Master Models Blackening Agent

[Jon]

Interesting stuff reviewed for May 2013. How do you apply it, brush, dip, airbrush, all of the above?

How is it used when your parts aren't black? Most of the parts I paint aren't black. Does paint adhere better for paint?

http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/mi ... eview.html

[Peter Van Buren]

A caution. Tim wrote:

"I think it will really come in handy on photo etch mesh and other details that paint would tend to clog and cover up the details. The blackener would give you a dark color without covering up the surface detail."

The blackener is a caustic acid. You use it by immersing your metal piece in the solution. It works great on cheap chain, making it nice and black very easily. On brass barrels, the blackening is thin and can be scratched through.

I have experimented with it on fine photoetch and had it eat right through the metal, essentially dissolving it. I haven't experimented with dilutions and super short exposures, but be careful before you chuck an expensive piece of PE into the stuff.

[FlowerPower]

I used this kind of stuff (not this brand, but it's the same for sure) to blacken white metal tracks and brass barrels.
Very nice for 1/35 and 1/48, but be very careful, it eats metal! I don't think it's a good idea to use it for 1/350 and smaller. and keep it away from PE for sure.

[KLJang]

I use blackening agents all the time (on period warship models form eyebolts, chains, chaimplates, etch parts). It is an acid that causes oxidation of metals and you can get solutions that will turn brass brown, black or green. Large bottles are easily found at jewellery supply stores.

When you use it, you must clean the brass. Photoetch should be cleaned in lacquer (cellulose) thinner to get off any grease or photo resist. Brass rod, barrels etc the same.

It takes a bit of practive to use and the hardness of the brass makes a difference. The usual method is to soak the parts in the solution until the desired colour is achieved. I have dipped it, brushed it on and have gotten good results. If you brush, you may have to keep brushing more on. As the metal is oxidized, it makes the solution weaker.

I have experimented with dilutions, and usually (the jewellery store stuff) is used as it comes out of the bottle. On some brass/copper depending on hardness, it can cause flaking of the metal and you are back to brigh brass. In this case, I dilute and let the colour develop slowly.

Rinse the part in water to stop the reactions, and wear gloves and eye protection. This method of colouring metals does not clog detail at all as the surace of the metal itself is coloured.

The jewellery store stuff is sold under the name "Jax" and is pretty cheap. The same solution is repacked and sold under various anmes such as "blacken it" and others for the model trade. I suggest go to the jewellery shop, get a bottle (much cheaper) and eperiment. You will have plenty to experiment with. The jewellery store folks will also give you advice if things don't work out.

Cheers,

kerry

[Peter Van Buren]

DON'T AIRBRUSH THIS STUFF.

It is an acid that attacks metal, so it will likely do bad things to the inside of your airbrush. Also, spraying and inhaling acid atomized is bad.

Wear eye protection when using it.

[Cadman]

Good tips, I will link this thread to that review.

[FreeTimeHobbies]

Hey guys.... I have never used anything like this before using the Model Master kind... but he told me when we first started stocking it that it was perfect for small destail PE.... so I have been using it on 1/700 PE since then.... here is a picture of the 1/700 chain, anchors, and whatever those other things are called from my Niko USS Norfolk.... it didn't eat that chain, and you about can't get smaller PE than that (picture is really zoomed)

So, I won't say that it will "not" eat PE, because I do understand how it works.... BUT I have had nothing but good results with it so far.

[Christian M.]

I still used such an agent too, which is available from several manufactures of wooden ship Modell aftermarket, but be aware ... this stuff is really toxic!

I used it particularly for blackening anchor chains which are mostly in brass ... or for brass PE parts in 1/35 Military when they must be only black and need no olive painting.

[M�LDERS]

Hi everyone,
I may also throw my two cents on the table. Actually its a bit more than two cents maybe, since I am the person
who has the honor and priveledge to supply Master Model with this product.
This product is also available from AK interactive in an 100ml version and I also do supply these gentlemen.
I run a little company called "Uschi van der Rosten" and those who are interested can find out a lil bit more about
me and Uschi by following this link: http://www.uschivdr.com

Burnishing agents are indeed available from other manufacturers and I tested a bunch of them during the product development process.
Thing is, that you never really now how they react. As said above, some deliver really funky colors
(not really what we are after) and some literally eat up the stuff as fast as a cop eatin� his donut.
So the idea was to develop a product which is perfectly balanced and does work well with photo etch parts AND soldering wire,
which may have been used as well during the assembling of PE parts.

Furthermore I think it can be said that one can save time and money by avoiding to be forced to run through several brands,
having the doubtful pleasure of experiencing the magic of disappearing PE and LSD-like color-flashs.
I think we have one solid and reliable product here which is tested, balanced and 100% controlable.
Another requirement was security and ecological compatibility. The product is classified as less toxic than fuel.
Wearing gloves is recommended, however I never did that and I still enjoy my flumsy fingers.

It doesn�t create problems, it solves problems, always, and at that is a key requirement that any Uschi product has to deliver.
I will never release a product that does not meet this criterions because I am a scale modeler myself and it
wouldnt match my personality.

Special Thanks to FreeTimeHobbies for the little demo.
I also may recommend a little video that my dear Friend Erik Roberson has made a while ago.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re6nQBsoHBM

Thanks for your attention, gentlemen!
Happy modeling!

[Jon]

Well, I'm sold now.