1:192 USS Missouri modern configuration

[Fliger747]

Luky:

Note that the aft tripod legs start on top of these stub bulkheads at the back of the stack.

Cheers: T

Heading off for travels for a bit so absence here is not due to lack of interest!

[jcmackay]

Luky,

It's good to see your perseverance with such a complex project; I don't think I'd have the patience because it would drag on and on if I were attempting such a project! One of the great things about this forum is there are plenty of people who read these pages who are ready and willing to help out with photos and other info.

Keep up the good work!

John

[Luky]

Thanks JCMackay.
It can get frustrating. Most of the problem is getting the correct information and photos.
Unfortunately photos distort and most of the views are from people standing on the deck or on the pier.
I appreciate any photo though.

Fliger747 has helped me a lot with his photos.

[Fliger747]

Tramping around NZ for a few weeks, so my project is on the shelf for a bit. When I get back I will see if there are any detail areas I have photos of that you might need.

Keep slogging away! Cheers. T

[Luky]

This is todays posting of photos.
Mostly working on railings. Lots of railings.

[Oterlia]

Looks nice. How many hours do you use on it each week ?

[Luky]

I work on it about 4 hours per day.

[Fliger747]

Hi:

Checking in from new Zealand, lots of progress. What method are you using to solder the rails and the mast works? I had just started the mast when I left.

Cheers: T

[Luky]

On the railings I use .020 thousandths wire.

I know it is too large, but it looks ok and is workable.

I use a pine block and make three lines with a ball point pen.
I press hard and the soft pine leaves a indentation for the wire to lay into.
All three rails fall into a .200 thousandths space.


I put blue tape in several spots to hold the wire in the grooves.
I use short pieces of wire .020 for the uprights and solder them one at a time measuring the distances between the uprights to fit the model. Then when I have a section finished I trim the ends making sure that the rails face outwards. Also when the section of railing is still taped down I take a finger sanding board and file the backs of the uprights of any excess solder.

After the section is bent to shape and it will fit right onto the model perfectly I mix up some Devcon 5 minute epoxy and apply it with a tooth pick to the spots where the rail will sit.

If for any reason I need to solder part of the railing while it is in place you need to put a small aluminum (rach clip) on the wire close to where you are soldering to keep the entire upright from becoming unsoldered.
The heat usually makes the epoxy come undone so repairs should be avoided.
IF the section being made fits as perfect as possible without pushing on it to make it fit
then you will not have many problems.

On large sections I just glue half then come back and glue the other half.

The big SECRET is trimming the rail.
Use finger nail clippers. They work perfect.

[Luky]

I will post more recent photos tomorrow. March 14th 2013.

[Luky]

More photos.
I reworked the ladders again.
Scale 1:192

[Fliger747]

Lots of progress! Will be able to work some more on mine next week when i get back.

Cheers: Tom

[Luky]

Hope you are having a good time.

I also reworked the bottom of the mounting of that "tuna tower".
It may not be perfect but thanks to your photos it is a lot better.
I just made the barrels for my 5 inch guns. I will be making the details for them today.

[Fliger747]

I made my 5" barrels by tapering toothpicks in a drill with sandpaper. Might try swiveling the head of my smaller drill press? Toothpicks seem to be a hard enough wood to work nicely for this.

Cheers. T

[Capit�o Norbert]

Hi Luky very good man
very interesting to see

[Luky]

Hi Luky very good man
very interesting to see

You are welcome. Luky

[Luky]

These are todays photos. Mar.20th 2013.

[Fliger747]

Donald:

Check out the area carefully around the Harpoon deck abeam the aft stack. There is a walkway which is at the levels of the two Tomahawk decks and connects them. The harpoon area is narrower. On Missouri there is a walkway Port and Stbd in the current configuration. Some ships had only one on the stbd side. The shapes are slightly different. I am not home now to be able to show you what this area looks like. Also on Missouri the aft Phalanx deck does not have rounded undercuts as is shown on plans for some other units of the class. One would think it would be easy to get info on this ship, but much out there is not correct or forthcoming in detail.

Keep up the good work! When it comes to finish what is your plan?

Regards: Tom

[Luky]

I have posted three times and the posts are not showing.
I see now that my posts did not show because I did not log in properly.
Sorry.

I will use light grey automotive primer on the superstructure.
Rusty red metal primer of the bottom and semi gloss for the black boot stripe.

[Fliger747]

Sounds good. On a wood model primers work well in hiding any grain. I always liked working with laquer as it sprays so well, though the last big spray project was the floats for my airplane. I did a car once using a zillion hand rubbed coats, if I had paid myself a Dollar an hour it would have been an expensive paint job?

I think I am going to have to redo the aft section of the tower mast, too much taper inboard. Do your plans show the width across the aft legs at the top?

Cheers: T