As you can see I have changed the rails under the hand rail, also repainted the handrails and stanchions. The roof I put a little rust on top and also under the mesh deck. enjoy, ARH
1/96 HMS Iron Duke (1916)
Moderators: MartinJQuinn, JIM BAUMANN, HMAS, Tiny69, Dave Wooley
- ARH
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, here's the update on the poop deck.
As you can see I have changed the rails under the hand rail, also repainted the handrails and stanchions. The roof I put a little rust on top and also under the mesh deck. enjoy, ARH

As you can see I have changed the rails under the hand rail, also repainted the handrails and stanchions. The roof I put a little rust on top and also under the mesh deck. enjoy, ARH
Last edited by ARH on Thu Nov 07, 2013 11:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, this is another 45 ft pinnace.
A block of balsa wood, mark out shape on top. Cut and shape hull. Then mark out deck sections. Drill and cut out stern section. Now with a little lime wood I shape and fit two compartments and a wind deflector. I've now fit the keel from 1/64 ply, also the rudder, prop shaft and prop. Added a section to bring up the bow to deflect water. This is the base for the cradle to hold the pinnace upright. The 4 chock sections in place , made out of litho plate. The rear superstructure built out of 1/64 plywood. Pinnace nearly finished, funnel in place and steam pipe, and standing in its cradle. That's it till tomorrow, enjoy, ARH

A block of balsa wood, mark out shape on top. Cut and shape hull. Then mark out deck sections. Drill and cut out stern section. Now with a little lime wood I shape and fit two compartments and a wind deflector. I've now fit the keel from 1/64 ply, also the rudder, prop shaft and prop. Added a section to bring up the bow to deflect water. This is the base for the cradle to hold the pinnace upright. The 4 chock sections in place , made out of litho plate. The rear superstructure built out of 1/64 plywood. Pinnace nearly finished, funnel in place and steam pipe, and standing in its cradle. That's it till tomorrow, enjoy, ARH
Last edited by ARH on Thu Nov 07, 2013 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, I will continue with the pinnace build.
First coat of paint, the boat was treated with a sanding sealer and left to dry before sanding. Viewed from a different angle. Just placed in position to check effect and looks. Different view, the pinnace was the work boat so they were not painted as nice as the Admirals boat.
Here I have added a gold strip, some ventilator holes and some portholes.
A close up of the two boats in position.
Viewed from the stern.
Just to finish off, I made the boom for the rear superstructure, fit the boat and rigged a pulley for the boom. Also the guns were glued in position.
enjoy, ARH

First coat of paint, the boat was treated with a sanding sealer and left to dry before sanding. Viewed from a different angle. Just placed in position to check effect and looks. Different view, the pinnace was the work boat so they were not painted as nice as the Admirals boat.
Last edited by ARH on Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, I have got to the point where I need to fit the rigging. This is my solution.
Dave and I asked our friend Gordon to come up with some spreaders for the rigging, but it takes time for P/E to be made and I have run out of time. So I have made my own, using some old handrails that I have cut up and some of Gordon's wheels. It takes 10 for one whole side of the ship. I first super glued the first bar to the wheel. Then the second, making a cross. It was a pig of a job until I came up with the idea of inserting a piece of balsa wood in between the cords, making a cross, a lot easier to put the spreader in and super glue them in position.
A long shot of the aerials and spreaders in place, the black lines are for lining up the next set for the starboard side. A nice Bow shot with every thing in place. A shot from midships. This shot I have darkened slightly so you can see the rigging better. This is an R/C model so the superstructure has to come off, from the end of the spreaders there is lycra cord that runs down to the deck and is attached at the end with a brass fitting, 6 in all, 4 spreaders, 2 bow, 2 stern, 2 rigging lines, 1 bow, 1 stern, all these hook off. enjoy, ARH

Dave and I asked our friend Gordon to come up with some spreaders for the rigging, but it takes time for P/E to be made and I have run out of time. So I have made my own, using some old handrails that I have cut up and some of Gordon's wheels. It takes 10 for one whole side of the ship. I first super glued the first bar to the wheel. Then the second, making a cross. It was a pig of a job until I came up with the idea of inserting a piece of balsa wood in between the cords, making a cross, a lot easier to put the spreader in and super glue them in position.
A long shot of the aerials and spreaders in place, the black lines are for lining up the next set for the starboard side. A nice Bow shot with every thing in place. A shot from midships. This shot I have darkened slightly so you can see the rigging better. This is an R/C model so the superstructure has to come off, from the end of the spreaders there is lycra cord that runs down to the deck and is attached at the end with a brass fitting, 6 in all, 4 spreaders, 2 bow, 2 stern, 2 rigging lines, 1 bow, 1 stern, all these hook off. enjoy, ARH
Last edited by ARH on Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, I have been doing some halyards for the signal flags.
I fitted one of my small cleats on the side of the superstructure, then I waxed the cord and fit it to the spar and down to the cleat, 4 in total each side. Also one in front of the observation and compass platform. Then I fit 3 to the next spar up, also at the bow I fit the halyard for the jack staff. Stern view A close up of midships, plating showing better now. enjoy. ARH

I fitted one of my small cleats on the side of the superstructure, then I waxed the cord and fit it to the spar and down to the cleat, 4 in total each side. Also one in front of the observation and compass platform. Then I fit 3 to the next spar up, also at the bow I fit the halyard for the jack staff. Stern view A close up of midships, plating showing better now. enjoy. ARH
Last edited by ARH on Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, It will not be long before ID is finished, I would say about 6 weeks.
This is today's work.
The casement guns have had there blast bags fitted. More handrails. Even more handrails, just a small amount to do tomorrow.
This photo shows how much work there is in this section of the ship.
Casement guns being fitted, first coat of paint on superstructure and plastic section fitted at the end of the handrails.
Halyards fitted, casement guns painted, second coat of paint on superstructure, notice how the plating is standing out, I have highlighted all the plates with a soft pencil.
View from the stern.
In this shot you can see just above the 2 little boats the belaying pins I have fastened to the superstructure and attached the halyards too, there are 15 halyards fitted.
enjoy, ARH

This is today's work.
The casement guns have had there blast bags fitted. More handrails. Even more handrails, just a small amount to do tomorrow.
Last edited by ARH on Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Well Guys, I had another busy day, getting closer and closer to the finish line.
First of all I put in the infill pieces between each casement, this is made of balsa wood and covered with litho plate. Then I fit the bottom section on the outside of the casement, some one asked how I was going to get the superstructure off with out getting all the aerials tangled up. Well my solution is 2 rods down the #2 Turret the hooks fit in the end, the rear lines, this time it only needed 1 poking out of the frames holding up the observation tower, both lines hooked in the end.
Also fitted the small Samson post near the funnel. Timber for 6 new coaling booms, 3 carved and sanded. First boom fitted and casements have had there first coat of paint, also top part of casement finished. 2 more booms fitted, one next to the funnel and one on the deck. Casements have had a second coat of paint. Viewed from the stern. You may just notice 2 hooks attached to the guns on the rear superstructure, these are the other half of the rig for the aerials. The last photo is the reel under the boom, fitted and painted. enjoy, ARH

First of all I put in the infill pieces between each casement, this is made of balsa wood and covered with litho plate. Then I fit the bottom section on the outside of the casement, some one asked how I was going to get the superstructure off with out getting all the aerials tangled up. Well my solution is 2 rods down the #2 Turret the hooks fit in the end, the rear lines, this time it only needed 1 poking out of the frames holding up the observation tower, both lines hooked in the end.
Also fitted the small Samson post near the funnel. Timber for 6 new coaling booms, 3 carved and sanded. First boom fitted and casements have had there first coat of paint, also top part of casement finished. 2 more booms fitted, one next to the funnel and one on the deck. Casements have had a second coat of paint. Viewed from the stern. You may just notice 2 hooks attached to the guns on the rear superstructure, these are the other half of the rig for the aerials. The last photo is the reel under the boom, fitted and painted. enjoy, ARH
Last edited by ARH on Fri Nov 08, 2013 10:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, Today's work, reels and a small boat.
To make the reels I am using some of Gordon Brooks P/E hand wheels. First I cut 2 loose from the fret of over 250, also sort out some plastic tube. Next I super glued 1 wheel to each end of the plastic tube. I'm making 4 reels, so it's 4 bases, 4 left hand and 4 right hand side sections. The side sections are drilled and the bottom section bent at 90 deg. The side section is glued in place. The reel and shaft are fitted then the other side is glued in place. Sorry I for got to take a picture of the latter part
Here you can see 3 different sizes, today I made 4 medium size reels, 2 are fitted on the starboard side. This is the ship to date, note the small boat on the rear superstructure, boom fitted and rigged. The boat is Quaycraft and needed to have 1 inch cut out of the middle for right size. enjoy, ARH

To make the reels I am using some of Gordon Brooks P/E hand wheels. First I cut 2 loose from the fret of over 250, also sort out some plastic tube. Next I super glued 1 wheel to each end of the plastic tube. I'm making 4 reels, so it's 4 bases, 4 left hand and 4 right hand side sections. The side sections are drilled and the bottom section bent at 90 deg. The side section is glued in place. The reel and shaft are fitted then the other side is glued in place. Sorry I for got to take a picture of the latter part
Here you can see 3 different sizes, today I made 4 medium size reels, 2 are fitted on the starboard side. This is the ship to date, note the small boat on the rear superstructure, boom fitted and rigged. The boat is Quaycraft and needed to have 1 inch cut out of the middle for right size. enjoy, ARH
Last edited by ARH on Fri Nov 08, 2013 11:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, Cadman said for real orthenticity you need some coal. Well I have bagged it to keep it from spilling all over the deck. There's always some left over from coaling, for the forge and a few other places as you can see from all the smoke vent pipes.
The first thing I did was mix some Milliput. Equal amounts and blend it together so it all looks the same colour. I then shaped it into a long narrow section and cut it up into 18 parts. Next I shaped it in to coal bags and simulated the coal on top. 1 Set for PORT and 1 set for the STARBOARD SIDE. 18 Bags in all Then I painted the coal black, it looks shiny but it mats down when dry. I then painted the rest of the bags , blackish grey. Here they are leaning up against the casing. All I need now is a few loose pieces of real coal just away from the 2 bags that have fell down,
enjoy, ARH

The first thing I did was mix some Milliput. Equal amounts and blend it together so it all looks the same colour. I then shaped it into a long narrow section and cut it up into 18 parts. Next I shaped it in to coal bags and simulated the coal on top. 1 Set for PORT and 1 set for the STARBOARD SIDE. 18 Bags in all Then I painted the coal black, it looks shiny but it mats down when dry. I then painted the rest of the bags , blackish grey. Here they are leaning up against the casing. All I need now is a few loose pieces of real coal just away from the 2 bags that have fell down,
Last edited by ARH on Fri Nov 08, 2013 11:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, More Reels and also the motors for ID and Marlborough
These are the motors for ID AND Marlborough. Four each, they are BUHLA.
6-12 Volts
0.46 amps at 2500 revs
High torque low current drain and suppressed.
�10-00 each including postage from Motors Direct, On to the small reels, I am again using Gordon's wheels and some plastic rod. These are very small, you can get all 5 on a one penny peace, so forgive me if they look a little out of shape in places.
All 5 have the shafts glued in place.
The bases and sides bent to shape and drilled.
Everything assembled and waiting for the glue to dry. As you can see a little out of shape, but these will be adjusted before painting.
Painted and all 4 fitted.
enjoy, ARH

These are the motors for ID AND Marlborough. Four each, they are BUHLA.
6-12 Volts
0.46 amps at 2500 revs
High torque low current drain and suppressed.
�10-00 each including postage from Motors Direct, On to the small reels, I am again using Gordon's wheels and some plastic rod. These are very small, you can get all 5 on a one penny peace, so forgive me if they look a little out of shape in places.
Last edited by ARH on Sat Nov 09, 2013 2:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, This is how I set up my motors for installation in to the model.
First I get a piece of brass plate and cut it to size, and bend it to shape. Next I drill a large hole in the middle and mark out for the 4 for the motor and base and drilled to size. Next I filed a key way in to the shaft of the motor. I then fit the spline and tighten with an Allen key. I then offered up the motor to the base plate and screwed in the 4 bolts.
All 4 motors finished and the universal coupling s fitted. enjoy, ARH

First I get a piece of brass plate and cut it to size, and bend it to shape. Next I drill a large hole in the middle and mark out for the 4 for the motor and base and drilled to size. Next I filed a key way in to the shaft of the motor. I then fit the spline and tighten with an Allen key. I then offered up the motor to the base plate and screwed in the 4 bolts.
All 4 motors finished and the universal coupling s fitted. enjoy, ARH
Last edited by ARH on Sat Nov 09, 2013 2:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
- Location: Land of the Cheshire cat
Hi Guys, IRON DUKE got her name on the port side today,
The letters are Slater's 3mm plastic letters. They are glued on with super glue. They are to be painted over yet and the paint sanded off the face of the letter. This binds them to the hull and superstructure. enjoy, ARH.

The letters are Slater's 3mm plastic letters. They are glued on with super glue. They are to be painted over yet and the paint sanded off the face of the letter. This binds them to the hull and superstructure. enjoy, ARH.
Last edited by ARH on Sat Nov 09, 2013 3:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, as you can see the STOKER HOLT sits around drinking tea all day while his mate cleans up,
These figures have to be painted yet also the doors enjoy, ARH

These figures have to be painted yet also the doors enjoy, ARH
Last edited by ARH on Sat Nov 09, 2013 3:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- ARH
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Hi Guys, Here's a few more pictures I took to day a little smaller, but some close ups.
A slight angled shot, A nice bow shot you can see I have repainted the anti fouling black and added some ropes. You may see number one on the fighting bridge and the Admiral keeping a eye on stoker Holt from behind the searchlight.
Iron Duke gets her name on the rear superstructure, also the Marine turret partly finished.
Iron Duke also get her name on the stern.
enjoy. ARH

A slight angled shot, A nice bow shot you can see I have repainted the anti fouling black and added some ropes. You may see number one on the fighting bridge and the Admiral keeping a eye on stoker Holt from behind the searchlight.
Last edited by ARH on Sat Nov 09, 2013 3:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.
- Dave Wooley
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- ARH
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:52 am
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Hi Guys, Another day less, more work done on the model, it never ends
Well the model got 2 inches taller today, the Admirals jack staff was raised at the top of the mast. Iron Duke got her name on the starboard side. Also the cut back section along the side of the hull got finished and all scuttles were glazed with white glue. The 2 small hatches near ID name are finished. All coaling hatches were fitted to the starboard side deck. Here's a close up of the rigging. I took on board what VLAD had said about it looking thick, this was due to it being stark white, I have toned it to a grey. What do you think? Myself I think it looks better, thanks Vlad.
enjoy, ARH

Well the model got 2 inches taller today, the Admirals jack staff was raised at the top of the mast. Iron Duke got her name on the starboard side. Also the cut back section along the side of the hull got finished and all scuttles were glazed with white glue. The 2 small hatches near ID name are finished. All coaling hatches were fitted to the starboard side deck. Here's a close up of the rigging. I took on board what VLAD had said about it looking thick, this was due to it being stark white, I have toned it to a grey. What do you think? Myself I think it looks better, thanks Vlad.
Last edited by ARH on Sat Nov 09, 2013 3:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Simple but effective.

