Model Monkey Sneak Peeks

[Angeliccypher]

Hey Steve,

I wanted to chime in here and say thank you as well for all the efforts and attention to detail.

The only thing that has held me back is budget. Where the parts are not cheap, they do appear to be worth it.

[ModelMonkey]

Thanks, so much! I really do appreciate the understanding and support. Glad to hear that you are satisfied with the products.

Do you still plan on a 1941 Lexington funnel? Have you given thought to a 1/700 1941 Colorado bridge For the Trumpeter Maryland or West Virginia kit.

Aye, Cap'n. [edit: 1941 Lexington funnel is done!]

I'm beginning another design this week, one that should prove popular and unique, a complimentary piece to kits people have in their stash, and one that could be part of a thought-provoking diorama. Once I get that design at about 20% or so I'll put up some renderings.

Thanks again for the support- looking forward to a fruitful summer.

[taskforce48]

Hopefully, sales will improve this summer. If not, I will be making more designs for armor subjects in order to keep the business going, and fewer designs for ship modeling subjects. Let's all hope that won't be necessary.

I for one hope that you can keep producing great designs. I will buy your products without question, my biggest gripe is with Shapeways and even that has gotten a little easier. You just have the same problem that any manufacturer does, you announce a new project that maybe has been being begged for for years. Then one by one you start getting the "Oh can do the X" or it would be really nice if someone did "X on that day that she was really famous". You have to try and read people's minds and as someone that is in Retail management, there is no crystal ball(unless you are holding out on me Steve?! ) I like the idea of you perhaps moving into some generic stuff to help subsidize the more unique additions. Keep the great work coming, remember that to your own admission you are riding a wave that hasn't even begun to crest.

Matt

[MikeyBugs]

Some great stuff Steve. I'm definitely going to have to look into anything for the North Carolina that you've done. I, personally, am glad that you're expanding out into armor. I find that it is rather profitable as it's a larger market. And since you mention that... I have something ask of you in a message.

[pgollin]

...... 2. Continued reluctance of modelers ..........

....Surface print lines do exist, but they can be smoothed by sanding or using an inexpensive "air eraser" emitting baking soda (preferred method - careful air eraser use leaves details intact). .....

Thanks very much for an informative post - very educational.

I have always been put off by the need to rub down even the finest quality 3D parts. I have heard about "air erasers" before, but not seen a post about how to use them, or even seen any adverts for any.

Could you provide a link to any articles you know of (and any ads) ?

THANKS.

.

[ModelMonkey]

Thanks, Matt, Mike and Phil!

Here's a thread where some modelers (David Waples, Bob "akula", etc.) on this site talk about their experience and which model of air eraser they use on Frosted Detail plastics, how to clean clogs, best nozzle size, what compressor pressure to use, etc.: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=161086

Other modelers here have also used an air eraser with success, such as Randy "tegunn" and Kelley "TOMLABEL".

There is certainly an art to using an air eraser and it takes a bit of getting used to, but not too much. If used carefully, it can also remove paint, but other methods do, too. What, I think, is really helpful is an air eraser's ability to get into crevices as well as smooth large surfaces without removing details such as hinges, bolts, and external cabling. And compared to an airbrush, an air eraser is cheap, costing about $30-40.

Models by Harbor Freight and Paasche seem to be popular. They've been used for years to etch glass, but with a tougher, coarser grit than baking soda.

Even though baking soda is nontoxic, please follow the safety instructions that will come with the model.

Be advised that an air eraser will not work on "Strong & Flexible" plastic which is a kind of tough nylon. An air eraser will work best on acrylic plastic like Shapeways' "Frosted Detail" plastics. Nearly all my designs are printed in Frosted Detail acrylic.

I think that once modelers become familiar with 3D printing's materials and part preparation techniques, the reluctance of modelers to try 3D printing will subside. Be encouraged to mentor the new guys! Please take the parts to your local club and show them around. Please enter a contest or two with one of these designs.

Conduct an air eraser demo with your club.

Here's what one air eraser model looks like:

[ModelMonkey]

USS Lexington CV-2 funnel designs are complete. There are four designs, one for each of the following periods:

1928-1935

1936-1940

1941-March, 1942

May 8, 1942 (Battle of the Coral Sea)

You can find out more about Lexington and Saratoga funnel designs here: viewtopic.php?f=16&t=162588&start=20

[bioshock73]

I have a question about your 1/700 5"/38 mk 28 mounts. I like the slots for the barrels. Do they have the rangefinders on the top like this picture of the Maryland?

[ModelMonkey]

I have a question about your 1/700 5"/38 mk 28 mounts. I like the slots for the barrels. Do they have the rangefinders on the top like this picture of the Maryland?

Thanks, Bio!

In 1/700, the mount captain's blast hoods and sight are still as yet unprintable by Shapeways (too thin, ribs too fine). But the technology is ever improving and Shapeways is continually testing new materials for printing using finer print nozzles.

The designs for the blast hood are complete and will be included with the mounts when printer technology is ready for them. They will also be available separately.

[bioshock73]

Any plans for a 1/700 superstructure part upgrade set for a '45 Tennessee?

[ModelMonkey]

Any plans for a 1/700 superstructure part upgrade set for a '45 Tennessee?

Great question. Love to do it and California and a '44-'45 Pennsylvania, too. Just need accurate 2D drawings from which to make the 3D designs. Any help is appreciated! This is because, as a designer, I don't make enough on these designs to buy research materials for each design (the money is in the printing, not the designing). So I rely on what's in the public domain or reference materials sent to me by a generous requester.

And here are the four "tall" pre-war and "short" wartime USS Saratoga CV-3 funnel designs.

1928-1940:

1941-March, 1942:

May, 1942-1943:

1944-1945:[/color][/b]

These and other accurate designs for your models can be found here:
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/Model_Monkey

[ModelMonkey]

Happy Birthday, United States of America!

We are happy to announce that the next design in the queue is now about 25% complete. Officially, it is called the "Ceremonial Bridge". We know it as the USS Arizona Memorial.

Further detailing, underside structural supports, interior walls and some dimensional adjustment are yet to come. For strength, the model is being intentionally designed with walls and floor thicker than scale.

It is not yet clear in which scales it will be available but 1/700, 1/429 and 1/350 are the targets. There is the possibility, but not yet certain, that it can be offered by another vendor in resin.

Thanks to Ray D. Bean who provided scans of the original Navy Facilities Engineering Command blueprints dated January 1962, revised "as-built" August 1977.

[Aop Aur]

The diorama guys will love this! Nice one Steve!

[ModelMonkey]

Thanks, Aop!

Some more work done today fleshing out some of the interior and opening up the stylized windows of the shrine on one side. Some adjustment will be made to them to better match photos. The shrine's window pattern on the other side is different so yet to be designed.

It will be a two-part kit, the floor and the superstructure, to permit interior painting and further detailing if the modeler chooses to do so.

The model has a stand for the memorial plaque midway on one side of the bridge, and two rectangular monuments, one on each side of the shrine's second kneeler. These monuments display the names of survivors whose remains now rest in the wreck enshrined with their shipmates.

The 15 discs on the entrance vestibule overhead represent the vestibule's lights.

[davidwaples]

What a great idea Steve!

[Mark McKinnis]

Hi Steve,


Does your 1954 Oriskany Island have this platform with the odd little dome? Would it be possible to get that platform with the dome separately? I am doing my intrepid 1957 so the Island works but it needs that platform.




Thanks,

Mark

[ModelMonkey]

Aye, Cap'n the Oriskany 1954 island does include the small aft radome. This model is a good fit for a 1957 Intrepid because the bridge window configuration and PriFly shape and location match.

The bridge window framing looked significantly different in the 1960s.

[Mark McKinnis]

Well,


I recently bought another Intrepid kit to make into the Oriskany and the owner included your USS Intrepid '69 Bridge Decks (Vietnam War) to modify the kit Island so I really just need the deck with the small aft dome. Would it be possible to get just that platform with the little dome done?


Thanks,

Mark

[ModelMonkey]

Sure! I'll have it ready for you tomorrow (Tuesday).

[Admiral John Byng]

Steve, do you do a 1/350 square bridge for the Tamiya Fletcher? The Revell kit is too big for me.