1/350 Enterprise CV-6

[LE BOSCO]

Hello Bob

a nice precision work
cheers
Nicolas

[ArizonaBB39]

Excellent work so far!

[pbudzik]

The structure for the forward 5" gallery is done



Paul

[LE BOSCO]

hello Paul
always has the quest of "more faithfully rendering" quest broadly achieved
your work is superb
cheers
nicolas

[EJFoeth]

I only now discovered this thread and your website. This is really excellent work!

[gtbred]

Man,Paul i wish i had your hull. just wonderful!

[pbudzik]

Well I screwed up and let myself get sidetracked, but it wasn't my fault. It was Ron Howard's fault with the movie "Rush." Put me back when I was working with Tamiya around FI. The time frame of the movie is when I got back into F1 after Dental School. Thanks to Tamiya, I had the opportunity to meet and talk with both Nikki Lauda and James Hunt on several occasions.



So I built display/shelves to finish off my workshop incorporating some Grand Prix diecasts:



Now back with the Enterprise, I was going over things to catch back up and start building the superstructure. I drew out the flight deck outline to use as a template. Interestingly, I found that the Trumpeter flight deck is over 12 scale feet short. At first I thought I had screwed up but rechecking the drawings and reorienting myself to the project, here is what I found.

With the front of Trumpeter flight deck in position, you can see how the aft elevator does not line-up



Also, there is no aft overhang:



Hopefully these errors were not carried into the 1/200 model.


Paul

[youngtiger1]

Oh man, what a project. I too would love to have a CV-6 but after I read what needs to be done to CV-9 to make it into CV-6 I stopped. Out of my lead at the moment since I'm just starting with ship modeling, however, I sure am enjoying reading your WIP and it gives me boost of courage to tackle this project someday. Totally awesome

Mike

[pbudzik]

Construction of the hanger sides began with a paper template to test that things were going to line up



The hanger sides were cut form sheet styrene using a pretty basic method. A typical carpenters square
is used against a straight edge clamped to the bench top. A block of wood is clamped to the straight edge
to act as a stop. The little white square is a piece of styrene cut to the height of the sides to act as a spacer
to position the square from the stop. Simply drawing the blade along the squares edge a few times
creates enough of a score to fold off each side.



You want to draw the blade in reverse so that it acts just line a scribing tool, removing material at the corners
of the blade circled in yellow. I keep a small sharpening stone handy.



If you try and cut by running the blade with the sharp edge first, all you really do is create a trough
and the blade can easily wander.





Paul

[JimRussell]

Paul,

Glad to see you are back at it, big scratch builds can seem to be "infinite" when you are in the middle of one.

Agree 100% with your cut vs scribe conclusion with a few quibbles.
1. You did not emphasize the dirt. Scribing with the back side generates a quantity of chips/shavings while the conventional "cut" does not (you know you are doing it right when there are plenty of white shavings).
2. Both sides of the "V" act as cutting edges not just the corners you circled in yellow.
3. The edge of the styrene piece after scribing is neither flat nor square. A few passes over a medium grit sandpaper that is resting on a FLAT surface gives a much better edge.

[Devin]

I've started using a fine scribing tool to cut styrene; one of the styles that removes a fine sliver of plastic as it scribes. Works really well.

[pbudzik]

Paul,

Glad to see you are back at it, big scratch builds can seem to be "infinite" when you are in the middle of one.

Agree 100% with your cut vs scribe conclusion with a few quibbles.
1. You did not emphasize the dirt. Scribing with the back side generates a quantity of chips/shavings while the conventional "cut" does not (you know you are doing it right when there are plenty of white shavings).
2. Both sides of the "V" act as cutting edges not just the corners you circled in yellow.
3. The edge of the styrene piece after scribing is neither flat nor square. A few passes over a medium grit sandpaper that is resting on a FLAT surface gives a much better edge.

Thanks Jim,
My drawing is a bit confusing (never mastered 3d software. That "triangle" view is looking at the blade as if you were going to stick it in your eye - so it's just the cross-section at the very tip - if that makes sense. It was meant to indicate the acute corners along the entire back side of the blade.

Your absolutely right about squaring up the edges, which I always do as well. I didn't go that far in my little "tutorial" but I think I'll add that on my web page.

Thanks for keeping me honest. Hope to make some real progress.

Paul

[ModelMonkey]

Hope you'll post more here. This is a terrific build and I am learning a lot from you.

[pbudzik]

Thanks Steve,
I've gotten pretty sidetracked with the instructional videos, but I think that will be slowing down soon. Now I'm waiting to see what comes down from some of these injection companies. They might make me obsolete.

Paul

[hypno7]

Now I'm waiting to see what comes down from some of these injection companies. They might make me obsolete.

Nooooo, not obsolete... does the assemble-yourself "furniture" warehouses make fine furniture craftsmen obsolete? I am also looking forward for more updates, as your work really motivates and inspires me.

[pbudzik]

Thank you for the encouragement. Although, I think it is about time to learn some Solid Works. I've been putting it off far too long.

Paul

[krgf15]

This is amazing!!! Im not sure if I missed it before, but were there significant problems with the Blue Water Navy Enterprise?

[pbudzik]

The Blue Water Hull is way off as well. John W has a lot posted on his reworking of their resin hull.
I am more oriented to scratch building so my first inclination is to just do it myself.

Paul