BB62vet wrote:Pat,
Ok, here are a few pix of the Trumpeter 1:200 MISSOURI anchor parts:
Anchor_2 (Large).JPG
Hope this helps, Hank
Perfect, thanks! It's good to see that the anchor's shackle is included as a loose part. It probably needs to be reduced a bit to fit the bending shackle on the end of my swivel shot (above).
Just read your article in NRJ regarding 3D Printing - Cudos! Very timely and right on target. I learned quite a bit from that good piece of journalism.
Thanks,
Hank
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69
Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48
Note: Printed part quality from my supplier varies, and there seems to be little I can do about it. And I'm afraid I can't clean it all up myself, so I'm leaving more of this task to you, though I wish it weren't so!
You may find that some chain links have a bit of "flash" on them that prevents free movement. A touch with a sanding board/nail file will clean these up easily.
Pelican hooks are part of the chain stopper assembly. And I have the little buggers, but haven't convinced myself yet that they're practical for cleaning and for assembly by modelers... but what do I know?
OK, I'm thinking out loud here - I'll toss this "thought grenade" into the mix - not completely off-topic, but...
With a lot of mini-tools and such on the market today, I'm wondering if there wouldn't be a way to make a mini-sandblaster for extra-small items such as this? Something along the lines of a hand-held, pencil-like tool with a very fine opening that would shoot the extra-fine "sand" onto your material to smooth it. A table-mtd. fan/blower/media tank with flex. tubing to the tool - the "sand" could be some form of currently available extra-finely ground abrasive. Used in conjuction with a box to contain the powder, this might solve the clean-up issue with these parts. The blower/pump would have to be calculated with the size of the opening to produce a good, powerful "blast" in order to do the job. Oh, and the tool can't cost more than $49.99
Comments.....?
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69
Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48
There ARE actually several "mini" sand blasters on the market - one, Badger Air-Brush Co. 260-3 Abrasive Gun with Propel is $50.75 @ Amazon and looks like it might work for an application such as this. It uses aluminum oxide as the "sand" and includes mask. Amazon also sells the Badger Mini-Sandblasting Kit for $47.59 ( thru Blick Art Material) - which appears to be the same unit.
There are a few others, less/more expensive so, I guess this idea isn't THAT far-fetched
Last edited by BB62vet on Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69
Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48
Sure- look up the Paasche "Air Eraser", a grit blaster that looks like an airbrush. You might find a used one in that price range. I have seen reports that it works well with baking soda as a mild and very fine abrasive... though my brief trial with it resulted in lots of clogging and so-so results.
I am now working with other methods, such as vibratory and tumble cleaners with various media. And keep in mind that there are three types of clean up required:
1. Remove the goopy process waxes... about the consistency of bacon grease;
2. Knock down the surface roughness, or "stair-stepping", inherent to these additive process;
3. Remove material that looks like molding flash, but which is actually excess material resulting from print heads sorely in need of maintenance.
And for reasons not clear to me: If you use solvents to clean off the wax, a hard chalky residue develops on the surface, which is resistant to the most aggressive cleaning methods (but which is safe base for painting).
Looks like you're covering all the bases on this - from what you've described, the residue seems to be a chem. reaction of the solvents with the plastic.
HMS III
Mocksville, NC
BB62 vet 68-69
Builder's yard:
USS STODDARD (DD-566) 66-68 1:144, Various Lg Scale FC Directors Finished:
USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) 67-69 1:200
USN Sloop/Ship PEACOCK (1813) 1:48
ROYAL CAROLINE (1748) 1:47
AVS (1768) 1:48
Avoid Aluminum oxide at all costs. The paper mask in included is useless. Inhalation of Aluminum oxide can cause Silicosis ( cement in your lungs )
Use a cartridge type paint mask.
Harbor Freight has a Paasche air eraser clone for around $25. But it has Aluminum Oxided included. It is 220 grit and will etch glass and destroy 3D printed parts. I know.. I tried it and the Oxide ate up the part.
The harbor freight clone has a .020" orifice and the paasch 1 quart kit is .035". It is designed for more aggressive grit. I spoke to passch about this.
The clogging Pat mentioned is remedied by sifting the baking powder through a metal mesh coffee filter. It gets the chunks out. Besides... baking powder is really cheap at the grocery store.
I have experimented with this baking powder on Pat's 13.5 LPI chain and it worked beautifully. I did make a screen holder so I could lay down the chain and blast away. I cut a small mailing tube in half, lengthwise, and hot glued a piece of plastic door screen so that it sags a little and it provides great results. The parts get cleaned and the screen supports it.
The smallest one they sell would convert to 25 inches long in 1:200, making them about 140% the size of those on Iowa class.
Dollar bill is 6 inches, in that form let's call it 5, the chainlink looked to be about 18 inches long
Channell wrote:I just got some 3d printed plastic chain from Floating Drydock last week.
PCM-C115 is very close to the correct size and looks great. You'll need 2 for the 'Mo as they aren't quite long enough for both chains. I have 2 more on backorder too, so apparently they are currently out of them. I can take some pics of them on the kit deck for you later tonight if you'd like...
