display cases

[marijn van gils]

Hello everyone,

In the near future, I will build my first glass case, but I'm now in the process of figuring out which materials and techniques to use.

I found two very helpful posts on this forum:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=102323&hilit=display
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=115471&hilit=cases

Are there any more?

Does anyone want to share any ideas or opinions about the pro's and con's of different materials?

Thanks,

Marijn

[biggles2]

I read Bob Wilson's method from Jim Baumann for making plexiglass cases. Not too difficult with a minimum of specialized tools necessary. But when inserting the finished model on it's base, do you just have to drop it in from the top and let it slide down by itself? What if the interior base becomes jammed at an angle while sliding down? Is it possible to remove the interior base and model at all after? Or is it, once it's sealed, it's sealed for good?

[marijn van gils]

If I read it correctly, the case with outer base (frame) is a flush fit over the inner base. hence, you can at any time remove the case and outer base by lifting them off the inner base and model.

I found it a very neat and beautifull display style, perfect for relatively small scales.
But I'm still wondering how Plexiglass compares to glass regarding visibility of the model. And when using glass, are there types of glass to look for or to avoid?

[biggles2]

This pic: download/file.php?id=48602&mode=view shows the green felt covering the entire bottom of the exterior base; and when the plexiglass is also screwed to the base, wouldn't that make the case really sealed? Unless the felt base section is not permanently attached to the case? Maybe not screwing the plexi to the base would make the interior accessible. Nevertheless, a very attractive case, and not too difficult to make.

[marijn van gils]

Somehow, I assumed he attaches the green felt base to the bottom of the inner base, so the outer frame and case can sit on it without a need for glue or screws. It just made sense to me, as this way you can open it easily but also easily pick it up as one piece.

But now I see this is not actually written in his SBS. Actually, I cannot see whether the felt base is attached to anything, or how?

Cheers,

Marijn

[biggles2]

I can just see myself building one, following the steps faithfully and having a perfect case, then realizing, "Hey! I can't get my model in it!".

[biggles2]

I think what I was missing is that in the final step, when the glass part is unscrewed from the case for finishing the base, it is not re-screwed to allow access to the interior(which is good!) . I also suppose that the inner base (with the water and model) should be just slightly smaller (1/2 mm all around) than the interior dimensions of the plexiglass to prevent it from sticking from expansions, etc.

[biggles2]

But I'm still wondering how Plexiglass compares to glass regarding visibility of the model. And when using glass, are there types of glass to look for or to avoid?

Real glass will remain clearer over a long period of time than plexiglass, but is, of course, more breakable. I would suppose tempered glass is preferable, but you would have to buy it pre-cut. Maybe if it's not a big case, you could use ordinary window glass. (But will contact cement bond glass?)

[JIM BAUMANN]

just spotted this thread (! )

herewith my contribution

I think real glass has superior and longer lived optical qualities than acrylic or plexiglass equivalents

I use toughened glass for my big wall cases--bit individual small cases are plain glass--I simply exercise a lot of care when transporting models

I have never had one break--and I have about 80 of these cases (! )


enclosed a few images of the cases that I have made for all my models

Note the glass is inserted into a routered wood " extrusion " with channels for the glass sheets

and the glass case fits over the raised model ' bed'

that way they are almost hermetically sealed and no dust. spiders or similar can enter
it also prevent the lids lids accidentally slipping off and damaging the model

Hope it is instructive

regards

JB

[Shipbuilder]

I had forgotten that my instructions for building a case were already here, but I can see them above. The top is left off the case in the early stages so I can cut the base to the exact size. I stand the open-topped case on a large piece of blockboard or chipboard and draw round the inside with a pencil. This is then cut out and should be a perfect fit inside the case. The splayed mounding is cut to fit round this, working through the open top. Once the edged base is complete, the top of the case can be glued on. I do not drop the model down the open top! The case can be placed over it. The model is fixed in the case by six small screws that go upwards through the edge of the green felt base into the wood moulding. In that way, the case can be opened again later, if required. Probably not airtight, but models I built 30 years or more ago are still OK.
Bob

[marijn van gils]

Many thanks Jim and Bob!

[ardon2]

Jim, what type of wood are you using for your "extrusions"?

[JIM BAUMANN]

>>>Jim, what type of wood are you using for your "extrusions"? <<<

Re-phrase...

My casemaker man... uses Mahogany...( straight grain hardwood)

example of a diorama model in its 14 inch ( 35.5 cm ) length case
( Hog Islander ) http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... eview.html

[EJFoeth]

I went for completely glassy all over. I did not make the cap myself though (carpenter/modeler built it for me). I like the openness and airiness. Simple glass and kit can you clean easily. Really necessary against dust and modeling shows.