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 Post subject: Applying wooden decks
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 10:34 am 
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Location: Dartmouth, United Kingdom
I am in process of building KGV. I have available the wooden decking and it will be the first time that I will be using it. Is there a video around which I could watch to give me some idea of how best to apply?

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PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2016 6:38 pm 
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I don't know any videos, but it is helpful to run a fresh blade along the cut line (the darkest of the outlines) for easier and cleaner removal. Carefully pick out all those pesky little bits with the point of your blade and fine tweezers. Sometimes plank areas are joined by a very thin strip around structures. If the decking breaks at these points during removal, all is not lost. The broken bits can be applied after the larger parts. I paint (airbrush) the entire deck the color of the visible structures. That way, all the visible structures, bollards, hatches, etc. are already painted when the wood deck is applied. Also, I find the wood deck will adhere better to a matte surface. When applying the deck, align the larger cutouts with the corresponding structures on the model before pressing down. Once the deck is pressed down it is VERY difficult to impossible to remove it to re-align. I use a small burnisher (dollar stores have excellent ones in arts/crafts aisle) to rub down the wood deck around the raised details to remove bumps or bubbles - just don't apply too much pressure as it will dent, or bruise, the wood. I've rarely had a wood deck lift (I like Artwox), but if it does, just apply a bit of CA on a needle tip under the wood and press down. It may seem tedious picking out all the little rectangles, squares, and circles, but you will be rewarded with a very realistic-looking deck. Enjoy! :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 4:17 am 
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Thank you very much - that is very helpful. Doing anything for the first time is always stressful so I will make sure that I am in the mood to tackle it. That said, if you do a few relatively easily and they look good, I would not want to become complacent - that`s when things go horribly wrong.

Once again, many thanks.

Stephen

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 4:43 am 
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Stephen, thanks for posting your question. By coincidence I am about to attempt my first wooden deck on the Trumpeter U.S.S. San Francisco. The information you obtained will be very helpful to me in my efforts and I just wanted to drop of word of thanks for the unintentional helping hand. Hope some day I can return the favor.

Bob M.

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 2:31 pm 
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Bob

I am delighted of course that the response to my question is helping you as much as it is helping me. Thank you for taking the time to post your thoughts. I am sure we will come across each other from time to time,

Best wishes
Stephen

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PostPosted: Sat May 14, 2016 8:56 pm 
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Airman, I look forward to reading your future posts. I'm very fortunate to have made some very good friends on this forum over the years.

Bob M.

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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:27 am 
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Once you've done a few, you'll realize a few things. Firstly, that they look amazing. Secondly, they force you to be precise in your construction habits. If a sub assembly isn't true or square, your wood deck won't fit!

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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 10:55 am 
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A couple things I have learned using wood decks,

1)Make sure the deck is clean..something we all should already be doing...and keep it dust free until you are ready to apply the deck

2)If it has raised instead of engraved planking (depending on the kit)you may want to sand it down a bit and then gloss coat it to aid the adhesive backing and avoid air pockets.

3)..if you do any mods, conversions or "scatch-building" the deck more than likely will not fit as it is.

4) cut out the deck and leave the clear backing on it for now..test fit to be sure all holes and cutouts for turrets and super structure and deck parts line up , trimming may be needed.


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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 5:38 pm 
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No need to panic! I am new to 'modern' modelling with additions like photo-etch, self-adhesive wooden decks, using superglue (CA) and PVA (White glue) etc.

The main lesson I have learnt is to browse this forum, the accumulated knowledge and experience available is phenomenal and if you need to know anything, someone will know the answer, and will freely and willingly pass on that advice.

I used an Artwox set on a Bismarck build and I found the process to be relatively easy. I obviously made a slight mistake as a small area started to lift so I found the answer on here as -
Quote:
I've rarely had a wood deck lift (I like Artwox), but if it does, just apply a bit of CA on a needle tip under the wood and press down


I approached the fitting a little apprehensively I think, be confident in your skills!

However, after fitting that first deck and about to lay the keel on another build, I have a question -
Quote:
Carefully pick out all those pesky little bits with the point of your blade and fine tweezers

If you are using a photo-etch detail kit which replaces the majority of the deck fittings and requires their removal from the deck moulding, is it feasible to leave the "pesky little bits" in place, and attach the PE replacements to the wooden deck directly?

Sorry to hi-jack your thread Airman!

Cheers, Jabb

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 9:55 am 
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Jabberwock wrote:
If you are using a photo-etch detail kit which replaces the majority of the deck fittings and requires their removal from the deck moulding, is it feasible to leave the "pesky little bits" in place, and attach the PE replacements to the wooden deck directly?

Sorry to hi-jack your thread Airman!

Cheers, Jabb

Definitely. I'm currently building Trumpeter 1/700 Warspite with Artist Hobby PE. Warspite has molded-on boat cradles so I cut them off, put down the wood deck without removing the cut-outs, and CA'd the new cradle assemblies to the wood surface. As long as the PE or resin replacement parts are not too big, CA will hold them firmly to the wood. Another important observation; Never glue ANY parts to the kit deck before applying the wood deck as the wood deck may not fit properly. :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2016 5:04 am 
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personally i dont like the adhesive that's already there so i kill it with some matt spray. Then i test fit the wooden deck to make sure everything fits properly everywhere. Then glue it down with diluted acrylic gel or gloss medium. Wipe excess with wet brush. There's no harm to the deck, and it 's welded down.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 4:16 pm 
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nikosmadakis wrote:
personally i dont like the adhesive that's already there so i kill it with some matt spray. Then i test fit the wooden deck to make sure everything fits properly everywhere. Then glue it down with diluted acrylic gel or gloss medium. Wipe excess with wet brush. There's no harm to the deck, and it 's welded down.


What is "acrylic gel", can you give me the name of a brand.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 10:35 am 
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Names such as Liquitex, Winsor & Newton, and Golden come to mind, and are probably international. Available in most artist's supply stores. :wave_1:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 11:35 am 
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Thank you, LIQUITEX is avaible in France. I'll try it next time.
My last wooden deck was small and I surely was lucky when gluing it, I'm afraid it won't happen again.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 8:52 am 
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I haven't tried a wood deck for anything yet but I have one waiting for my 1/700 Musashi. The information in this thread alone will be very helpful when I get to that one. Great tips!

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2016 11:20 pm 
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In my experience its best to seal it before application, to prevent warping from moisture.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:16 pm 
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Hello!

I'm planning on using some self-adhesive wooden decks on Japanese aircraft carriers; my question is how do people feel about the raised edges of the wooden deck, since it will not be flush with the metal edges of the deck any longer. Do people splice in plastic strip along the edges to maintain a 100% flush deck, or does it matter?

Dave


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 26, 2019 5:54 pm 
[color=#0000FF]I have used 3 or 4 different brands of deck now and all have lifted sooner or later. This occurs in differing degrees of frustration from small sections to large cross sections. I have learnt not to trust any of the glues used by the producers on their wood decks for a permanent fit and neither should you. It doesnt matter whether you sand, clean, prime or wash the deck beforehand they all lift at some stage. Maybe its the hot, humid climate I live in here, who knows.
I have discovered that a complete fine coat of white glue or 'aquadhere' wood glue as its called here provided the answer. Press down, keep pressure on until dry where necessary, dab off the excess with tissue or cotton buds and once dry it will never lift.
I have been using them for over 4 years now and have had no further problems since using this technique


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2020 11:43 am 
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Du hast schon lange nichts mehr gepostet,deshalb weiß ich nicht ob du überhaupt noch Modellbau betreibst.
Holzdecks bearbeite ich wie folgt.Entweder die Planken direkt auf das Holzdeck des Rumpfes kleben.Vorher das Holzdeck aber mit verdünntem Epoxy (Nitroverdünnung) streichen,damit es dicht ist.Die Planken klebe ich mit dickflüssigen Sekundenkleber auf,die Kalfaterung besteht aus Elektriker Klebeband,ebenfalls mit Sekundenkleber geklebt.

Bei der zweiten Variante verwende ich ein Einlegedeck,besonders dann wenn bereits ein Schanzkleid oder schwer zugängliche Bereiche vorhanden sind.

Du schaust am besten mal hier rein,alles ist gut beschrieben.Wenn dir etwas nicht klar ist frag einfach,es wird dir mit Sicherheit jemand antworteten.
https://www.marine-modellbau-und-mehr.d ... decks.html


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