Kriegsmarine Tirpitz

[Stein Gildberg]

The German Battleship Tirpitz, sister ship of the famous Bismarck, is well known to modelers. Still, I dare say that far less documentation is available on the Tirpitz: Less original photo, less original drawings and less accurate models.

Tirpitz is, as known to all modelers, not a copy of the Bismarck. Most of the major differences are taken into account by the model manufacturers, but by far not all.
In addition to this comes the fact that Tirpitz had a longer operational life and underwent several modifications to almost everything from AA to �iron works�.

The Revell 1:350 Tirpitz is now some years old, but the kit still delivers a quite accurate ship. Of course you can�t use the railing. And the model is a mix of different Tirpitzes from different periods.

I sat out to build the most correct Tirpitz 1:350-model as I got possible do, much in the same way as I did with my Bl�cher model (presented to this forum earlier).
And to help me in my work I collected several books and a complete set of (supposedly) original drawing in 1:100 scale.
I think that the examination of original photos makes the best starting point when decisions shall be made, but even photos � and especially the subtext - can�t always be trusted...

Last summer, before starting the building, I visited the most of the anchorages used by Tirpitz in Norway (even for a Norwegian, it is a long way from Oslo to these fjords up north).

[Stein Gildberg]

I already had decided that I wanted to build the Tirpitz like she looked in 1942, shortly after Unternehmen (Operation) R�sselsprung at her anchorage in Bogen, in the Ofotfjord, close to Narvik (see picture).
Here, after her brief sortie against convoy PQ17, she had her base before returning to Trondheim later in the autumn.
At this point in time, Tirpitz probably was at the peak of her power and influence as a �Fleet in being�. After this point in time, the allied forces grew by the day eventually turning Tirpitz into more of a target than a real threat.

However � the first thing that needs to be addressed is the hull: I wanted to build a waterline model. So he hull sides� needs to be cut.
And the bow: While Bismark was built with a straight bow, Tirpitz was fitted with a curved one. However not by far as elegant as the one that her sister had. Almost straight and far less curved.

The new bow shape was made up by 2 Comp modeling clay and a lot of sanding..

[Stein Gildberg]

Well, since this is a "Completed Model"- chapter, I might as well - before continuing - show you how the model ship looks as finished!
All in all it took 7 months and 4035 parts to build it.

[Stein Gildberg]

Next step was to find the "correct" color: In 1942 paint quality and pigment was not of 2013-standard. Some colors were standard Kriegsmarine, but what makes this even more complicated is the fact that in 1942 it was alloved to mix colors.
So I decided to mix myself and compare the results with available photos.

It was clear to me that WEM colors Hellgrau 50 and Dunkelgrau 2(52) could well be used as light and dark color, with Revell 78 (Panzergrau) on the Starboard side as the onlt gray color. Also, the KM Schnellbootweiss is a good choice for the bow/stern.

But on Port side there is also a medium gray color...

It also became clear to me that Revell own Paint Scheme was not accurate in all details.
After several tests and comparisons, this is what I decided to go for:

[Stein Gildberg]

I wanted to do the best out of every detail, so I got my hands on LionRoar's Bismarck PE-kit, the Big Ed Tirpitz PE-kit, Wooden deck from Pontos and all available equipment sets for the Kriegsmarine from Veteran models.
The rest of the details had to be found in the parts bin, be made from plastic sheet or from whatever I could source in the household(!)

The detail in the small resin cast items from Veteran Models is really stunning!
Each 20mm Vierling is made up from 34 parts, the searchlights from about 20!

[Stein Gildberg]

The Pontos deck was treated with a teak-look wash. Before fitting I made some simple masking out of model tape and sprayed a swastika onto the deck - on the Port side - like it was during "R�sselsprung".

Allmost all detall was removed from the bulkheads before PE-and home-made details were fitted in accordance with the original drawings.
Tirpitz had, compared to Bismarck, tube-shaped ventilators all around - which are not depicted in the kit. Made from stretched sprue.

[Stein Gildberg]

Ships boats were treated with LionRoar PE before painting by hand. Note clear plastic windows in the boats

Paravanes looks much nicer now!

[Elbe1]

Hey Stein,

once again another brilliant Kriegsmarine build with an amazing attention to detail!




cheers, Daniel

[Apophysis]

Stunning work! I admire all your models especially "Bl�cher"

regards
Dirk

[Stein Gildberg]

Thanks folks!

Well, I'll follow up with some more details:
In this build I have used a couple of new tricks that I picked up from other modellers here on this forum.
In the same way, I hope that my own close-up photo will inspire other modellers to further develop this common hobby of ours.

[Stein Gildberg]

The main mast was telescopic to allow the ship to pass under the bridges of the strategic Kiel Canal.
In Norway too, the mast was kept in the lowest position - in order not to reveal the ship trough artifical smoke-screens laid to conceal tuk ship from enemy bombers.
The Crows Nest in the mast was removed from Tirpitz in 1941, and is therefore wrong for my model.

All yardarms etc in plastic are too thick to scale, therefore everything except the main body of the mast was rebuilt from scratch. An original mast from the kit to the left (picture)

[ArizonaBB39]

Excellent work!

[Stein Gildberg]

Then to the forward superstructure:
As always, you cannot check the references too often: Tirpitz is not, as previously underlined, a copy of the Bismarck.
That also goes for the forward superstructure...

Tirpitz had two quadruple torpedo tubes, hence one director each side in the open bridge area for these. Tirpitz also had wooden crates in all of this area. She (the Germans actually called the ship �he�) also had only 2 searchlight controls here. I did not realize this as I built the superstructure and had to correct it later on � a much more complicated task when every fragile detail is in place... The following photo show the uncorrected superstructure.

The smokestack w hangars, ships boats and platforms is also in place. PE detail from the LionRoar set, serachlight from Veteran Models really looks good, I think!

[LE BOSCO]

very nice work Stein
nicolas

[MartinJQuinn]

Beautiful. Great attention to detail.

[Stein Gildberg]

Thank you for the nice comments!

Here follow some pictures of the (more or less) completed forward superstructure. This time with correct deck and instrumentation..

[Stein Gildberg]

In Norway, Tirpitz's 380 and 150mm guns had blast-bags installed all the time. No such thing is incl in the set, but they are relativly easy to make. I use 2K epoxy putty and form it around the barrels, comparing to available photo.
Originally, the color probably was a kind of off-white, but after a couple of winters in a humid, salty climate photo shaow a darker "deteriorated" color, so I decided to go for a tan, worn look.

Railing along main deck with opening for the gangways are glued using CA. There is a "ditch" in which the plastic railings are supposert to be positioned. This is actually ideal for the PE-railing, but you need to fill the "ditch" with CA. Use your protection mask to avoid the fumes!!

The aft superstructure is also finished with most of the detail in place: Loudspeakes (Veteran Models), cable reels with "rope/hoses", and a partly manned 37mm AA C30.

And then - time to fix all the major components together before installing the model in the diorama.

[LE BOSCO]

HI Stein

magnificent work!!very accurate details
congrats
Nicolas

[Stein Gildberg]

Well - time to add some water!

I hope the pictures talks for themselves, but here is the summary:

The base was fitted with holes for screws for fix the model to the board. (two pieces of wood have previously been fitted and glued to the inside of the ships hull.)
Board was fixed 1mm below top of the frame to allow for "water", and some "pits" were carved out for small ships boats.
After having primed the base with some white water-based paint, I posioned the model. Tape along the waterline will be of great help to avoid spill, and then finegrained filler was applied and worked to shape by my wifes cake-brush!
When making waves - remember that flags etc also is influended by the same wind that create the waves..

While still fresh- remove the tape and carefully work the filler towards the hull. Position the ships boats. Lets dry at least one day.

Base paint is a mix of acrylics- quite dark for a cloudy day in a Norwegian fjord. Standard childrens water-colors will actually do. One layer only assures shades and contrasts. Let dry, and cover the base paint with glossy liquid floor wax. Apply a lot. Let dry and repeat all over - as much as 8-10 times depending of how you want the finish to look. The more layers, the more "depth" in the "water".

[Stein Gildberg]

Some more pics