse looks really nice......

Andrew

[Luky]

Great project!
Where will you get the brass props that are correct for that monster?

[herbieham]

Hi Luky

Lohanna dockyard built manificent props for me, they are pictured somewhere along the way

I have 10 days until I finish my job deployment, go home and can really get back to my yamato.
I have run out of materials here in melbourne, and can't make the trip across town to get more.
But plenty at home...........
I really want to do a basin trial soon.