1/200 Scale Group Build from 2015-17

[tegunn]

I also locked the tissue after forming and drying with CA glue, not super saturated. Let dry and paint.

[Fliger747]

I have used a fine spray bottle to moisten tissue, an airbrush would also work at low pressure.

[Fliger747]

The Alaska book is helping quite a bit, there enough closeup photos that I haven't seen before to help add quite a bit of detail. For instance a closeup of the bridge area shows a pelorous located right at the front of the open bridge at the 08 level. Easy enough to turn from brass and install. I did find a photo showing the paravanes on deck which helps in their proper placement. Not quite as easy as simply placing the part in a molded receiving hole in the deck as on a kit. But then I don't have to worry about confirming accuracy. Lozza small stuff to add!

Cheers: T

[tegunn]

....... Not quite as easy as simply placing the part in a molded receiving hole in the deck as on a kit. But then I don't have to worry about confirming accuracy. Lozza small stuff to add!

Cheers: T

The things people don't realize about scratch-building until they do it! Build it with the best info you have on hand. You're doing a great job. I had to take a break from a scratch-built Japanese cruiser, and now that more info is coming out, I will dust it off someday soon perhaps after some other projected subjects are done...
Randy

[Fliger747]

A Japanese Cruiser could be quite a challenge with all the sweeping curved lines and parts. What I find amazing was how I was able as a youth (anyone under 45) to see and assemble small items without a magnifier. No longer!

The quality of the kits and all the accessories available today make most scratch building seem a bit crude today!

Christmas Greetings to all!

[cchataway]

Hey everyone, I am finishing up the 1/200 USS Missouri 1945 edition and would like to post some pictures but not sure how to go about it on this forum, so hopefully I might be able to get some guidance as to the procedure. Thanks in advance. Carl

[Fliger747]

Photos

To directly post the photo must be less than 600 pixels on the longest side, a jpg, and less than 200kb.

Look below the posting box and you will see an area to upload, browse, add the file then place inline steps.

God luck! Tom

[Timmy C]

The longest side can be up to 1200 px, actually, though it'd be a challenge to get 1200px while falling under the 200kb limit.

See here for a more lengthy set of instructions: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=1261

[cchataway]

My first 200 scale build, had to use my wife's office hince the pink skirt around the drafting table.

[Fliger747]

Nice clean work! Note that in 1945 there was a vertical ladder between the 02-03 levels below the bridge wings, which after the war was replaced by an inclined ladder, in that recess behind the 51-52 mounts.

Keep up the good work! T

[cchataway]

747, thanks for the info and encouragement! I've been toying with this model for about 3� months, my video production company keeps me pretty busy, 33 weddings in 28 foreign countries this year 2015.
I googled the Missouri for the ribbons the ship had earned during WW2, saved them to the desktop, printed and reduced to what I felt was the appropriate size, cut them out and glued them on, I think proportionately they are the correct size.

Again, thank you for the guidance you afforded me on this build.

Respectfully,
Carl

[Fliger747]

Couple of photos of CB1 in 1:192 as of today. The "paint job" is hand mixed Golden Acrylics, matched to Snyder & Shorts color chips. Measure 22.

[cchataway]

Fliger 747, I had built the 350 scale Enterprise carrier, New Jersey, Missouri and Titanic, the Titanic is the only ship I had a plexiglass display case made for and DUST ruined the other three to where they had to be put in the trash. Do you put all your completed models in display cases? I found a master woodworker here in San Antonio who will build the base for my BB63 when done and I'm contemplating doing the plexiglass cover my self, do you build your own cases?

Carl

[Fliger747]

Carl

Yes dust can ruin models! I build furniture on occasion and do have an extensive shop so cases are on the order of business. What I call roundtuit basis. Biggest issue here is getting appropriate sized plexi due to the shipping. For my 1:192 Missouri the base will be simulated scale keel blocks. Alaska will require figuring out how to make convincing water! A case can be a big expense!

Cheers. Tom

[Mgunns]

About a month ago I was at Chuck Bauer's house viewing his extensive collection of ships he has displayed on a table. They were all dust free. I asked how he keeps the dust off them and looking so nice. He uses the thin filmed dry cleaner bags. He gently lays it on the model wherein it is light enough to not do any damage but keeps the dust off. For smaller models he uses the thin plastic bags that newspapers come in. Works like a charm. If you want to scope out your work or show your work, you just pull them off. I work at a Harley Shop part time and they have a contract with a launderer for shirts and trousers who come in and exchange uniforms for the staff. I collect the thin bags the shirts come in and use them for my own. Works great!

[Fliger747]

An interesting idea about the bags. I expect that the small items decorating my mastheads such as radars might not survive this, but I will give it a whirl. Missouri has been sitting there almost done since I got involved with Alaska again. A good possible interim solution, though I had though of building a lightweight frame draped with light clear plastic as a under construction solution. Alaska had sat for 20 years, but was covered with thick dust. Fortunately she was at a minimum detail level then and could be scrubbed clean! No longer!

Mmmm Weddings, pretty high stress photography as do overs are unlikely and crowd control, bad weather and all sorts of other things can happen. Then people have an idea of what they look like and not happy with the lies put forth by the lens.

Cheers: T

[tegunn]

Carl, weigh the time and cost against if you want a broken model. The case not only shields the dust, but also protects it from breakage. After spending a year+ on a model, IMHO it warrants a case. Plus, if someone falls in love with the model and wants to buy it, a case adds a lot to the deal....Mark (Mgunns) shared this casemaker with me. http://www.grandpascabinets.com/
I've built my own cases but his work looks appealing...
Randy

[tegunn]

Okay everyone time for an IPR. I have been working on the Arizona model when I can. I had to break away and work on the base for the model. She will be at sea underway. There was a lot of small item/subassemblies I had to do while focusing overall on the main superstructure. It is now basically finished sans some small touch-ups, etc. I must say I recommend photographing your model before declaring it done. It reveals so many errors one misses! Anyway focus on the superstructure went pretty well, most time spent on the signal bridge. I threw some facsimiles of flags in the flag bag and draped a tarp off the back side. The other one I covered even though while underway both would be uncovered. At this point I'm fitting the tripod masts before going in and detailing them further. I'm working up from the hull and form the inside outward; rigging what I can so I don't have to work over the model as much. The took the pictures outside with a slight overcast to see how they came out. My shop is fine for lighting, but it's mostly from above which casts shadows on an already dark paint scheme. The blue tape is just a cover until I get the funnel(which is completed) installed, which will come after the forward tripod mast is installed. This keeps parts from falling down into the model. I still have to do the mod that Jeff has pointed out regarding the port secondary chain plated removal (see his thread under WiP-Arizona Finally). The plates is ripped up waiting to be re-decked. The turrets are placed, not yet cemented down. What a happy day when they are!

[tegunn]

more pics

[Fliger747]

You might potentially consider attaching the turrets with magnets, allows them to turn and be removed, but is very secure.

Could you elaborate on how you did the flags in the bags?

Cheers. T