Model Monkey USS Portland CA-33 Superstructure

[MatthewB]

Its not too bad. I mainly studied what photos I could find on the internet as well as the Portland/Indy Pictorial book, made some marks with a sharpie, and then consulted my sources again. That I slow cut with an xacto knife. You can do something more or less like this

Can I ask how the wooden decking on the parts looks? Did it turn out OK?

Could we please get a shot of the Decking.... Please???!!!???


And.....

Not trying to be a Smarty-pants or anything, but I do have one question regarding why you chose to cut back the forecastle to extend the well-deck forward the way you did.

The question concerns those curved sections of the hull that sweep down from the forecastle to the well-deck:

��Why did you not just cut off those curved sections, since they are symmetric and evenly curved (hard to do without a cutting jig), AND the plastic tapers toward their ends so that they are thinner at the edges than is the hull where you have cut it (leading to a more scale-effect in the thickness of the hull)?

Since it is also easier to cut square corners than it is to cut curves, and since it is easier to fill and smooth the joint when gluing back on the curved sections, I would think that would produce a better looking finish to the forecastle.

Just thinking that when I go to cut back my Forecastle, that is what I had planned to do, so that both sides would look the same (I'm really OCD, though).

��Also What did the portholes near the Well-deck on the Portland look like? Were they the same as on the Indianapolis?

� For that matter, what about ALL of the portholes on the Portland vs the Indianapolis?

...............

But you are much further along than am I, who has not even got to starting my Indianapolis-to-Portland conversion.

And.... I am much relieved to learn that I do not need to buy another catapult, as I will be replacing the Catapult with PE as it is, and I have plenty of USN CA Catapults (I think I have four sets of Tom's USN CA frets, and three or four of the GMM CA sets - the GMM sets I REALLY like, because they are steel, and not brass, making the parts harder to shape, but vastly more resistant to damage).

But, the parts look beautiful.

MB

[JTninja]

To be clear, those were not the parts that Steve makes. Those pictures are from a couple years ago, with all scratch built pieces for my '44 Portland. I was just posting to show what would need to be cut out and replaced with Steves parts.

I felt it was easier for me to curve the hull than cut it and then attach another piece. Took some sanding to it to make it smooth, photo'd one side to use as reference to the other, and both look nearly identical.

[ModelMonkey]

The design for the aircraft handling deck is taking longer than expected, now at about 75%, but looking good.

For those familiar with sistership USS Indianapolis, you can see from the images below that Portland's aircraft handling deck is considerably different.

The designed deck itself is planked, properly cambered (arched) and with shear (sloped upward toward the bow). The complexity of the planked deck is the reason for slower-than-expected progress, but getting it right is important. It is being constantly checked against available photos.

It is being designed intentionally slightly wider than actual so that the edges of the deck can be gently sanded/trimmed by the modeler to fit any USS Indianapolis kit.

Since Portland's funnel is taller than Indy's and has a different top, an accurately scaled and shaped funnel is included in the design.

Here's a teaser shot to show you how it looks so far, properly positioned with the forward superstructure (which already is available separately in 1/700 and 1/350). There is much more work to be done on this design and further adjustment of what you see here. Your patience is appreciated!

[Jeff Sharp]

Awesome Steve! I've been meaning to ask you if a pre war superstructure is in the works?

[ModelMonkey]

Awesome Steve! I've been meaning to ask you if a pre war superstructure is in the works?

Thanks so much, Jeff!

No, I'm afraid there will be no pre-war version.

[ModelMonkey]

The design for the aircraft handling deck is complete and the design has been uploaded to Shapeways. It is available in 1/350 scale and 1/700 scale.

Link (just click on the scale you are interested in on the left side of the screen):
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/model_monkey

Here's a rendering and how my software "sees" the design positioned with the forward superstructure:

[MatthewB]

Awesome, Awesome....

Waiting for aft superstructure, and then BUY!.

It seems to me that in a few years, when CLiP Printing (and the new Australian Method I just read about recently) becomes the norm (IF it scales to manufacturing), then the 1/700 model industry will be getting parts that rival those of 1/350, and without the need for PE.

They have a means of using the CLiP printing in metal, so that you can get brass stack piping, or bulkhead details (like that rain-guard that runs around the forward deckhouse).

And best of all:

The CLiP method needs to have no supporting structures for overhangs. It prints a part, whole, intact, and without the need for extraneous parts to be cut away later.

I can just picture a 1942 1/700 USS San Francisco with a working hanger door. But I would settle for just having the hull made such that the hull, superstructure, and splinter-shielding were all one piece, that did not need to be aligned, or seams filled to finish the model.

This Portland looks really good.

Now watch Trumpeter or Dragon come out with a 1/700 Early-war Portland and Indianapolis.

MB

[ModelMonkey]

Thanks, Matt!

Here are a couple more views of the design.

As an aid to deck placement and the modeler's efforts shortening the Indianapolis kit's main deck above, the location of the extent of the main deck is marked in recess on the part. The aircraft handling deck's camber (arch) is visible in this view as is the planking.

Frank Fowler reports that the 3D-printed planking of the forward superstructure printed very well. It is so fine in 1/700 scale that thick paint may cover it.

The double hatch includes scuttle, hinge and dog detail. The aft bulkhead includes a bell (bell-shaped electrical fan?), electrical box, and small locker that appear in photos.

[MatthewB]

I may order a part just to have a look at the hatch details.

I tend to prefer PE, because they give a harder-line to the straight-edge details such as hatches. But 3D Printing can give a pretty decent edge as well if the print layers are aligned correctly.

Otherwise, is it possible that you will do a version of this without the outer-hatch details (just leaving the coaming for the hatch(es) and a flat surface on which to place the hatch facing, or an opening so that we can model the hatch as open)?

You mentioned you were going to provide a forward superstructure without hatches (blank spots or openings).

So I hope that the same option will be available for the rest of the ship's conversion kit, please.

MB

[ModelMonkey]

Thanks, Matt!

1/700 scale is ready now.

....Otherwise, is it possible that you will do a version of this without the outer-hatch details (just leaving the coaming for the hatch(es) and a flat surface on which to place the hatch facing, or an opening so that we can model the hatch as open)?

Let's see how this version's sales do. If sales are weak, I will have to move on to other subjects.

You mentioned you were going to provide a forward superstructure without hatches (blank spots or openings)...So I hope that the same option will be available for the rest of the ship's conversion kit, please.

MB

I'd still like to do that as part of a "Version 2.0", for those modelers prefer open hatches and PE doors. I did that with Saratoga and Lexington. The requester for this project specified accurate-style, closed A/T doors for version 1.0.

Here's a photo of the underside of such a hatch on Portland:

[Dan K]

I can't believe you opted out of the mop rack. My world is crushed.

[garyrunnalls]

WHAT!!!!!! No mop rack? Oh boy, I too was banking on 3-D mop racks in 1/700 and 1/2400 scale (tired of scratch building them) but no, stuff looks amazing. I need to check to see if you have 3-D IJN AA guns.

[ModelMonkey]

I can't believe you opted out of the mop rack. My world is crushed.

WHAT!!!!!! No mop rack? Oh boy, I too was banking on 3-D mop racks in 1/700 and 1/2400 scale (tired of scratch building them) but no, stuff looks amazing. I need to check to see if you have 3-D IJN AA guns.

Unfortuantely, the 2D design manual for "Rack, Mop, USN-type, Deck-mounted, with Mop Handle Slots and Holes" is lost to history.

While I don't have any IJN AA guns designed, 3DModelparts.com might and certainly resin manufacturers have good ones out now.

I would like to design some good Yamato/Musashi 6" turrets for those who would like to do a back-dated 1941 Yamato/Musashi and need the wing turrets for the conversion.

Any need or desire for Haruna 14" turrets?

Now, back to my oars to continue to row. Portland's aft superstructure beckons.

[MatthewB]

I can't believe you opted out of the mop rack. My world is crushed.

WHAT!!!!!! No mop rack? Oh boy, I too was banking on 3-D mop racks in 1/700 and 1/2400 scale (tired of scratch building them) but no, stuff looks amazing. I need to check to see if you have 3-D IJN AA guns.

Unfortuantely, the 2D design manual for "Rack, Mop, USN-type, Deck-mounted, with Mop Handle Slots and Holes" is lost to history.

While I don't have any IJN AA guns designed, 3DModelparts.com might and certainly resin manufacturers have good ones out now.

I would like to design some good Yamato/Musashi 6" turrets for those who would like to do a back-dated 1941 Yamato/Musashi and need the wing turrets for the conversion.

Any need or desire for Haruna 14" turrets?

I will be designing DKM 15" twins in 2016 for those who want to do a "never-completed" Gneisenau 1944 conversion in 1/700, 1/400 and 1/350. Can't do the lengthened bow, however. Present Shapeways printing technology can't print the knife-edge stem. Scratch-builders and resin manufacturers, that one's on you.

Now, back to my oars to continue to row. Portland's aft superstructure beckons.

I can't recall his name, but there is another member here who has done some excellent IJN AA guns (in 1/700).

MB

[Elvis965]

Shelf Oddity is the group doing the IJN AA guns:

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=160836

Bob

[ModelMonkey]

An independent review of the forward superstructure in 1/350 can be found here:
viewtopic.php?f=85&t=161209

[MatthewB]

I wish people would quit showing JUST the 3D printed structure, and not the part after it has been primed.

Due to the nature of the UFD/SFD medium, the translucence hides a lot of detail and surface features.

With a primed part (especially in a grey primer), the surface details will show up better.

In the gaming miniature industry, it is an accepted standard to show both the 3D printed part (as shipped, and cleaned and prepped for primer - so two photos), alongside a primed version (and if possible, a fully finished version, without any modification or additions).

This gives people an idea of:

� What they will get when they open the package.
� What to expect when they get it cleaned.
� What it should look like when primed, showing all surface details that should be present.
� What can be expected given a decent finish by a skilled modeler/painter (with miniatures, the emphasis is on the painting itself, and not much else. The gaming miniature industry is only in the last few years beginning to borrow the arts and techniques of the scale modeler).

Doing this also shows to increase sales.

The Miniature Gaming industry is currently experiencing an explosion of 3D printed models and accessories (and beginning to see their first PE detail kits), but in the explosion of Kickstarter campaigns (crowd funding to raise the money to create a model or kit*) they have noticed that having the above mentioned series of photos increases the contributions to the Kickstarter, and post-Kickstarter sales of the items.

Speaking of PE.... Might you need a dedicated PE set for the Early-War Portland?

If the Nagara set I have done works out, I plan to do other sets for other ships that have been neglected.

And the Early-War Cruisers are one of those sets that have been neglected (along with kits for them). CA makes an excellent Northampton-class Cruiser, with some PE, but it still lacks a dedicated set. And if CA (or I) gets around to doing a Pensacola-class (a Pensacola and Salt Lake City), then it too will need PE. And since all of the Treaty Cruisers have much in common, getting sets created for all of them would not be a terrifically difficult job, once one set was finished.

I just hope that the Portland Conversion kit is finished before I get my SoDak conversion kit finished, so that I can build it while waiting to finish the SoDak.

MB


* People who donate to the Kickstarter Campaign get "rewards" for their contributions which can range from one or more of the finished products, to special items created solely for the larger backers of the Kickstarter Campaign (for instance, with the Portland, you could include something like a set of 3D printed bridge crew as a bonus item for only those who contributed more than $50 to the campaign - in addition to the completed kit).

[ModelMonkey]

* People who donate to the Kickstarter Campaign get "rewards" for their contributions which can range from one or more of the finished products, to special items created solely for the larger backers of the Kickstarter Campaign (for instance, with the Portland, you could include something like a set of 3D printed bridge crew as a bonus item for only those who contributed more than $50 to the campaign - in addition to the completed kit).

Interesting, but this would only work if I was the printer. But as the designer, I don't actually have any product in hand so I can't send anybody anything, discounted, samples, or otherwise. Shapeways is the printer. I just design the products, send the designs to Shapeways, and do my best to advertise them. I am not a Shapeways employee or contractor. I get a small fee per item printed, typically 10% of the sale, paid to me once per month. If I want one of my own, designed products, I order from Shapeways just like you do. I pay Shapeways what you pay, minus my design fee.

A dedicated PE set would be GREAT.

[Aekold]

CA makes an excellent Northampton-class Cruiser, with some PE, but it still lacks a dedicated set.

There is a dedicated set from Tom's + the CA/CL/DD set from Gold Medal has quite a lot unique Northampton features.
I don't think there is a huge market opportunity for a PE set for resin kits on non-popular ships, moreover, when SOME sets exist.

[MatthewB]

I have a couple of the Tom's and a couple of the GMM Cruiser frets.

They are not what I would call a "dedicated set of PE" for a given model.

They do contain the parts for things like cranes, or aircraft catapults, and radar.

But they lack specific ladders, hatches, railings, and other accoutrements that are made specifically for a given kit, so that you have things like your railing stanchions lining up at the correct places (such as at the corners of a deck). And they make no distinctive railings between the lower deck, and the upper superstructure (which I have learned was different on many ships).

They also lack handrails for the stacks of many ships (I know they include them for one, but I can't remember which model they fit).

Just having a dedicated railing and ladders set would be a huge addition to the generic parts available from Tom's or GMM. Some people might be surprised the difference it makes to have the stanchions on the railings in the right places (so that you don't have unsupported hanging railing traveling around a corner).

MB