threebs wrote:Here are a few photos of ongoing work, I jump from one project to the next as the project gets to tedious and I start to lose focus, I put it down and work on a different area until that get tedious, and so on. rather than razor blade scrape the moulding on the head rails, I make thin outer strips and glue them to the inner strip first rounding the top edge. did the same with the cathead support used thin strips of wood and then filler to make the cracks go away, that is the yellowish color you see on the side of the support. The posts inside the ships wheel took me ages! I have the hands holds ready to glue on, will be posting finished wheel in a few days I hope.
That is one hell of an amazing ship's wheel. Well done!!
Si hortum in bibliotheca habes, nihil deerit.
- Consul Marcus Tullius Cicero
Damn, i m gettin old! All that work on the ship wheel and then Here I notice it has eight spokes instead of the ten it is suppose to have, cuz only 8 will fit around the rim of the center piece, have already made 20 smaller ones, so the wheel will look different when next i post photos, lol!
carr wrote:Ouch! You know, though, there's a perfectly acceptable tradeoff between accuracy and scale. For example, rivets on airplane models are often oversized and out of scale. Despite this, the rivets convey a structural item that is present even if the model has them overscale. Most people seem to prefer to see the rivets rather than adhere to strict accuracy and scale. Or, another example, I've often portrayed the supporting grid work under platforms by simplifying it to convey the idea without having to try to construct something that is totally accurate but beyond my abilities for the scale.
That's a long winded way of saying that your wheel is perfectly acceptable in that it conveys the construction technique and appearance even if the exact number of spokes is off. Of course, if you prefer to redo it for greater accuracy then by all means do so. Either way, you're looking good!
I second this view. Your model, your rules, threebs. But I think your existing wheel is a masterpiece.
Si hortum in bibliotheca habes, nihil deerit.
- Consul Marcus Tullius Cicero
ok, been at it slowly, the vertical head timbers were very frustrating. I am drilling the holes in the pin rails now, as I will soon be finishing up the deck furniture install so I can get going on the carronades. lots of hole drilling in my future for all the eye bolts for the carronades!
Yes there is a weather seal around the bowsprit where it penetrates the deck, as well as a small air scuttle on either side of it that I have yet to make/install. There are a few things around and near the poop deck as well. and, there are seats of ease in the beak head grated area, again, not quit there as to make/install, I am doing the pinrails around the fore and main mast, as well as making the belaying pins from scratch. Which reminds me, are the actual pins 18 or 16 inches long, got to be at least that to hold the coils of rope they drape over them, right?
Well, bad news, build will slow some. Ran the side of my left thumb across my mini table saw Yeah i know stupid, I did not lower the blade height to just skim the top of the board when I changed blades. I do not like the blade guard cuz I cannot see the cut. Had six stitches, no tendon damage, doc says complete use of thumb in 2 months, although feeling will not return 100% for 6. I am going to make rope and work on lower masts that do not require a left thumb a whole lot. I can use it some even now, just have to be careful.
thumb has healed better than I thought it would.posting.php?mode=reply&f=59&t=85233# still numb cuz nerves have not healed yet. I have been working on various stuff as you can see in the photos
I have been working on my ship everyday for 3 to 5 hours at the local count fair. Should have a lot done in a few more days when it is over, photos coming
I really like what your doing. I'm still learning with every wooden ship WIP I can find.
And your doing a great job, excellent scratch-building ! I'm only 60% through my 1st wooden
ship, I'll get done one of these decades.
There are two ways of doing things, if you're not enjoying yourself, you're doing it wrong.
Willing to do Commissions, Wooden ships as well, building models for over 35 years.
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Now that I am installing the deck furniture on the spar deck, I have noticed a few things now that I look closer that I did not really notice before. Just foward of the main mast is a section of grating that appear to have 2 bits projecting out of it as they do near the fore mast. As the ladders seem mounted in front of this section of grating am I correct to think that this grating is more or less battened down all the time? And I will need to make a frame work under that section of grating to make it appear as if it is holding that grating in place.
At the bow where the stove pipe pierces the spar deck, the covering appears to be something other than the normal wooden grating. Both the small section and the larger one behind it seem to be a metal mess or something fairly fireproof so the heat in the galley stove does not set it afire? That sound right to you guys? All so, the anchor bits where the wales are pierced for the anchor fluke seem to be more in board than on other large US warships such as the Ohio and the Pennsylvania who's bits are part off the hull and appear where I have marked them with a black "x" I am lead to believe this is just a variation between certain ships.
The framing or the spar deck openings need to be widened as they are too skinny to mount brass posts to for the ladder railings. I will do this as I breathlessly await your sage answers to these questions.
I am going with what I suspect is the case, since no is actually disagreeing with what I am postulating. Making good progress, it is looking real nice if I do say so myself. Photos in a few days or so.
I thought the spar deck furniture would be a snap, forgot about redoing ships wheel from 8 spokes to 10, Five trys to finally get them all roughly the same length and spaced around the outer wheel. I have the binnacle done too. Also the ships bell tower and the hatch behind the stove pipe covered. Working on railing for steps coming off the quarter deck, and the platform and rope ladder fron the wale steps, over the wale cap and down to the deck, which is just a rope ladder. Also the rope railings on the ladders I do not have enough brass posts to "fence" off the Main hatch. Might leave it off like I did on the Pennsylvania.
Yeah i know stupid, I did not lower the blade height to just skim the top of the board when I changed blades. I do not like the blade guard cuz I cannot see the cut. Had six stitches, no tendon damage, doc says complete use of thumb in 2 months, although feeling will not return 100% for 6. I am going to make rope and work on lower masts that do not require a left thumb a whole lot. I can use it some even now, just have to be careful.