Calling all HMS Repulse & HMS Renown fans

[Guest]

Frank,

Please check your e-mail and/or messages, when you get a free minute!

--Dan

[FW_Allen]

Frank,

Please check your e-mail and/or messages, when you get a free minute!

--Dan

Many thanks Dan!

[dick]

Frank,

I am unconvinced by the suggestion that the 'lights' were a medium rather than a light grey, or that the 'darks' were not black or near black. It contradicts what you see in photos of Repulse in her contrast scheme. I suspect this idea has come from the selective quotation of a particular sentence that Tennant wrote in one particular missive responding to his boss VABCS. But this sentence needs to be seen in the wider context of all the exchanges between Tennant and his boss when trying to cajole VABCS into accepting the merits of Repulse's home-grown ideas for camouflage painting and also the overall time from Tennant's first proposal until he ultimately paints his ship his way. The sentence may well not describe what Tennant first intended or ultimately did. It requires a lengthy explanation but I thought I would just put a marker down right away.


Best wishes,

Richard

[Duke]

Frank,

Please check your e-mail and/or messages, when you get a free minute!

--Dan

Many thanks Dan!

Hi Frank,

Would you mind sharing what Dan had sent you, as I am also building the Tamiya kit as sunk, and have basically the same questions/confusions as you do.
Would greatly appreciate that.

Thanks!

[FW_Allen]

Hi Frank,

Would you mind sharing what Dan had sent you, as I am also building the Tamiya kit as sunk, and have basically the same questions/confusions as you do.
Would greatly appreciate that.

Thanks!

I'd love to help, but I can only share things if he approves it. To be honest, I do not intend to build a 100% accurate/super-precise miniature. I was hoping this would be a less challenging build to help me regenerate my skills and get me back into modelling...but so far its requiring lots of changes and I see potential for burnout and build abandonment. So, rather than do that, I will only correct the most glaring errors (i.e, Royal apartments and things of that nature).

[Duke]

Hi Frank,

Would you mind sharing what Dan had sent you, as I am also building the Tamiya kit as sunk, and have basically the same questions/confusions as you do.
Would greatly appreciate that.

Thanks!

I'd love to help, but I can only share things if he approves it. To be honest, I do not intend to build a 100% accurate/super-precise miniature. I was hoping this would be a less challenging build to help me regenerate my skills and get me back into modelling...but so far its requiring lots of changes and I see potential for burnout and build abandonment. So, rather than do that, I will only correct the most glaring errors (i.e, Royal apartments and things of that nature).

I started this build with the intention of using it to work on "advanced" techniques, like error-fixing, scratch-building, and airbrushing. But I, too, also thought that this would be a less challenging build than I had initially thought, and while I don't mind that too much (just taking it slowly, it's not a race to finish first...), but what's difficult is trying to gleam off as much up-to-date information as possible from a forum that's well over 10 years old, and without having to purchase too many books and other references.
That said, I hope he approves

[FW_Allen]

I started this build with the intention of using it to work on "advanced" techniques, like error-fixing, scratch-building, and airbrushing. But I, too, also thought that this would be a less challenging build than I had initially thought, and while I don't mind that too much (just taking it slowly, it's not a race to finish first...), but what's difficult is trying to gleam off as much up-to-date information as possible from a forum that's well over 10 years old, and without having to purchase too many books and other references.
That said, I hope he approves

This is why we opted to write-up articles on some of the most popular kits of Hood on the Hood Association's website. The idea was to highlight key issues for those who wish to accurise/detail their models. The articles are a bit rough and by no means highlight 100% of all issues (nor do we cover all models), but they are good starting points. Of course, it was easy for us as we specialise in a single ship. Naturally we understand that not everyone wants to go that far and that's just fine. It doesn't matter if some of the models aren't perfect...we're happy to know that people are building Hood. Too much rivet counting puts some people off. We need interest in the ship(s) and the hobby to grow.

Perhaps someone will ultimately do likewise for Repulse (maybe even for that "other ship" that "assaulted" Hood in 1935, LOL). A list here, in the forum of the common errors. If not for specific models, then perhaps a list of mistakes common to most if not all models. What does everyone always get wrong for Repulse as sunk (or whatever timeframe the other kits cover)? That sort of thing might be a very useful starting point for most folks. Maybe pieces of this sort of thing already exists, buried in various threads (quite possible). Its just a suggestion for those who know Repulse well. There's no way I'd ever attempt it myself as my familiarity lies solely with Hood. In the meantime, I'll attempt to build my little Repulse to a degree of accuracy I feel comfortable with, then get back to my beloved "7Bs." Of course, I might take a detour and finish my old Revell Gokstad drakkar/long ship or my old AMT zeppelin Macon first...

[FW_Allen]

"7Bs" ?

That's a variation of Hood's real nickname amongst the crew...at least by the late 30s. I've also seen 5Bs and 6Bs. That "Mighty Hood" stuff was indeed used, but mainly by clean-cut types and of course for the public, etc. Start with 5Bs and you have the shortest and cleanest nickname which is "Britain's Biggest Battlecruiser Built by Brown." Now, add some words to describe bovine scatology (or reproductive components) and a fatherless child and you can reach a full 7Bs (pronounced "Seven Bees" by the way)...

Darn Hood guy has hijacked the Repulse forum! Sorry about that! Back to our regularly scheduled programme featuring HMS Repair, uh, I mean Repulse...

[maurice de saxe]

My understanding is that the nickname really should be "Mighty 'ood" and not "Mighty Hood" because the term was used first by a tabloid newspaper journalist in the 1920s, purportedly quoting a member of the lower deck.

[HMSInflexible1]

I am also trying to build HMS Repulse in 1/350 scale from the trumpeter kit but have become stalled because of the many unanswered questions about the ship�s configuration in 1941. Therefore I very much support Frank Allen�s plea for a summary of the major changes that are required.
Any help gratefully received!

Happy modelling everyone

Jonathan

[FW_Allen]

My Tamiya 1/700 �Repair� is going very slowly. I�ve only done a little work on the Flying Deck (FD)so far. These are mostly easy modifications (though executed somewhat roughly as I�m rather ham-fisted at times). You can see some of this in the attached photo.

1. I�ve filled in the portside bulkhead plus part of the starboard bulkhead (to include adding the angular inboard portion).
2. I added the larger portholes (my drill bit the size is prob a tad large) to both sides.
3. I corrected the shape (it�s much closer to the actual shape but not quite exact)of the pentagonal structure under the HACS pedestal.
4. I reduced the width of the four large vents (only the forward pair are seen dry-fitted into place).
5. I filled in the trunk/vent hole at the pointed aft end.
6. I�ve also cut off the two side compartments from the Shelter Deck (SD) below that.

I still have a bit of work to do to the FD before I start really working on the SD:

Off the top of my head I know that I still need to remove the �racks� (raised lines)around the edges of the rear angular portion of the deck. I have to add the starboard side pillars. I also need to add a ladder way or two. More portholes must be added, plus square windows, vents, HACS support braces and the usual photoetch (doors, hatches, rails, etc.). I also need to refine the four large vents alter the shape a bit, adjust the heights, etc. It won�t be precise, but it will be more accurate than out of the box.

As for the shelter deck below it, my next step will be to remove the mounded-in benches, add portholes and then get to work on the Royal Apartments. Flyhawk makes a detail set, but there appears to be some issues with the starboard apartments...so it�s strip/sheet styrene time I guess. Else I have to make a new angular vent that will rise up and near the end of the FD.

So progress of sorts! I just hope I don�t get burnt out and quit before I get to the SD ( which, knowing my history, is highly likely). Of course, I can always move to the model in the background ( as plain/under-detailed as it is, I still have a soft spot for the ol� Tamiya Hood...I�m gonna build a mostly out of the box (only minor updates and minimal photoetch details) to use for quick reference and for handling (thus the reason it can�t be too intricate). It�s not too dissimilar to what we used to do for enemy threat recognition in my Air Force days...those little models were useful to our pilots and backseaters, etc. As well as I know the ship, it�s still good to have a reference mode, when viewing photos. I suppose if I get frustrated, I could do the same with this Repulse...

[FW_Allen]

Well, I'm shelving the Tamiya 1/700 kit. Requires too much work (for me at this point in time). I can't do much right now anyway...I'm down to one arm for a couple of months (detached a bicep...ouch!). Besides, if I am going to put that much work into something, it really should be Hood. Maybe I'll revisit this Repulse kit someday though.

[mifune]

Sorry. I must have forgotten how to use this thing. Is there really a Very Fire 1/350 HMS Renown in plastic coming?

[MartinJQuinn]

Sorry. I must have forgotten how to use this thing. Is there really a Very Fire 1/350 HMS Renown in plastic coming?

They announced it as a future release - along with a 1/350 Taiho an Vanguard - awhile back. They are slowly working their way through releases. I believe they've released both Salem and her sister in 1/350, and Cleveland is apparently on the way to distributors. So, hopefully this will actually happen. She'd be a real looker in 1/350.

[Joachim]

Dear friends,

my Model of HMS Renown is making a little progress recently, I am working on tha aft superstructure and main mast. Basic source is a little polish book, Profile Morskye, and English books.
Now I got stuck with the yard and the several halyards and arials. In "Anatomy of the Ship, HMS Hood" you can find a drawing of the yard with 4 arials attached, each with a halyard (13).
Does anybody of you know whether Renown had arial halyards at the main yard, too?
And if so, did the run down the entire mast or only tothe starfish platform?
Would there be arial halyards at the foremast,too?

Sorry, once again I have more questions than my books could answer. I �d be grateful for your support!

Best regards from Wetzlar, Germany

Joachim

[MartinJQuinn]

On the 79th anniversary of the demise of Repulse (and PoW), wondering if we'll see any of our fine sponsors in the 3D print space release a corrected aft superstructure for the Trumpeter kit? (hint hint) I know there is photo-etch sets that remedy this, but a 3D printed part would be most welcome.

[Zacharias]

What is considered the best PE set for 1/350 Repulse, would that be Lionroar or Flyhawk set?

[hj1985]

What is considered the best PE set for 1/350 Repulse, would that be Lionroar or Flyhawk set?

FlyHawk FH350023 (easy to buy)

One of modeller I know tried Flyhawk Repulse PE, the feedback is good.

Haven't known anyone trying Lionroar yet, cant comment on it.

Generally speaking, Flyhawk PE has a larger stock worldwide. It is hard to get Lionroar's stock these days

[Iceman 29]

HMS Repluse (1916) behind HMS Victory in 1925?

[Guest]

As built, were Renown�s bridge decks corticene?