1/350 IJN Hiryu

[Angeliccypher]

So after getting really tired of fussing with the San Francisco and setting her aside for a while, I pulled out my 1/350 Fujimi Hiryu.

I am going to do her up for her final air strike against the Yorktown at Midway.

Additional parts being used so far are:
Fujimi PE set
Fujimi wood deck
Fujimi dry transfers
Veteran 12.7s
Veteran 25mms
Veteran Paravains

I will need to also acquire a few more planes and deck crew.

Debating on using the other deck equipment parts but not sure if any are on the kit for the compass, signal laps, deck winch. Also need to figure out which binoculars, fire control directors and range finders were being used on the ship to see if it worth replacing. Any input here is appreciated.

After taking forever to figure out the instructions for the PE and plan the build I spent about 4 hours water lining and attaching the hull halves.

As always, comments and input are very welcomed.

[Aop Aur]

Nice project! I love these IJN carriers, especially in 1/350 scale. I wonder if any company will release one of my most favourite IJN carriers, the Taiho.

Cheers,
Aop

[TimW42]

Excellent. Will watch this one with interest.

Tim W.

[Angeliccypher]

Well Aop, I would like to see that one too as well as Shinano, Unryu, light carriers etc. Although if current trends keep we could get the last Kido Butai CV from Fujimi - Soryu. <crossing fingers>

I always go through my instructions for anything I am adding to the kit and notate the kit instructions heavily so I have a decent road map for a build. It took me nine hours to figure out where all the stuff goes from the PE set. At least that is done. After that I was able to get just a bit more work done on the kit last night before bed.

The bow and stern seams are filled as well as the guide holes for two platforms that will be using PE instead. Speaking of PE; I also threw on my first piece of it to the hull assembly.

Not too much to look at just yet, but I am already highly motivated to keep going.

[Dan K]

Nice. I'm very curious about your waterlining technique, as I plan to do the same thing. And, what do you think of the fit, so far?

[TimW42]

Well Aop, I would like to see that one too as well as Shinano, Unryu, light carriers etc. Although if current trends keep we could get the last Kido Butai CV from Fujimi - Soryu. <crossing fingers>

I always go through my instructions for anything I am adding to the kit and notate the kit instructions heavily so I have a decent road map for a build. It took me nine hours to figure out where all the stuff goes from the PE set. At least that is done. After that I was able to get just a bit more work done on the kit last night before bed.

The bow and stern seams are filled as well as the guide holes for two platforms that will be using PE instead. Speaking of PE; I also threw on my first piece of it to the hull assembly.

6-1.jpg

6-2.jpg

6-3.jpg

6-4.jpg

6-5.jpg

Not too much to look at just yet, but I am already highly motivated to keep going.

You should have the planes on deck switching from bombs to torpedoes. Just sayin.'

Tim W.

[Angeliccypher]

Hey Dan. Glad to have you peaking in on my build.

The way I did the waterline was with a razor saw. Cutting on the inside. Fujimi uses rod style bracing between the hull halves. If you use the bottom row as a guide cutting right above them, you will end up two plating rows below the water line. The exception is the aft most guide hole. You end up cutting through it a little below the halfway point. Take your time.

I have not seen too much fit wise yet. The hull halves are a little finicky but not unworkable. This is likely partially to do with waterlining. The rest of what I have seen is good so far.

Tim, you are so cute......wanting to do things historically incorrect.

[Dan K]

Oh, believe me, Gabriel, I am extremely interested in this build. What do you plan for the waterline plate itself?

[Angeliccypher]

Likely some thick styrene strips crossing the beam with a perpendicular piece on each strip. These will be directly attached to a wood base from Grandpa's Cabinets.

[TimW42]

Hey Dan. Glad to have you peaking in on my build.

The way I did the waterline was with a razor saw. Cutting on the inside. Fujimi uses rod style bracing between the hull halves. If you use the bottom row as a guide cutting right above them, you will end up two plating rows below the water line. The exception is the aft most guide hole. You end up cutting through it a little below the halfway point. Take your time.

I have not seen too much fit wise yet. The hull halves are a little finicky but not unworkable. This is likely partially to do with waterlining. The rest of what I have seen is good so far.

Tim, you are so cute......wanting to do things historically incorrect.

No way! I saw it in a movie! It must be true!



Seriously, I am watching this with interest--have not seen you do a Japanese CV. Wonder how this will compare with the Hornet build? I'm hoping there will be less trauma!

Cheers,

Tim W.

[Angeliccypher]

Lol. This is my first IJN CV. So far the kit is proving to be substantially less traumatic than the Hornet. Also there are only 15 planes to build instead of the 69 I did for the Hornet.

I am currently sanding off the doors and these shutter looking things that will be replaced with PE on the hull.

[Joe Simon]

Looking forward to this one!

[Angeliccypher]

I managed to sneak in a few more hours this evening. All the doors and shutter looking things as well as some larger roller doors on aft port side on the hull have been replaced. I am going to do the degaussing cable next.

As always comments and advise are welcomed!

[Angeliccypher]

Okay I lied. I cannot do the cable yet because I am missing several sub assembly structures that it runs on the outside of. So onto the fo'csle and fantail.

[taskforce48]

Looking good so far


Matt

[Angeliccypher]

Thanks Matt.

Today has been an adventure of F***ed up modeling. The above derailment I mentioned, then I went to prime the two deck pieces so I could paint the linoleum and brass before attaching them. This was the first time I tried MR Surfacer (using 1000) through an airbrush. Out of the gate I have had both the cotton candy plastered on the model effect or it goes on so thick I loose all detailing. I have some lacquer thinner I am going to try (Tamiya) and see if that works.

[Dan K]

Nice PE work.

The one and only time I used primer, it backfired. Now, I just make sure the model is washed and clean of release agent or oil.

[Angeliccypher]

Thanks for the PE compliment Dan!

I sorted out the primer debacle (thanks to several suggestions) and got the linoleum color on. I had an idea that although I knew it was going to be slightly tedious I wanted to try for the brass tie downs. I managed to get the effect to be fairly subtle so when you casually look at it you might not even notice the "brass rod".

Straight on (and severely blown up) you can somewhat make out the one rod I have on this at the top.

But when you catch it in the light......

It is the simple things in life sometimes. For some of the folk on this forum I have figured out the modeling equivalent of tying my shoes. Regardless I am happy.

More strips have been added but it does take a while to allow for drying time before attempting the next one. This is mainly due to my being kind of lazy and not wanting to sit here and cut up several pieces of tape to fit exactly between each spot. While that is occurring I am starting the needed surgery to allow for photoetch on some of the sub assemblies.

Thank you for looking and please feel free to comment.

[Angeliccypher]

The tie rods are done. The fo'csle and fantail are now attached.

On to sub assemblies!

[Angeliccypher]

I have added several kit pieces to the starboard side hull. It does not look like much yet. As a result I have not taken any pictures of that work yet. I did however manage to get some of the PE work done on the bottom of what I think would be called the boat deck (it sits above the fantail).