Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Set

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cwobeaman
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by cwobeaman »

:thumbs_up_1: Thanks for the response.... I'll make sure to document my WIP so that Ryan isn't the only one...

How do you feel about primers/self-etching primers and lacquers -vs- acrylics for base coats/colors? I come from the 1/12 1/24 car world where I use lacquers as foundations as much as possible because of the thin coats, drying time, ability to polish; but most importantly I can build enamels and acrylics upon them. Usually I'm shooting automotive paints and clearing with 2k or PPG products.

If there's metal, it gets some adhesion layer or self etch of some type before color is laid down.... Thoughts on this would be helpful, because the concept of building completed structures of multiple materials (styrene, brass, white metal, resin) that are finished products as its all brought together is daunting. I'm sure this will make me a better modeler and is already teaching me a lot with regard to planning out my builds.

** Please show me some love on this or point me to the right threads in the tips string. Thanks all!
V/R, Shannon
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-Marine CWO stationed in NYC/Long Island
cwobeaman@gmail.com
veliko_pile
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by veliko_pile »

cwobeaman wrote::thumbs_up_1: Thanks for the response.... I'll make sure to document my WIP so that Ryan isn't the only one...

How do you feel about primers/self-etching primers and lacquers -vs- acrylics for base coats/colors? I come from the 1/12 1/24 car world where I use lacquers as foundations as much as possible because of the thin coats, drying time, ability to polish; but most importantly I can build enamels and acrylics upon them. Usually I'm shooting automotive paints and clearing with 2k or PPG products.

If there's metal, it gets some adhesion layer or self etch of some type before color is laid down.... Thoughts on this would be helpful, because the concept of building completed structures of multiple materials (styrene, brass, white metal, resin) that are finished products as its all brought together is daunting. I'm sure this will make me a better modeler and is already teaching me a lot with regard to planning out my builds.

** Please show me some love on this or point me to the right threads in the tips string. Thanks all!

I always use Gunze products, for me they are the best. So for the primer I use Mr surfacer 1000 (spray bottle) and spray it through a straw in a bottle, then use it with the Airbrush. It will cover styrene, PE plastic, brass, all there is. Since you don't handle too much the ship parts there is a low risk in damaging the paint.

Gunze have a lot of paints that would work for US navy gray's and deck dark gray.

For little details , brush painted I use Vallejo acrylic paints.

If you wish to do weathering or washes, use Alclad Gloss finishes (aqua or laquer) and after that AK interactive, oils or other water based products
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Pontosmodel
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by Pontosmodel »

Well If you came from Auto modeling, I think that it is familiar to use Lacquer materials for PE parts.

Thank you
Kim
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cwobeaman
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by cwobeaman »

Yes Kim, but I see so many here's swearing by acrylic. I just think I'll lose to much detail with acrylic and then if I need to touch up, I'll run into clumping problems without a bunch or flow-aid/retarder. Thinking lacquer and enamel touch up is the more comfortable way for me, but I don't yet know. Takes a lot more time in prep/and clean up, but (at least) on the 1/12 scale car side; is well worth the work.
Last edited by cwobeaman on Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
V/R, Shannon
Semper Fidelis

-Marine CWO stationed in NYC/Long Island
cwobeaman@gmail.com
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Pontosmodel
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by Pontosmodel »

cwobeaman wrote:Yes Kim, but is see so many here's wearing by acrylic. I just think I'll lose to much detail with acrylic and then if I need to touch up, I'll run into clumping problems without a bunch or flow-aid/retarder. Thinking lacquer and enamel touch up is the more comfortable way for me, but I don't yet know. Takes a lot more time in prep/and clean up, but (at least) on the 1/12 scale car side; is well worth the work.
I think Aclylic touch is surely more smooth and unlimit expression than Lacquor or Enamel base.
But As I know, final touch over the Enamel or Lacquor base may have no problem except blending effect.
One important thing is every modeler are enjoying his work with his own ways.

Thank you
Kim

Personally I am also an Auto modeler from 1/6 Tamiya Bike sries to 20 F1 and 24 series (So I think Gunze lacquor is the best even for the ship modeling)
and I am an 1/8 Pocher series collector.
veliko_pile
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by veliko_pile »

I also prefer laquer and Gunze, I think it has the best finish you can get, a smooth and silk surface, Acrylics often (if not sprayed correctly) leave a "rough" surface, that in 350 is not very good since it's a so small scale.

For finer detail , painted with a brush acrylics are great
Dennis78
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by Dennis78 »

How would this detail set work with the Revell USS New York kit?

thanks
John
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Timmy C
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by Timmy C »

The Revell LPD-21 kit is the same as the Gallery/Trumpeter kit, so this set should work fine.
De quoi s'agit-il?
Dennis78
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Re: Pontosmodel 1/350 San Antonio Class LPD-21 Detail Up Se

Post by Dennis78 »

Thanks Tim
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