Model Monkey News

[pmodeller]

Hi:

I am tempted to buy your "USS New Jersey open bridge" in 1/400 scale for a conversion to this ship from the Kangnam/Arii WWII USS Missouri kit. My first question is:
I usually use only enamel paints but see that you do not recommend this. Can I paint this part with an acrylic paint and then over-paint it with the enamel of my choice?
The second one is that the window sections seem to be left open. Can I fill them with Crystal Clear or can I glue clear plastic film behind them?

Finally, I actually plan on building all 4 WWII active ships from the Iowa class in this scale, but can't seem to find too many ways to differentiate these vessels from each other, so I am looking for other ideas for the USS Iowa and the USS Wisconsin. I am wondering if your AAA directors for these ships would allow me to differentiate these ships by period i.e. as launched vs. end of WWII configurations?

Thanks for reading this

Peter M the WWII 1/400 scale Shipguy.

[ModelMonkey]

Hi Peter!

Thanks for the interest!

Regarding paints, acrylics work best.

Having said that, it is possible under certain circumstances to use enamel on these parts but I do not recommend enamel. Generally, nearly all customers who have tried to use enamel on these parts, even by using enamel over another kind of primer, have had a bad experience with the paint. For some chemical reason, any uncured resin left in the part, no matter how microscopic, tends to stop enamel paints from hardening, leaving the modeler with a gooey mess.

It can be done, however. The trick is to ensure that the resin has completely cured. Ultraviolet (UV) light cures this resin. Modelers who have left their parts in direct sunlight for several hours or under a UV lamp for, say, an afternoon, have had success with enamel paints. Still, as you know, 3D-printing remains expensive. If any uncured resin remains, you'll be left with a gooey mess on an expensive part. You'll be unhappy and I'll lose a customer.

Regarding the windows, either method you suggest will work, whichever you prefer.

Please be advised that glue intended for polystyrene plastic models such as Testors Liquid Cement will not work on acrylic plastic. CA "super glue" works well. For other glues, please check the product's labeling or the manufacturer's website to ensure the glue is compatible with acrylic plastic.

Your idea to use different directors to help differentiate the ships sounds excellent. As you know, their differences by war's end are tough for the casual observer to pick out. Some differences were subtle, and had to do with AA fit, masts, radars and antennas. NavSource.com can help as can the experts on the "Calling all Iowa class fans" thread.

One other consideration for Iowa class model builders is the type of 5"/38 twin mounts the kit manufacturer included in your kit. Fast battleships carried Mk.28 mounts. Sometimes, plastic kit manufacturers don't know there were different 5-inch twin mounts and erroneously include the lighter Mk.32 mounts intended for aircraft carriers and cruisers. Mk.32s do have a noticeably different shape, especially the frontal glacis plate (please see renderings below). Trumpeter's 1/200 scale USS Iowa and USS Missouri kits are good examples. They have the wrong turrets.

Hope all this helps, thanks again for your interest, and best wishes on your build!

[ModelMonkey]

Baltimore class 8"/55 turrets with Vietnam War-era features have been added to the catalog in most popular scales.

[ModelMonkey]

Model Monkey is very happy to announce a set of four highly detailed and accurately shaped HMS Hood 15" turrets, and a separate set of 8, accurate 15" barrels, have been added to the catalog. 1/200, 1/350, 1/400, 1/600 and 1/700 scales are ready now. Other scales are possible.

[edit: 1/200, 1/400, 1/600 and 1/700 scale products added]

Features:
1. overall dimensions and shapes match drawings by John Roberts based on official Admiralty plans in the possession of the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich, England, with details adjusted to match photos

2. armored rangefinder hood caps are of the latter, modified design, accurate for May, 1941 (most plastic model kits have the as-built caps, not accurate for 1941)

3. each turret has unique details just like the real turrets
"A" Turret's armored rangefinder hood has chamfered outer, rear corners
"B" Turret has vents and chamfered rear corners
"X" Turret has vents
"Y" Turret has no vents and no chamfers

4. turrets are individually marked "A", "B", "X" or "Y" on the inside of the turret

5. hex-head bolt detail, properly sized, numbered and located after careful study of plans and photos of the actual ship

6. interior supports for gun barrels

[ModelMonkey]

Adding to new Cold War-era products, Model Monkey is happy to announce a set of enlarged, post-war-style Mk.37 directors carried by USS Wisconsin BB-64, many Essex class carriers, Midway class carriers, and some cruisers.

They are available in 1/350 scale, 1/530 (for Revell modernized Essex class), 1/547 (for Revell Midway class) and 1/700 scale. Other scales are possible.

[ModelMonkey]

A very heart-felt thank you to all who purchased Model Monkey products this year! Thanks to you, Model Monkey will be designing more products in 2017.

Fans of Revell's classic 1/547 scale Midway class aircraft carrier models! Model Monkey is happy to add Mk.37 directors of two types to the catalog specifically for these venerable, old but beloved kits. At one time, Heller released one from the Revell molds.


Boxart: Scalemates.com and OldModelKits.com.

[ModelMonkey]

In discussions with designers and printers at Shapeways, we now understand that in addition to acetone, acetate (found in acetone-free nail polish remover) and methyl ethyl ketone (also known as MEK, often used as a paint thinner for acrylic paints) will attack Frosted Detail (also known as FUD, FED or FXD) plastics and may cause the formation of a crystalline powder to form on your Shapeways parts after the solvent evaporates. Acetone can melt the plastic.

Please do not use any products containing acetone, acetate or MEK on Frosted Detail plastics from Shapeways.

In discussions with designers and printers at Shapeways, we now understand that in addition to acetone, acetate (found in acetone-free nail polish remover) and methyl ethyl ketone (also known as MEK, often used as a paint thinner for acrylic paints) will attack Frosted Detail (also known as FUD, FED or FXD) plastics and may cause the formation of a crystalline powder to form on your Shapeways parts after the solvent evaporates. Acetone can melt the plastic.

Please do not use any products containing acetone, acetate or MEK on Frosted Detail plastics from Shapeways.

In a Shapeways forum thread, it was reported that a modeler cleaned FUD with acetone-free nail polish remover probably containing ethyl acetate. The FUD developed crystals afterwards. It was also reported that crystalline powder formed on a FUD part after a modeler used MEK as a thinner for Tamiya acrylic paint. Other posts and threads there suggest that MEK is either chemically related to ethyl acetate and acetone or behaves like them. Acetone is known to attack FUD surfaces.

Here's the new advice:

Cleaning your parts: during the 3D printing process, a waxy substance is used to support certain part features. Although the parts are cleaned by Shapeways afterwards, some waxy residue may remain. It can be safely removed with water and a mild water-based detergent like "Dawn" dishwashing detergent, baby shampoo (no conditioner), or "Simple Green" using an old, soft toothbrush, Q-tips or pipe cleaners. Customers report that "Bestine" and "Goo Gone" also work well. Do NOT use any cleaner containing acetone, acetate or thinner containing Methyl Ethel Ketone (MEK). Acetone will attack acrylic plastic and damage it.

Curing and smoothing surfaces: during the "Frosted Detail" printing process, liquid resin is cured by ultraviolet light. Microscopic bits of resin may remain uncured. Let your parts sit in direct sunlight or under a UV or fluorescent lamp for a few hours to fully cure the resin. After your parts have fully cured, if desired, careful use of an inexpensive "air eraser" emitting common household baking soda can help smooth surfaces of Frosted Detail parts and remove any unwanted "frost" without harming detail. An air eraser, like an airbrush but much cheaper, can be found on Amazon.com. Models by Harbor Freight and Paasche are popular.

Primer and painting: for primer on "Frosted Detail" acrylic plastic, Tamiya "fine gray" is a good choice. Only acrylic paints meant for plastic are recommended. Enamel paint may not harden on "Frosted Detail" plastic. For "Strong and Flexible" products, a kind of nylon, only primers and paints intended specifically for use on nylon should be used. Other hobby paints may not adhere. Simply Google "primer for nylon" and "paint for nylon" for several good choices. Do NOT use any cleaner containing acetone, acetate or thinner containing Methyl Ethel Ketone (MEK). Acetone will attack acrylic plastic and damage it.

[ModelMonkey]

Good news for 1/350 scale IJN fans! Two different sets of IJN ventilators have been successfully re-scaled to 1/350* and have been added to the catalog. The sets include vents of various shapes and sizes common to IJN Nagato, Mutsu and Kongo class ships. They may be appropriate for other IJN ships, such as cruisers, too. Their shape is extremely difficult to scratch-build uniformly so these 3D-printed sets may be a big help.


*Previously available in 1/200 scale.

[Dan K]

Very nice!

[ModelMonkey]

Thanks, Dan!

While waiting for plans for the Baltimore class heavy cruiser USS Los Angeles CA-125 to arrive (a Vietnam War-era enclosed bridge will be designed), I am happy to announce the design for a USS Texas BB-35 fighting top (1944) has been completed and added to the catalog.

It is available in several popular scales.

[ModelMonkey]

We are happy to announce a set of Mk.34 Directors of two types, with Mk.13 airfoil-shaped Radar Antennas, is now available in several popular scales and has been added to the catalog. Sets in other scales are coming.

These two types of Mk.34 directors were fit to ships of the Brooklyn class, Cleveland class, Baltimore class and rebuilt pre-war battleships of the Tennessee and Colorado classes. It was also fit to USS St. Louis CL-49 and others. Four of each type are included. Please check your references to know which of the two types is accurate for your model.

Some directors were fit with airfoil-shaped Mk.13 radar antennas which are included in this set. Again, please check your references to know if this antenna is accurate for your model. No photo-etch is included. Please use your own favorite photo-etch set for catwalks, railings and radar supporting framework.

[edit: 1/350 added, links to products added]

[SeanF]

Excellent!

BTW, you can add a few more to the list of ships this can be used on:
Late '45 fit Pennsylvania:
http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/013801.jpg
(Good for the Dragon kit, which is mostly set up for '45 but lacks this director entirely.)

Late '45 fit Maryland:
http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/014671.jpg

Late '44 fit Colorado:
http://www.navsource.org/archives/01/014503.jpg

Another suggestion: a similar set of Mk. 38 directors with the smooth-type Mk. 13 radars for the fast battleships. Some of the available kits don't have very good Mk 38s to begin with, and often have the radar supports molded on (usually very heavily!) and you have to cut them off to install the PE ones.

- SeanF

[Cadman]

We are happy to announce a set of .................

When do you sleep Steve?

[ModelMonkey]

Hehe! Sleep! What's that?

I do put in some long days. Very supportive family and lots of help from modelers here and some great support from a certain website owner whose encouragement and confidence helped get Model Monkey off the ground.

Interesting you mentioned Mk.38, Jeff. I had a commission fall through on a big scale Mk.38 design not too long ago (it happens every once in a while). I could probably complete the design very quickly. Thanks for the heads-up regarding the Mk.34s as fit to Pennsy, Maryland and Colorado. I updated the product page to reflect it.

The Baltimores are nearly done. A few more days, I think to wrap it all up. I really hope they will be popular. A Vietnam War-era Baltimore has been sorely lacking. Same for Balao fairwaters. A friend in Mass. is helping me with some detailed photos of USS Lionfish but his next visit is a few weeks away yet. In the mean time, I should be able to complete the North Carolina class turrets.

As has been said, the 1/350 kit needs some help. I think SoDak had the same 16" gunhouses. If so, that design will be a two-fer. Can an expert here confirm or deny that to be true?

I'm deferring requests for future Royal Navy subjects to another sponsor, Micro Master. I'll be focusing on USN and some DKM subjects and he'll focus on RN. I think we'll be able to really complement each others' work this year.

[Paul Peterson]

Are you planning on making the Mk-34s in 1/490 scale?

[SeanF]

To add to what I posted earlier, concerning the Mk. 34 director on the late '44 fit Colorado: I checked the kit in my stash: it does not have one, and thus only represents the ship from April to September 1944. For a Leyte and beyond fit, you'll need one of MM's directors!

- Sean F.

[ModelMonkey]

Hi Paul! Yessiree, should be ready today in 1/490.

Thanks Sean!


Boxart: Scalemates.com.

[ModelMonkey]

1/490 is ready!

A set of eight Mk.13 radar antennas is now available in 1/350. The set includes four smooth and four recessed.

[Admiral John Byng]

Hi Steve, I got my 1/350 Hood turrets today and they look great! Two are marked "B" and two "X" is this correct? I know that one of the turrets differed from the others, but were there in fact two types and therefore two of each are provided?

[ModelMonkey]

Hi Admiral!

Shapeways screwed your order up. Please contact their customer service immediately. The turrets should be marked "A", "B", "X" and "Y". There should be four turrets, each one different, no two are the same.

Terribly sorry this happened to you.

It is good to know that Shapeways can print excellent "X" and "Y" turrets. Looking forward to hearing about them printing fine "A" and "B" turrets, too.

I just checked the design uploaded to Shapeways and all four of the turrets are correct in the design. Not sure what happened during printing.