1/700 Amagi diorama

[Chelonian]

That battle damage looks very convincing - great job.

[LE BOSCO]

just sublim Marijn a great lesson of weathering
cheers
Nicolas

[Goodwood]

This day may have been a long time in coming, but boy oh boy is it worth it!

[ModelMonkey]

Brilliant!

Great eye for detail and subtle paint and coloring features.

[Joe Simon]

I see another book coming! Congratulations on a brilliant masterpiece!

[marijn van gils]

Many thanks guys!

The first feel is there, but still a lot of 'layers' need to be added for the final effect. Still a lot of work to be done, but I'm really having fun!

Cheers,

Marijn

[Bangor lad]

Superb and inspirational, Marijn.

David

[Milan Kuliffay]

Marijn, excellent weathering.

[Vladi]

Really stunning!

[Dan K]

Agreed. Just stunning work.

[Goodwood]

The first feel is there, but still a lot of 'layers' need to be added for the final effect. Still a lot of work to be done, but I'm really having fun!

You see, that's the difference between you and most other modelers I've seen. Many would take what you've got down so far and call it done, and that'd be perfectly fine even in a diorama setting. But simply knowing that, for you, this is only the beginning, makes us practically drool for more. It's the whole 'orders of magnitude' that you take the craft to that makes us so excited.

[EJFoeth]

When seeing these light filters my first reaction was: oh no! But I know shading lines will be added and will pull some lighter lines back to the dark side...

Nice to watch the progress; the hair spay technique works very well at 1:700!

[zs180]

Oh yes! That's exactly what I was expecting the paintjob to look like, but actually seeing it is so pleasing to my eye.
Looking forward with great anticipation for the rest of the weathering process!

[f14dtomcat]

Marijn, I hope to meet you and see this masterpiece model at Scale Model Challenge in Veldhoven 21-22 October.

[marijn van gils]

Many thanks everyone!

When seeing these light filters my first reaction was: oh no! But I know shading lines will be added and will pull some lighter lines back to the dark side...

Yes, it is often necessary to exaggerate the first weathering steps, because they will become less visible with subsequent layers.
The different techniques are not difficult at all to execute, but to combine them and achieve a balanced end result is more challenging and takes some experience. And a lot of messing around until it look ok!

@ f14dtomcat: I'll be there! The model will be far from ready, but probably I'll put it on the KMK clubstand anyway. Looking forward to meeting you!

Cheers,

Marijn

[EJFoeth]

Ah indeed, when working in the 'wet' stage the colours are already more pronounced then when dried and after filtering the colours come closer again... I'll have to add a few light 'dusty' washed too to simulate salt (funnel, fwd superstructure, bow) but I'd probably take a correction brush to remove the light lines where you'd normally add a dark wash / line? I think the main area on the Amagi would be the bridge decks where the light gray accumulates against the bulkheads? Ah well, more layers are to follow so we'll see

A small Q on the hair spray technique: do you need to be careful with the current layer or is it now fixed? That is, will it stay on the model? I'd be worried you might accidentally remove part of the top layer...

[marijn van gils]

Hello Evert-Jan!

I'd probably take a correction brush to remove the light lines where you'd normally add a dark wash / line? I think the main area on the Amagi would be the bridge decks where the light gray accumulates against the bulkheads?

It depends on what you want to achieve. For a dusty effect, you can let the light paint run into those corners and leave them there. You can also paint shadows next to them, which will lessen the effect a bit. Or you could paint shadows directly over them, which will eliminate the light lines as dark covers light paint easily.
But if you only want salt stains or light dust effects (which is more applicable to an active well maintained ship as opposed to a wreck), it might be best to not let the light paint accumulate and dry in the corners, if necessary by removing it with a correction brush like you propose. It is not necessary, but this way you'll get the best feel for the effect you are applying.

A small Q on the hair spray technique: do you need to be careful with the current layer or is it now fixed? That is, will it stay on the model? I'd be worried you might accidentally remove part of the top layer...

I airbrushed a coat of matt varnish over it to seal it. I would also be worried about the hairspray dissolving with the white spirit and more chips being generated.
Also in between each hairspray/paint layer, it is advisable to seal the previous layer with varnish, especially if masking will be needed.

Cheers,

Marijn

[JIM BAUMANN]

good advice-- borne out be a visually very promising result!!

JB

[JariL]

Hi Marijn,

What is the story with the waterline?

Jari

[marijn van gils]

Thanks Jim!

Hello Jari!
Do you mean the dirt at the waterline? Like this:


This will follow after lining the shadows. The shadows define the rest of the general coloration, which will make it easier for me to judge by eye how intense I want the dirty lines to be. I plan to paint the dirt by hand. It will be time-consuming, but it will give me the most control.
After the dirty lines are in place, I can paint the remainder of weathering effects, as these will sometimes butt up against these lines.

How's your POW coming along?

Cheers,

Marijn