I'm not entirely sure I understand your description and what you are asking. The all moving vertical rudders are the same on all three 688 versions; one difference, as noted above, is the early boats were missing the towed array on the starboard stern plane. Hence if you want an early 688 "as built", you need to remove the towed array fairing along the starboard side, as noted by Jacob above. I see you left the towed array fairing on your model. The towed array itself deploys out of the tube on the tip of the starboard stern plane. You might want to drill this out a little bit (not too deep) to make it look like a tube rather than a solid plug. Likewise, the stern planes (which are different shapes than the rudders) have an immovable section forward and a hinged section in the rear; it looks as if you have these on correctly as well. So I am not exactly sure what you are asking about the rudder shapes....
I see the kit comes with "panel lines" running around the hull, as well as a waterline scribing around the upper deck. These should be filled in with putty and smoothed to be level with the hull. Submarine do
NOT have panel lines in the hull (think about that... would you want panel lines in a pressure hull?). In the "real world" at Electric Boat, hull sections are joined and welded (with multiple welding passes) together and then the welds are ground down to within 1/16th of an inch of the rest of the hull, to minimize flow noise and friction. The only "panel lines" on a submarine should be the removable panels on the sail (for maintenance of the various masts) the two deck hatches, external torpedo tube shutters and the panel lines on the VLS installations on the later boats. Somewhere in the lost sands of time, back in the early 1990's someone at (Dragon) DML making the masters thought they would put panel lines on the hull, and that mistake has been repeated
ad infinitum.
Here's an LA in dry dock; see any panel lines in the hull?
http://navsource.org/archives/08/770/0877201.jpghttps://i.pinimg.com/originals/94/1d/52/941d5227b2b1b29f95e0d2e157fe9ea4.jpgBTW, what IS missing in these kits are ballast tank flood ports on the bottom of the hull. I mean they ARE submarines and these are a vital necessity when attempting to submerge. Also, lose the six unsightly bumps along the centerline aft of the sail. These are very poor & oversized representations of retractable cleats. The exception is the one protruding installation on the bow, which is a sonar installation. I suppose the round circle aft of the sail is supposed to be one of the entry hatches. There should be one forward of the sail as well. Bad news, though, is that the circular hatches have an oblong integral cover to smooth the hull, which you can see here:
http://navsource.org/archives/08/700/0870019.jpgSo it should be an oblong and not a round scribing.
The anhedral fins were on the later 688's, which also had a "ringed propeller" to operate under ice (protect the blade tips). The anhedral were actually at the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, more horizontal than vertical (see below photos). You can see these two items, along with another towed array that was added to the port side on Jacob's propeller page- about 4-5 photos from the bottom of the page.
https://imgur.com/a/IQBOiAlso, here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/WarshipPorn/comments/4huhar/a_los_angeles_class_submarine_in_dry_dock_5514_x/Tom
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, but Riich's propeller is too big 
However HB painting instructions all seem super wonky. Im left in utter confusion, before I starred.
