Any tips for painting dozens of 1/700 aircraft?

[Jeffcsr]

I have 3 1/700 aircraft carriers I'm working on and am wondering what tips there are to painting the dozens of airplanes that I'd need to add to the carriers.

I've seen them being held on ?toothpicks? sticking out of a block of clay. What's the best way to attach them to the toothpicks? Rubber cement, instant glue, white glue?


TIA

[Timmy C]

If they do not require assembly (asides from wheels), I'd just paint them on the sprue (whether airbrush or a big brush) and then touch up the connection points later.

[JasonW]

If they do not require assembly (asides from wheels), I'd just paint them on the sprue (whether airbrush or a big brush) and then touch up the connection points later.

This is what I do with 1/700 aircraft as well. I usually rattle can them a base coat and then touch up depending on the scheme.

[Jeffcsr]

These would be the 1/700 Trumpeter WWII airplanes

[Ross MacMillan]

Painting on the sprue is ideal, but it may be worth checking to see if you're satisfied that the models don't need any serious cleaning up of mould lines, etc, as was the case with those from my Italeri Nimitz. After I was done with the files I made some double sided tape to hold the models in place while I sprayed them with undercoat (they tend to blow away otherwise). Once dry I hand-painted all the aircraft production-line style one half at a time, once fully dried the painted half can be held while the other side is painted; obviously this entire step can be skipped if you have the correct colour in spay form.
After the base coat has completely dried I do the canopies and other details, varnish the canopies and then give the whole model a black wash to pronounce the grooves and details.

[Cliffy B]

I've found for taping aircraft or any other small parts down for painting that "Artists Tape" is the best to use. Its low tack and meant for taping paper to boards and for masking off areas for watercolor or acrylic paintings (mainly the edges). Just don't try to use to mask for model paint as it will bleed through big time. Found that out the hard way... It will hold the parts well enough for painting and drying (of glue and paint) and won't leave any residue after removal. I usually loop a big strip of it and stick it to some scrap cardboard.

Any art supply store should have it and it comes in varying widths.

Example: http://www.dickblick.com/products/artist-tape/

I'll echo painting on the sprue if you're going for for a mono-color paint job. If you're doing something more involved like USN tri-color I usually paint them overall white with a 2nd coat on the bottom and then add the light blue and then the dark blue painting the entire upper surface with each blue. It builds up nicely and covers those pesky clear planes well as they need extra coats to get a smooth color. I always brush paint 1/700 and even 1/350 aircraft as I personalyl find it easier and it avoids the pooling effect some airbrushes/rattle cans can leave in areas you won't necessarily see.

Hope that helps.
-Mike

[JimVarnellABH2USN]

One trick I have found for attaching them to rods or toothpicks to paint individual planes is to use "HOT GLUE"
It will peal off easy and will not destroy the paint from on side to the other, just a dab will do and this also works for adding wheels and weapons to the underside.
Just dab a bit on top stick a pick and flip, let it cool and start working on wheels and weapons.
be sure to use the "clear" glue sticks so if you dont get it all off you wont see it.

practice this on some planes not going on model to perfect this trick, some times glue can "flow" faster then expected and don't get burn by the tip.
Good luck gents.