marinR00 wrote:Still rough... but coming along nicely. So many 20mm's..... !!
What kit is that?
This is embarrassing since I've been working on this darn thing for 10 years! Its actually my first ship model.
But to the best of my recollection, its the Tamiya Missouri, with Lions Roar and GGM photoetch, aftermarket wooden deck (which is terrible, I shouldn't have used it), an Iowa resin conversion kit, and a smattering of other stuff from White Ensign, l'arsenal, B&D gun barrels, etc. The paints are from the British company that went out of business. (I know this isn't very helpful, sorry!)
Thanks to feedback from the forum I removed the overboard discharge covers which were not installed until the 50's.
Pertaining to the rows of Ox Acetylene welding tanks attached to the exterior bulkheads during WW2: were they painted gray especially for the Navy or left in the typical industrial colors, blue for Ox, and red Acetylene? Were any other gasses / tanks stored there with a particular color?
Thanks for the photos and insight. The BJ manual indicates the tanks are generally all black with the top 20% or so colored to identify gas type. I'm betting some of the cylinders carried aboard the Iowas's included CFC refrigerant and helium.
pengbuzz wrote:I did this one as a conversion of a "Revellogram" BB-63, about the time of the Gulf War:
I added the Tomahawk launchers and fantail landing area on the ship; still need to make all the masts, antennae and whatnot out of stretched sprue. The water is simply styrofoam cut into a couple of sheets and overlaid with crinkled tinfoil that's been painted. The water was then finished off with realistic water and it's sister product for making whitecaps.
I really need to finish this one...been sitting around a bit.
This looks beautiful. Would love to see some close up shots.
I want to build a 1/700 and/or 1/350 New Jersey in 1944/45 fit, wearing Measure 21.
What are my options as far as kits go? Want an accurate OOB with few PE upgrades... Can a Missouri be used and if so which one and what needs to be done to it?
Front page is not updated and we have 150 pages here... bit of a mess to search really Please help!!
On real WWII US naval ships, are the hull paint made to specified colors at the paint factory, or are they mixed on demand at the dockyard or aboard the ship from basic colors? Closeup Pictures of American warship hulls of the era usually show unevenness or blotchiness of paint suggesting touch up paints are not exactly the same color as the original coat, or that the paint fades or discolors quite fast.
Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.
I'm not an authoritative expert on anti-fouling, but in my research on camouflage paint I've come across a few documents on the subject. One factor to consider is that the Navy started using a special plastic formula anti-fouling during the war that was "better" but much more tempermental with conditions during application. CV-10 Yorktown's application of this failed as it was sprayed on too cold of a day and her CO was in too big of a hurry to get to war to wait around. When she was drydocked at Puget Sound about 18 months later her hull was effectively green due to the amount of failure from this.
This was not a material all repair activities would be able to apply, and even if so it is doubtful they would re-spray an entire hull, so patchwork would be the norm I would expect.
For goodness sake if you are doing a weathered underwater hull please don't streak DOWN with your weathering. Hulls didn't weather like the area above water. I've seen otherwise really good weather jobs have rust streaks underwater and it just completely takes me out of the build.
Its seems without a reference to which to compare, it's really quite difficult to tell if Life Color Navy Blue 5N is wrong one way or the other. Since I've got two ships decorated in late WW 2 color and both have 5N in their schemes, at least these two models compared side-by-side will be consistent. Whether they are accurate is a completely difference challenge. On my old Tamiya Missouri model which I painted in 1985, I used the formula in the Tamiya instructions to mix the navy blue and it was much bluer than what Life color has, but when looking at color samples on line, the Life Color is actually closer to the prototype than the Tamiya mix� so who knows? Not me, that's for sure. What I am finding is Deck Blue and Navy Blue are so close to each other as almost being interchangeable. Since I'm painting my Essex solid 5N and the non-flight decks are deck blue, you really can't tell where one ends and the other begins unless you study it. Deck blue is a bit darker�but just a bit.
Builder 2010 wrote:Its seems without a reference to which to compare, it's really quite difficult to tell if Life Color Navy Blue 5N is wrong one way or the other.
I purchased a colour swatch from The Floating Drydock about 20 years ago of the WW2 USN colours.
The colours are from 1943-1945 and are known as Purple-Blues. Six colours are on the card:
5-P Pale Gray 5-L Light Gray
5-H Haze Gray 5-O Ocean Gray
5-N Navy Blue 20-B Deck Blue
5-N Navy Blue and 20-B Deck Blue are very dark.
I did some research and what I discovered was that purple paint was supplied in drums and white was added to make the different colours. I never discovered the ratio of the mix for each colour and I am certain that in the field the attitude would be "near enough is good enough". This would explain the blotched appearance of ships, as only the area needing repair would be painted.
I don't think this colour swatch is available any more.
Actually you have it turned around, the USN sent out drums of WHITE paint and separate pints tinting for mixing onsite of the painting. Almost all of the Purple-Blue paints could be made by mixing different ratios of the white and tinting blue. Deck Blue however was a separate paint premixed because it was a more durable "DECK" paint intended to be walked on. On models of course, there is no need to use of a paint that can stand up to being walked on.
In practice, Yards (USN and private) could mix paints in big quantities and apply the paint with spray guns. They would properly prepare the surfaces and could keep a pretty even tone overall on a ship where applied. During touch up, where only areas needing fresh paint, a tonal difference can be noticed. Also, in cases where paint was applied by crewmen "going over the side" using paint mixed locally and maybe painting the whole ship (like in early 1945 when the dazzle camo schemes were being painted over in Ms 21 or Ms 22) some variation could be noted.
Can anyone point me to a clear rigging diagram for all the wire antennae between forward superstructure block and tower foremast on the Missouri? There are numerous small tripod wire antenna outriggers all around the forward superstructure block and tower foremast.
Thanks
Assessing the impact of new area rug under modeling table.
Sometime ago you posted a message wondering why there are only microfilm "engineering" ship plans at NARA. First off NARA didn't take original drawings and make microfilm copies and throw the paper/mylar away. NARA got the ship plans as is from the USN. In my research at NARA I came across a mention in the 1950s where the USN was taking the mountains of ship plans they had and were microfilming them for longterm storage to save space. Since I didn't bother making a scanned copy at the time, I don't think I could find that reference again (in photos of textual records?) to now make a copy of it. Whether there are paper/mylar prints available is dependent on if the USN saved those plans and forwarded them to NARA. Also, I understand that the USN still has a LOT of ship drawings in the holding area for transfer to NARA, but lacks someone to review and declassify them first.
However, on my last trip to NARA I came across a photo that pushes the process of microfilming ship plans even earlier. This photo shows BuOrd drawings being microfilmed, but likely they were also microfilming other drawings as well. The USN started microfilming to make shipping the plans across the globe easier during WWII. This photo demonstrates why it was seen as desirable. I suspect that post-WWII, the USN went the extra step of microfilming drawings at USN Shipyards to reduce the volume of storage required. Each Shipyard had a set of drawings for EVERY ship in the USN even if a particular ship was assigned to them as their Home Yard.
So many 20mm's..... !!
