Anchor Chain for 1:200 MISSOURI kit

[BB62vet]

Does anyone know of anchor chain in 1:200 scale that is CORRECT for the MISSOURI kit? The kit supplied anchor chain is typical loop type chain and NOT the correct chain for this type of ship.

I've looked at various on-line chain makers, but nothing matches so far.

Thanks,

Hank

[JHS]

The Floating Drydock used to have correct large-scale naval chains. If it is still in operation, I'd give the site a look.

[Channell]

I just got some 3d printed plastic chain from Floating Drydock last week.

http://www.floatingdrydock.com/more.htm#CHAIN

PCM-C115 is very close to the correct size and looks great. You'll need 2 for the 'Mo as they aren't quite long enough for both chains. I have 2 more on backorder too, so apparently they are currently out of them. I can take some pics of them on the kit deck for you later tonight if you'd like...

[JHS]

Glad to know TFD is still around! Than you for the link.

[sirpaul]

Try one of those machines in front of stores. I have scored many from those quarter bubble machines. The ones that have chains.

[BB62vet]

Guys -

Thanks for the replys.

Jason - your pix would be welcome - just to see how they look on the deck.

I'll get an order into TFD!

Hank

[Channell]

Not the greatest picture in the world (I cannot get my camera to cooperate), but this should give you an idea on the scale, Hank:

[PATMAT]

Or just see the photos at TFDD:
http://floatingdrydock.com/more.htm#CHAIN

or the ones I've previously posted here, such as:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=42865#p594848






Back orders: I'm hand-carving the little links as fast as I can!

Size: Unfortunately, the process won't make links any smaller than the smallest shown here, with 0.6mm thick "wire".

[BB62vet]

Jason,

Thanks for the photo - I'll get my order in tomorrow (if I can get out - we're sort of snowed in here in NC).

Hank

[AllianceModelWorks]

why not use HO scale chains? they go to 42 links per inch. They aren't bar'ed like real anchor chains but it's really hard to tell.

[BB62vet]

AllianceMW -

I think you stated the obvious - "they aren't barred like the real anchor chain...".

Thanks for your reply!

Hank

[Timmy C]

The thing about most model chains is that their links are almost always round, instead of rectangular. I fixed this to some extent on my 350th Mikasa by pulling taut the chain and squeezing each link with a pair of pliers, but that can be time consuming (though not difficult) and, sadly, only emphasizes the lack of the bar in the middle of the link.

[PATMAT]

Another mess of chains going out the door... boy it's tough on the ol' eyes, hand carving all these links...


(Pat's real stud link anchor chain is sold by the Floating Drydock)

[Channell]

Yay! Some of those are mine!

Pat, you ought to hire some gnomes to help you carve chain links . They are gonna be very popular... especially if a way can be figured to do them at 1/350 scale.

[BB62vet]

If gnomes did the work would they be considered Anchor Trolls??

Hank

[Jeff Sharp]

Has anyone tried to use TFD's chain for the 1/200 Arizona kit? The number of links per inch seems still not enough to me but just wondering if anyone has tried it?
Thanks

[Channell]

Has anyone tried to use TFD's chain for the 1/200 Arizona kit? The number of links per inch seems still not enough to me but just wondering if anyone has tried it?
Thanks

They are gonna be slightly too big for 1/200 scale as they are 1/192 but the difference is not very noticiable in my opinion. I have another Arizona kit and a better camera ; I can get you some detail pics on the kit tonight if you'd like for comparision.

[Gaston]

Was the bar in the link universal to all ships, or just capital ships?

Were the chain links usually squarish rather than round, or is this just specific to some ships? It dawns on me ship chains usually seem to have a non-generic/non-"simple loop" look...

Gaston

[PATMAT]

Anchor Chain Facts

Anchor chain is very prominent on the foredecks of many ships, but especially so on battleships... it pays to get it right!

First and before the other thread gets lost, see my latest try at the correct sized chain for 1:200 BB's at:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=155715
>> This chain is built at 15 links per inch (LPI).


Fact 1:
Yes, all anchor chain is "stud link". I used to think the stud somehow added strength, but no, it's there to prevent chain kinking or tangling. This in turn assures free running through hawse pipes, chain pipes (down to the chain locker), and over the anchor windlass's "wildcat" (the sprocket-like drum that the chain runs over).

Fact 2:
Chain is sized by its "wire diameter" (the thickness of a wire bent into link form), even if the links are forged or assembled from forgings.
Anchor chain links have a fairly standard form, a somewhat longish oval, with overall length = 6x wire diameter.
Iowa class uses 3-1/2" chain, with individual links being 21" long.

Fact 3:
Pitch is 4x wire diameter, so 14" per link along the length of an assembled Iowa chain... or .070" per link in 1:200, or 14.28 links per inch (I settled on ~15 LPI for my model chain).

Fact 4:
Anchor chains are assembled from 15 fathom (90 foot) "shots", using special removable joiner links. You won't see the difference in the links in 1:200, but the joints are painted so that you can see how many shots have run out as the chain whizzes by.
At one shot: Joiner is red, with one white link either side.
At two shots, Joiner is white, + 2 white links either side.
At three shots, Joiner is blue, with 3 white links either side.
Etc.
Usually expect 10 shots in an anchor chain. The 2nd to last shot is painted all yellow... you see it whiz by, say "aw sh1t!". The last shot is painted all red. You see red whizzing by, "run or you're dead!"

Fact 5:
At the anchor end, a variable length "swivel shot" starts the chain. The swivel shot includes a swivel joint (just like in a fishing line), a couple special links for joining to the anchor's shackle, and some number of links to connect to the first full shot... probably determined by where someone wants the swivel to sit on the foredeck.
No color code that I'm aware of for this connection.

Fact 6:
On an Iowa, the swivel shot is long enough that it and the first shot only shows on deck, with anchor weighed.. so none of the colored coded joiners will show.
But Missouri in Tokyo Bay? It's usual to put out a lead of 7x water depth when anchoring. If the anchorage is 15 fathoms/90 feet, then 7 shots of chain should be out, and a color code may well be visible on deck.

Fact 7:
You don't count on the anchor windlass to hold your chain.
Most ships have some sort of chain stopper- a ratchet-like pawl to check the chain, somewhere on the foredeck. Additionally, the anchor and chain are secured with short lengths of chain attached to the deck... three or four per chain on an Iowa. These chains are hooked onto the anchor chain with "pelican hooks", and then snugged up to take the anchor's weight with turnbuckles and some BIG wrenches.
>>> I am looking into adding these pelican hooks to my 15 LPI 1:200 chains... more later!

[PATMAT]

Fact 8:
To "weigh anchor" is to lift it up (from the bottom). The anchor is aweigh just as you start to pick up its weight. And it's NOT "anchors away"!

Not actually sure what the correct term is for the state of an anchor hauled up in the hawse pipe and stowed for sea... stowed?