Anchor Chain for 1:200 MISSOURI kit

[BJohnson]

Pat,

Anchor secure (RN).

Regards

Bryan

[Gaston]

From what I see, the link's cross-bar is "moulded" thinner than the the main body of the link: This means that, from a distance, the appearance of the cross-bar is rather discrete.

The link's overall body also appears fairly rounded.

I think in 1/350 you can get by with just plain loop chain links... I can see the concern in 1/200 though...

One unrelated question I have is: I know the answer about cruisers and destroyers (ie: yes), but is the deck on battleships slightly curved in cross-section to prevent pooling water, like on the smaller ships? Is this curve proportionally as obvious as it is on some Japanese cruiser kits I have (like the Aoshima Kinu)?

Gaston

[Jeff Sharp]

Pat,
Awesome info and pics! Thanks for sharing! I need some of those 15 linked chain.
Jeff

[PATMAT]

Thanks, and I'm working on it!

Most images above were borrowed from the Web (sorry to the OP's!). Here's my own shot of Iowa's chain and chain stoppers as of last year.

[PATMAT]

More factoids:

An anchor chain dolly may be stowed somewhere on the foredeck. It would be used to lift the chain a bit to get the pelican hook under it.

A bit of rope may be handy when pulling the pelican home. In the BB shot below, line is left wrapped around the chain stopper's turnbuckle.

And again, a big wrench is used to snug up the turnbuckle before the load is let off the windlass.

[PATMAT]

Wikipedia says Missouri was anchored at 35� 21? 17? N 139� 45? 36? E in Tokyo Bay. Near as I can tell, it looks like 30m of water there, or about 16 fathoms (96 ft). So my example above is about right-- she should have about 7 shots of chain out, and you would see the 7-8 shot joint on deck, with 7 links either side of the joiner link painted white. The joiner itself may be color coded, in the order Red-White-Blue (repeating), or it could be white again.

Depending on where this joint is situated, you could see a neighboring joint too, anywhere from the water to the chain pipe.

And of course, any other diorama with a ship at anchor could show these color codes too.

[ESO]

Hello Pat!



That chain looks very good. Any chance the 15 links per inch version will be available for purchase?

I have a 1/200 Bismarck and Missouri that i need chains for. Can only see the bigger chanins on the floating drydock page.

Best regards,
Espen

[PATMAT]

I've posted here and elsewhere about my 3D Printed anchor chain. I have a new generation that is the best yet for a 1:200 BB (the sample in the background):




The sample I previously posted about is in the foreground. It achieved a fine pitch of 15 links per inch (LPI) by cheating-- I shrunk the links' length, while sticking with the printer's enforced minimum "wire diameter" of 0.6mm. The result was OK, but the links are overly chubby and close together... I wanted better.

Well, the printer has relaxed a bit and now allows me to print at 0.5mm wire diameter, though I have to accept the risk for any parts that don't print correctly. This in turn allows a smaller link, in width and length, while maintaining the correct aspect ratio-- this can be seen in the longer links and the open space in the links... much better!

Whaddya think?


Oh, and can anyone confirm for me the length required on a 1:200 Iowa class? I think it's about 7" from hawse pipe, around the windlass, and into the chain pipe... And how much more from hawse pipe to the waterline, for a waterline model at anchor?

TIA, PM

[kb466]

That looks great! When can we buy some?
Bill Moyers

[PATMAT]

Almost as soon as someone tells me what length is needed for an Iowa...


Actually, I have a very small amount on hand, more coming in the next couple weeks. I need that length to confirm the cut lengths and price per packet...

[kb466]

I can't help you on the length. I'm out of town away from my models for a few days. A couple of questions-- will this chain also work for the 1/200 USS Arizona?... Also, will you be selling this chain through Floating Drydock or direct? Thanks!
Bill Moyers

[PATMAT]

Arizona: I'm not sure! But I really can't print it any smaller, so this may have to do-- or use plain chain.

Is anyone here near Phoenix or Pearl Harbor? Az's anchors are display, and the one in Phoenix has some chain attached:
http://www.roadsideamerica.com/tip/11973



and Hawaii:




All I need is the "wire diameter" of a chain link to tell for sure... either measure the OD with a big caliper, or wrap a tape around and get the circumference.




Sales: Working on that point, stay tuned...

[Channell]

Almost as soon as someone tells me what length is needed for an Iowa...


Actually, I have a very small amount on hand, more coming in the next couple weeks. I need that length to confirm the cut lengths and price per packet...

I'd say a 13-14" length of chain would about cover it.



Definitely on my "must have" list... the other stuff is great but that looks flat out amazing!

[Fliger747]

Might be nice to have an extra inch or two for a 1:192 builder. Glad to see that the 3d printing is getting better!

Cheers. Tom

[PATMAT]

WHERE'S THE CHAIN?

I still working on it... more development than I expected!

My first two samples were great... so I bought in a bunch more, and disaster. I'm printing at sizes below Shapeway's limits, and with part to part clearances less than what they normally allow. I can only buy it this way by accepting all risk- no returns, no re-do's.

So now I'm getting a lot of links fused together. These have to be broken apart, and half the time the links actually break. And there's no repair link in this size! So I'm getting very low yield of usable lengths, and spending A LOT of time on a piece of chain I want to sell for around five bucks. I do have a small amount of salable chain now though, and will put it on ebay this weekend (sorry, I don't have any e-commerce site established).

But one big improvement-- I found that the chain is greatly improved by tumbling in fine deburr media. It knocks off most of the layering... nice but not critical, as you can't see it anyway... but it also removes the last traces of support wax from the printing process, so you won't need to wash the chain before painting it with acrylic.
More soon...


Photos below are of the 1:200 BB chain- 500 micron "wire diameter", about the same as a sewing pin!

Raw chain, with visible layering and leftover support wax.





After first tumble... smoother, needs a little more to get rid of the last bit of wax.

[PATMAT]

Nobody in Phoenix or Honolulu wants to run out and measure some Arizona chain??

[kb466]

Well, I have to say it looks great from your pictures. I hope you can work out the bugs. I want some for both my Missouri and my Arizona kit.
Bill M.

[BB62vet]

Patman -

Is your chain paintable with enamels?

Hank

[PATMAT]

OK, I've listed a bunch of chain on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 1157834747

Only for the next 5 days, then I'm off on vacation for a couple weeks and won't be able to ship. Will get back to it after that.


BB62vet: Please use water based acrylic paint only on this material; oil based enamels don't like to cure on it.

[Akula]

Mine arrived today. Simply beautiful!!! 13.5 LPI is great


Bob