If you have paint running under your mask, you're laying on too much too wet. Here are my tips on masking ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDS5CCs5LQo
Paul
Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
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- pbudzik
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AdrianSmith
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Re: Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
Thanks Paul. The problem is that I'm tape masking perpendicular to a grooved styrene deck. Getting the tape into every groove to prevent the paint from running along the valley of the groove has proven next to impossible. And I'm brush painting, not airbrushing. I don't have an airbrush setup.pbudzik wrote:If you have paint running under your mask, you're laying on too much too wet. Here are my tips on masking ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDS5CCs5LQo
Paul
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
-Adrian
- pbudzik
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Re: Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
I don't think you are going to have much success with a brush. You may need to use decals.
Paul
Paul
- Timmy C
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Re: Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
I'd try drybrushing - you'll have to experiment with just how dry, and in which direction relative to the tape edge (towards or away from) delivers the best results.
As a bonus, if it's not completely neat...well, call it weathering!
As a bonus, if it's not completely neat...well, call it weathering!
De quoi s'agit-il?
- JimRussell
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Re: Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
Adrian,
This reply may seem absurd, but the Sara's white deck markings are white colored pencil.
A metal ruler was clamped to the deck and a spacing of .25"white, .25"blank, .25 white, etc was used.
The center line was one stroke wide and the off center lines were .060" wide. The two edges of the wide lines were done first and then the center was just colored in.
This technique does not yield 100% coverage, thus is immediately "weathered".
Jim
This reply may seem absurd, but the Sara's white deck markings are white colored pencil.
A metal ruler was clamped to the deck and a spacing of .25"white, .25"blank, .25 white, etc was used.
The center line was one stroke wide and the off center lines were .060" wide. The two edges of the wide lines were done first and then the center was just colored in.
This technique does not yield 100% coverage, thus is immediately "weathered".
Jim
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billyboy
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- Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 4:11 pm
Re: Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
using masking tape when brush painting is tricky!
You won't prevent paint bleeding under the masking tape unless you dry-brush it. Capillary action caused by the planking detail is a perfect storm for paint bleed!
So simply paint the first coat in the same colour as the surrounding colour you've just masked over. When it inevitably leaks under the paint it matches perfectly, and when this first coast dries it seals the edge of the masking tape quite well- the next coat will not bleed under the tape.
Will
You won't prevent paint bleeding under the masking tape unless you dry-brush it. Capillary action caused by the planking detail is a perfect storm for paint bleed!
So simply paint the first coat in the same colour as the surrounding colour you've just masked over. When it inevitably leaks under the paint it matches perfectly, and when this first coast dries it seals the edge of the masking tape quite well- the next coat will not bleed under the tape.
Will
- Goodwood
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Re: Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
Why did that never occur to me? Next time something like this happens, I'm definitely following this suggestion�it was pretty frustrating having to mask and paint the red stripes on the Revell Venator-class Star Destroyer and then having to go back and fix the bleed.billyboy wrote:using masking tape when brush painting is tricky!
You won't prevent paint bleeding under the masking tape unless you dry-brush it. Capillary action caused by the planking detail is a perfect storm for paint bleed!
So simply paint the first coat in the same colour as the surrounding colour you've just masked over. When it inevitably leaks under the paint it matches perfectly, and when this first coast dries it seals the edge of the masking tape quite well- the next coat will not bleed under the tape.
Will
Sean Nash, ACG (aircraft camo gestapo)
On the ways:
1/200 Trumpeter HMS Nelson
1/700 Tamiya USS Yorktown CV-5
In the stash:
1/35 Italiari PT-109
1/35 Tamiya "Pibber" Patrol Boat
1/350 Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-10
On the ways:
1/200 Trumpeter HMS Nelson
1/700 Tamiya USS Yorktown CV-5
In the stash:
1/35 Italiari PT-109
1/35 Tamiya "Pibber" Patrol Boat
1/350 Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-10
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AdrianSmith
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sun Oct 26, 2014 4:21 pm
Re: Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
That doesn't seem absurd at all, and it worked beautifully! Thanks Jim!JimRussell wrote:Adrian,
This reply may seem absurd, but the Sara's white deck markings are white colored pencil.
A metal ruler was clamped to the deck and a spacing of .25"white, .25"blank, .25 white, etc was used.
The center line was one stroke wide and the off center lines were .060" wide. The two edges of the wide lines were done first and then the center was just colored in.
This technique does not yield 100% coverage, thus is immediately "weathered".
Jim
-Adrian
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DrewVIII
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- Joined: Sun Feb 24, 2019 2:01 pm
Re: Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3
It looks like the original poster has not logged on in some time. Anyone here replicate this project or something similar? I am in the planning phase of converting the 1942 Lex model to a late 1943 Saratoga. Basically the same project as this, just minor differences as the Saratoga was refitted in late 1943- early 1944. I am new to modeling so it will be quite a journey.